Hi all,
This is one of my favorite boxcars, a Funaro and Camerlengo model of a Reading XMp 36' double-sheathed boxcar. I built the model about 4-years ago and when the paint started blistering and coming off recently, I at first tried to just remove the paint that came off and repaint those areas but that made a mess of things so I just went ahead and stripped it by letting the model sit in 91% rubbing alcohol for a couple days. Some of the old paint and primer came off real easy, while other areas were super stubborn.
Some history of these cars, they were first built I think prior to WW1 and very few remained by the time of my 1953 modeling era, but when I saw these models I wanted one, and figured one from a neighboring railroad would be quite plausible. The model has K-brakes but Bettendorf trucks, a power hand-brake mechanism, and steel Youngstown (I think) doors. I wanted to go for a model with some upgrades over the years but to be running its last miles in its life.
First photo is when I first built it but before painting.
Second is when I thought I had the paint touched up and ready to do. I didn't at the time realize how extensive the paint blistering might be. I'll not impugn either Funaro or the paint maker, Tru-Color, I think all of that had been my doing in that I likely did not prepare the model for painting properly. When I do resin kits now, I wash major parts before building, and again after assembly but before priming. I know I washed at the time but may have not washed as thoroughly as I should have. Tru-Color is one of my favorite paint brands and is a staple for my PRR and Reading freight cars.
Here it is after I'd stripped, primed, and painted. So far so good.
After a coat of Tamiya Clear Flat, it came out looking like this. At first glance, I loved how muted the color had become but felt rather aghast seeing the primer show up in the wood grooves. What?!
Not as pronounced on this side. The gouges in the side were when I tried to remove some stubborn paint before priming and ended up gouging out some plastic. Oh well, maybe prototypical?
So what to do? I decided to try weathering it. First I did a wash with I think Model Master Oxide Red and a lot of water. Next, a lot of sooty black weathering power and some dry-brushed earth tone paint on the under frame.
Looks terible on your railroad, would look great on mine. Sure you don't want to start fresh. In reality, looks great.
Funny how some of the ones that give you more trouble then others turn out to be one of your favorite. Looks nice to me.
I think your weathering perfectly hides all the problems you had.
It looks great.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Thanks for making the rounds Dr!
Had I not read the post, I would have thought it was a tutorial on how to model a freight car. Great work. It serves as a guide for replicating a weathered boxcar.
Yes, your weathering nicely hides the problems you had. Nice job.
DEW
Thank you for the respones everyone. Though I've weathered many freight cars I still get a little intimidated by the process but always remember, to work in layers, building it up as I go. I wanted to do a heavily weathered car near the end of it's life and think I got it. My next photo series will be on a pair of Funaro and Camerlengo Reading GHd gondolas I'd built up and added homemade scrap loads. The model is basically stock except for P2K Bettendorf trucks, Intermountain Code88 wheels, Sergent couplers, Tichy stirrups, I think a Kadee or Tichy brakewheel, and Kadee airhoses. Paint was Tru-Color Reading Boxcar red, and the decals came with the kit. I also dry-brushed Polly-Scale Earth on the underframe and bottom edges of the sides and ends. Trucks and wheels got painted Tru-Color flat grimy black. I used Walthers Solva-Set to help the decals settle in the grooves on the model.
Alvie
Alvie, you did a great job on that boxcar!
Simon