I am still using Floquil RR colors that I stashed away years ago, but I recently got a 3D printed coker made of FUD. The instructions are to only use water based paint and to start with a primer. Since this thing wasn't cheap I don't want to ruin it in the painting process so I will go with that recommendation.
First, what would happen if I used an acrylic primer and then Floquil over top?
Second, can someone recommend a spray can of primer, prererably in black or gray, that would work so I don't need to set up the airbrush for the prime coat?
Rick
Rick,
I have no experience with Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD) but I have wargaming friends that do, and I reached out to them.
This information is what I have, and not based on my own hands on experience.
Thom and Rob both told me they clean the FUD surfaces with rubbing alcohol and rinse in distilled water. Distilled water might not be necessary where you are, but it is in Florida.
Both said they use Tamiya gray primer from a can, which does not surprise me, they use that stuff on everything.
Apparently FUD can have waxy build up, and they had different solutions for this. Thom said he uses warm dish detergent, Rob said he uses Simple Green.
Hopefully someone with hands-on experience themselves can give some confirmation or better advice.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hi there. I have used 3D prints for three HOn30 loco projects. After sanding the piece, I clean it with alcool. I then apply a light coat of regular auto primer. After it is fully cured (I use the sniff test...), I paint it with acrylics using an airbrush.
Simon
20200301_162115 - c on Flickr
Either primer from an automobile line (bigbox store brands, Rustoleum, etc...) OR Tamiya primer should do the trick. (Both seem pretty "sticky" from my experience.)
Once fully cured, it *should* be able to be painted with any paint you wish. (*Disclaimer* "Should be able" and "Absolutely no problem" are entirely different here. Your experience may vary from mine.)
Never airbrushed with Floquil myself, but I normally use Vallejo (acrylic) primer, Testors (rattlecan, now gone) or Tamiya Primer (Rattlecan) and no ill effects with either Modelflex (acrylic), thinned acrylic craft paints, Model Master/Testor's (enamel) or TruColor (acrylic/acetone like the old AccuPaints line) paints. (Only "reaction" I ever had was Testors Laquer based with Modelflex, but I think I rushed it before fully cured... It was 48 hrs, but very high humidity.)
So long as the primer is fully cured, I don't see where it would affect anything.
*If the 3D Printed FUD is "slippery", you may wish to try Createx Flexable Adhesion Promoter, acrylic based. I can say it works magic on flexable handrails and plastic freight truck sideframes.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I use Krylon or Rustoleum auto primer on everything, plastic, Zamac, brass, whatever. They are sold into the auto repair market, where the mechanic is pressed for time, and wants something that works on greasy auto parts. The stuff he paints may not be as clean as it could be, but the primer will stick anyhow. The primers will cover anything, even zebra stripes. And you can use anything for a top coat over them, Floquil, acrylic, water paint, lacquer, anything. I still have a stash of Floquil.
Surface prep is important. I do dish detergent (Dawn) and hot water. Scrub with an old toothbrush. Rinse well, dry thoroughly, like over night. Don't touch the clean surfaces with your bare hands. Use gloves.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
hbgatsf...First, what would happen if I used an acrylic primer and then Floquil over top?...
Well, acrylic paint is generally thinned with water, so I don't see any issues with that, but I'd definitely clean the item first - I don't have a suggestion for cleaning, as I'm not at all familiar with that "FUD"...reminds me of Elmer..."Be vewy, vewy quiet...I'm hunting wabbits!"
Allow the acrylic at least 24 hours to fully "cure", then, if you want to use your Floquil, apply it with an airbrush. I'd guess that if you apply the Floquil with a brush, you're more likely to lift or disturb the primer, and possibly the FUD, too.
Wayne
Thanks for all the feedback. I fully understand the need for thorough cleaning to remove the wax and oil residue from the manufacturing process. I am very glad to hear that regular primer is all that is needed. I was under the impression that a waterborne polymer was needed for the primer. I am very comfortable using Rustoleum.
Just remember to make sure you give enough time for the primer and floquil to off gas before each layer. That build up of solvent vapor penetrating the resin is what does the damage
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Rick (hbgatsf) - If you really want to try the waterborne polymer, due to the 3D Printer's reccommendation, that is exactly what the Vallejo Primer is.
Downside is you fire up your airbrush to prime.