Does anyone have an idea how to change the very small knuckle couplers ( can't really couple to anything) and change them over to more useable Kadee knuckle couplers?
The coupler box on the GG1, both ends is so small, I am not sure if I will have to rig some kind of a coupler box to make Kadees adaptable?
Kadee is a lot more than the typical #5 - they have couplers with much smaller mountings. Too soon for their suggested coupler repalcement chart to be updated, but looking at reviews and pictures it doesn't seem like the Bachmann couplers are anything speacial. And there are always the whisker couplers, which don't need that big flat spring which probably won't fit in the Bachmann coupler box.
I'd change them, simply because nothing works like a Kadee, and ALL plastic coupelrs are junk, but none of the reviews reported any issues with the Bachmann couplers coupling up - they are probably scale size, so smaller, but those work with 'regular size' knuckle couplers.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
A quick review of the Bachmann web site confirms what I thought. Bachmann does not even offer a semi scale version of the their EZ mate coupler, and the GG1 takes the standard coupler.
EZ mate couplers do have thin shanks and sometimes Kadee couplers are a tight in the Bachmann coupler pockets when you tighten the lid.
One solution is to use the Kadee wisker coupler and gently file the Kadee shank thinner.
Or, find a suitable small washer to shim the Bachmann cover plate.
But the Kadee 148 will work, possibly without those mods.
Sheldon
Here's the problem, the coupler on the GG1 doesn't move, has no moving parts, and just resembles a knuclkle coupler, and is completely one solid piece.
The coupler box is one solid piece and I have no idea how to remove it without damaging something.
I Googled this and came up without an answer. I looked on You Tube and can't find a thing on it.
As it is I can't couple any other coupler to it., and it is very small.
Has anyone modified one of these GG1's to install a Kadee coupler?
TheK4Kid Here's the problem, the coupler on the GG1 doesn't move, has no moving parts, and just resembles a knuclkle coupler, and is completely one solid piece. The coupler box is one solid piece and I have no idea how to remove it without damaging something. As it is I can't couple any other coupler to it., and it is very small. Has anyone modified one of these GG1's to install a Kadee coupler?
I would like to see a picture of this since I have seen Bachmann GG1's and they have regular Kadee style couplers?
Did you buy this new? I guess it is possible someone installed scale dummy couplers. And if they did it is possible the shank are too thick and the couplers don't swing because the shank is against the coupler box and cover.
Can you see the screw to the coupler box? You can look up the exploded diagram on Bachmann's web site.
It clearly shows a cover held on by a screw, standard procedure for Bachmann.
Removing the pony trucks first will make access easier.
Here is a review by one of our very own forum members - his Bachmann GG1 has Kadee compatible EZ Mate couplers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At7nUabNL70
Again, a picture or two would help.
Hi guys,
After seeing the $300+ prices that BLI units were fetching on Ebay, I decided to take a chance and buy a Bachmann GG1 a while back for my NY to FL SCL passenger trains.
I've had my biases against Bachmann's quality, for years, so I was pleasantly surprised at how heavy and very smooth running this unit is. I ran her on a friend's layout and it had no trouble pulling a 10-car long Walthers passenger train easily.
Although the Pennsy Keystone badges have the wrong color for the lettering (should be white, not yellow) overall I like this unit. I plan on replacing the couplers with the whisker versions, likely shelf type.
I hope that these photos of the coupler box are helpful:
BTW: It's true that these units can operate on catenary supplied power. The switch is "inside" of the locomotive.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I bought one of these GG1s a few years back and the rear coupler didn't even make it once around the layout on its maiden voyage. I turned the engine around and used it in reverse for a few days, until I had time to replace both couplers with Kadees #58s. These work fine and seem to be interoperable with everything.
Since these engines don't support the normal momentum CVs, I reduced Vhigh by 50%. I don't need or want that much speed anyway, but doing that eliminates the jackrabbit starts that the default configuration comes with.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.