cutting small sections of track (eg. 1in)

[Dave K]

I use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut my N gauge code 80 track.  Often the ties break away from the rails.  Is there a better way?

 

Thanks

[mbinsewi]

Not sure which brand of track you use, but Atlas sells a track assortment:

https://shop.atlasrr.com/p-1262-n-snap-track-assortment.aspx

Couldn't you use a dab of CA cement, and reattach the ties?  Being careful to maintain the proper track spacing.

I'm not sure if any of the availiable track nippers would give better results, but maybe worth a try.

Mike.

[dknelson]

Dave K

I use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut my N gauge code 80 track.  Often the ties break away from the rails.  Is there a better way?  

Thanks 

This can be an issue in HO too and in HO we have track laying tools from Ribbon Rail that essentially are rigid plastic with grooves cut into them to HO gauge, and you snap the tool over the track when cutting with a Dremel so that sideways forces don't pull or push the track so much that the plastic nubs holding them in place give way.   That is not what the tools were designed for but they work.  I think the original intent of one of the tools was to hold the track in place while soldering so that even if the ties melt a little, as they cool gauge will be retained

I am not aware of a similar track laying tool in N but Micro Engineering does make track gauges (3 point) for code 70, 55 and 40.  Meant for hand laying track but i wonder if they could do double duty even for larger code rail.  

Peco's N track laying templates which go between the rails might offer SOME protection but the best is something that holds the rail in place both inside and outside the rail.  

Another thought that strikes me - pure vaporware as I have not tried this -- but what if hobby clay was pushed down over the track which is to be cut so that its thickness and viscosity would hold the track in gauge and in place while the Dremel tool does its work?  Of course you might get metal bits into the clay.  

One thing I CAN say is that attempting to hold the rail in place with one hand while cutting with the Dremel with the other hand is likely to result in N gauge burn marks on that hand holding the rail - it conducts heat very well!

Dave Nelson

[DSchmitt]

[Overmod]

Dave K

I use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut my N gauge code 80 track.  Often the ties break away from the rails.  Is there a better way?

Not to be a besserwisser, but a small adage needs to be inserted into this discussion before alternatives are taken up -- are you 'letting the tool do the work'?

Horsing a Dremel disk can cause more issues than shattering brittle abrasive or overheating ties -- the lateral drag of 'too much feed' or the shock if the cutting edge catches or drags in the kerf might easily pop some of the attachment loose.  See if slowing down the rate of cut, or using the tool or hand piece differently to facilitate slow cuts and firm control over side force, might give you better results.

For short pieces I'd use a thin-kerf manual saw in some kind of miter box or jig arrangement; you might still use the Dremel to make the initial starting cuts in the railhead to 'get the party started' best.

[riogrande5761]

I'll be a besserwisser.  My Dremel works just fine.

I routinely cut short sections of rail with my Dremel and cutoff disk.  If the rail is a short piece, I can simply hold it with a pair of needle nose plyers.

Often I have to connect turnouts so the they fit a ladder well, and then with the turnouts in-place, I hold a piece of rail or track up to it.  Then mark or scratch it with an exacto blade precisely where it needs to be cut.  Then if the rail is a large enough piece as track I can hold it with one hand. I clip a heat sink to the rail near where it needs to be cut to keep ties from getting soft.  Make sure you have eye protection, then I cut off the rail at the mark.  If the piece of rail is small and no longer on a piece of track, I hold it securely with needle nose plyers.

There are all kinds of places I do this to get rail to fit in a yard.

Here you can see I am test fitting turnouts for my staging yard.  For everything to line up, there were gaps between the turnouts.  I had to custom cut and fit rail to connect them all together.  My trusty 40 year old Dremel and a pair of Xuron rail nippers can be seen as well as spring loaded heat sinks.

Most of them are now connected in this photo at the upper right of the picture:

N scale or HO, technique would be the same.

[Dave K]

Thanks all.

[Leroy Deubler]

Xuron rail cutter and a fine file will work best. Cut the rail and very little touch up is needed. The dremel tool cuts at an angle because of the motor's body and has a tendency to break ties as you stated. If Dremel is your tool of choice however, try using a bit of CA glue between the rail and ties before cutting.

[SeeYou190]

Dave K

Often the ties break away from the rails. Is there a better way?

Yes there is.

I cut my rails with a Mac Tools flush-cutting wire cutter. The Xuron tool is just fine. Cutting with pliers will have less damage. The flush cutters leave a near perfect end.

Then I use a tool like the one pictured below. Mine was made by MLR (I think), but Micro-Mark has something similar.

This tool holds the rails still while the cut ends are dressed with a fine file. I do not use it with a saw as pictured.

The good cutters followed by a fine file yield excellent results.

-Kevin