I just bought a vintage Streak wood kit. The instructions say to seal the wood before assembling. What do you guys recommend using. Would sanding sealer be appropriate? Also, what is a good substitute for Walthers Goo? I'd like to use something I can find in a hardware store since I haven't been able to locate a local hobby shop. Thanks. John
John,
Yes sanding sealer will work. I also brace the inside pretty heavily to prevent warping later whenever possible.
I don't have a good sub for Walthers goo. If strength is an issue I use 5 minute epoxy. If good grab is needed I'll go with silicone seal or Aileens tacky glue depending on the application.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
to ther Model Railroader discussion forums. Your first few posts are delayed by the moderation staff, but this will end soon. Please stick around and become part of our conversations.
About your questions:
The instructions say to seal the wood before assembling. Would sanding sealer be appropriate?
I use Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner.
What is a good substitute for Walthers Goo?
It is not a substitute for Goo, but I use yellow wood glue for assembling wooden kits.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I’m not familiar with a Streak wood kit and a Google Search didn’t help either.If it is a structure kit I don’t seal the wood on my scratch build structures. I use basswood for scratch building and use Crafters Acrylic paints for color. I like to see the wood grain in my wooden buildings and sealing the wood would do away with that.I have several Craftsman structure kits on my layout that are 25 to 30 years old and never sealed that still look great.
I use Aleenes Wood glue for all my scratch building.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
That should have been SILVER Streak! That's what happens when you type in a hurry. I thought sanding sealer was the same stuff. I priced the GOO from Walthers but it must be considered hazardous, the shipping was crazy. John
RR_MelI’m not familiar with a Streak wood kit and a Google Search didn’t help either.
Perhaps he left out the Silver in Silver Streak?
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/262718.aspx
3M makes a handy weatherstrip adhesive that is a kissin'-cousin to Walthers Goo. Available in Black or Yellow at any hardware or auto parts store or Big Box home center. Amazon, too.
The Canadian white glue, PVA known as WeldBond is very handy for assembling wood kits and it does pretty good on wood-to-metal fixing, too.
Regards, Ed
gmpullman3M made a handy weatherstrip adhesive that is a kissin'-cousin to Walthers Goo.
Don't use Permatex Weatherstrip Adhesive... it is terrible stuff... keep it away from your model workshop. It is also available in black and yellow.
If you ever want to seal an air box gasket on a two-stroke Detroit so it will never leak, it is great!
EdI remember the Silver Streak cars from the 50s were wood. I had several from early on that I got from H&H Hobbies in El Paso. I just didn’t put it together that he was referring to Sliver Streak. I have several of their later plastic cars that I bought after we moved to Bakersfield in the late 80s. Thanks Ed.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I use ACC and never seal, never a problem.
I don't buy "sanding sealer" Presumably you want to paint the exterior of your model. Good. Then you want to paint the interior to prevent warping lest the unpainted side absorb more moisture than the painted side. Paint both sides and the piece will not warp. While you are at it might as well paint the four edges too.
To bond the wood pieces together, yellow carpenter's glue, Titebond, is best. It will give a bond as strong as the wood itself. You need a good fitting joint, clamped while the glue dries, and clean of paint, and you will achieve a solid joint. Carpenter's glue needs over night to dry. For attaching bass wood detail parts, window frames and the like, cellulose cement, Duco cement, is strong enough and dries in seconds. For attaching cast pot metal detail parts to a wood model, you can use Goo. Pliobond is about the same stuff as Goo and many hardware stores carry it. Superglue (ACC) is easier to use and easier to keep where it belongs than Goo.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Scalecoat offers a sprayable sanding sealer in a rattle can. It is the best solution I have ever found for wood kits, and it makes a good base for painting and decaying the model. I apply it after surface sanding and before painting, and I like the finish that results.
http://mprailway.blogspot.com
"The first transition era - wood to steel!"
I have built many scratch built wood models.
I have Never sealed anything. Only paint/stain the outsides, with craft paints.
I do not have any issues with warping. The right brace in the right place will prevent warping.
Why do you feel the need to seal ? other then someone told you to.
Any white or yellow glue will work. The yellow is water proof,and drys harder, harder to clean up squeze outs. I use Arlene's
I want to thank everyone for there quick replies to my questions. It looks like I already have the adhesives I need and if I decide to seal the wood first Sherwin-Williams is right up the road.John
Hi JBD,
Welcome to the forums!!
I use cheap gray automotive primer to seal the pieces of a wood kit. I have never had a problem with warping. Of course, as others have said, proper internal bracing is essential too.
I note that several modellers have stated that they don't seal their models at all and they have had no problems. In my case, the layout is in an insulated but unheated garage so I'm reluctant to take chances by not sealing things. I figure that it doesn't cost much, it's quick, and it can't do any harm.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
YMMV, but I have found that sealing the wood improves the finish, and takes less paint. I didn't do it initially, but found that when I didn't, the difference between the finish on the wood and other components that were made of different materials (e.g., the metal roof ends and car ends on old Red Ball coach kits) looked noticeably different. Sealing the wood took care of that problem.