I have a P2K geep that I believe is suffering from cracked gears. It runs fine for the most parts, but when backing a string of cars into a siding, it vibrates/stutters. Kinda like teeth chattering on a cold day if that makes sense. I've seen people say the trucks are clones of athearn BB trucks. I have a BB gp38 chassis that I can steal the gears out of, will those be the same?
They should work.
I have gone to using the pre-assembled Athearn axle assemblies. The make the repair quick and easy. Plus, you get nice shiny new style Genesis wheels.
For about $20.00 you get enough to do 1 1/2 locomotives.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Ringo,
Walthers also makes a set of replacement wheelsets for those. And I just checked and they happen to be a $1 off regular price today:
https://www.walthers.com/replacement-geared-driver-assembly-diesel-wheelset-pkg-2-for-early-proto-2000-r-bl-fa-gp7-9-18-20-30-60-proto-1000-tm-f3
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Nope. The P2K GP38-2s do not have Athearn cloned trucks. Therefore, they do not have the cracked gear problem.
The problems you are encountering are probably not gear related.
That's not to say that somehow the gears aren't cracked on yours, but the that is not a widespread problem with that loco because its a totally different design.
Edit: Notice the numbers in Tom's link above. No 38-2. All of those other GPs have the athearn cloned trucks, the cracked gear issue, and the noted remedy.
- Douglas
DoughlessNope. The P2K GP38-2s do not have Athearn cloned trucks.
Well, I stand corrected then. Good to know.
I don't own a Proto-2000 GP38-2, but I incorrectly assumed they would use the same Athearn cloned drive system, which in spite of the cracked gear issue, is a good solid drive.
Thanks... always learning something.
Drop the axles out, and check the center gear, with a magnafying glass, if needed, and if they are cracked, you'll see it.
Also, once the axles are out of the loco, take each one, wheel in each hand, and try and turn the wheels. The wheel on the cracked side will turn easy, as the axle is slipping in the gear.
I don't have any P2K GP's, or I'd compare the center axles with Athearns. Not sure if they have the same number of teeth, and are the same diameter.
Mike.
My You Tube
Doughless Nope. The P2K GP38-2s do not have Athearn cloned trucks. Therefore, they do not have the cracked gear problem.
Wonder what this guys proplem is then? Very jerky then at high speeds it wines like if you blew into a coyote call real slow. How do I get the video to post here without having to click the little button?
How did I guess this GP9 I just got in the mail today would have all 4 gears cracked? oh well I guess I will use the axle gears from the athearn unit on the GP9
Hard to say just by looking at the video.
All trucks should have a cover on the bottom that can be pried up with a thin screwdriver. Be careful with the tabs if there are any. You will need to do this to swap out any gears. You'll notice the gears on the 38-2 don't look the same as those Athearns gears and axles, especially notice that they don't have those square brass bearings that Athearn uses for electrical pickup.
Maybe they are cracked. Doubt it, but if so, I have no idea where to get replacements for that loco.
To the OP: Did you try removing the shell to get a better look at the jerkiness? The cracked axle was very obvious in my Proto GP7 - both visually and audibly. And, if you can't find the correct axles for your GP38-2, one option might be to pick up a replacement chassis on eBay. Course, I would confirm with the seller first if there is an issue with the unit before purchasing it.
tstage To the OP: Did you try removing the shell to get a better look at the jerkiness? The cracked axle was very obvious in my Proto GP7 - both visually and audibly. And, if you can't find the correct axles for your GP38-2, one option might be to pick up a replacement chassis on eBay. Course, I would confirm with the seller first if there is an issue with the unit before purchasing it. Tom
I have not yet. I will after I get the GP9 running smooth.
Why not just fix the cracked gears?
For future reference...
Hope that helps, Ed
Walthers does have these in stock, and on sale:
https://www.walthers.com/replacement-drive-axle-gears-pkg-6
rbturner Why not just fix the cracked gears?
I did on the GP9. Not sure what the issue with the GP38-2 is
mbinsewi Walthers does have these in stock, and on sale: https://www.walthers.com/replacement-drive-axle-gears-pkg-6 Mike.
Thanks mike, I think I will order some of those. The athearn ones I stole from the BB chassis seemed too tight. I think I need to bore the gears out a bit
gmpullman For future reference... Hope that helps, Ed
I saw this video the other day although it does not seem to have the same issues. maybe I'll give it another watch today. Thanks!
Thanks Ed. I would've never thought of a crack in the worm gear fitting. Something to check out!
update: the GP38 went back into it's box and will now sit on the shelf till the layout is finished.
The GP9 had 4 split gears so I pulled the axles and replaced them with the athearn ones. As soon as it got power it buzzed but did not want to move. I pulled the axles again and realized I pushed them togeather too hard and the bearings were stuck. I pulled them apart just a fuzz and it rolled smoothly. Then I reconnected the drive shafts and put the caps back on, tested it, and........ no power. Not even a slight buzz. Great
What I thought would be a 5 min job turned into an evening and morning. Oh well hopefully I can get it back up and running tonight and finally finish the layout. If not, It will join the GP38 on the shelf
Ringo58Then I reconnected the drive shafts and put the caps back on, tested it, and........ no power. Not even a slight buzz. Great
Is there any chance that this could be as simple as a popped breaker on your power pack?
Just hoping for an easy solution for you!
SeeYou190 Ringo58 Then I reconnected the drive shafts and put the caps back on, tested it, and........ no power. Not even a slight buzz. Great Is there any chance that this could be as simple as a popped breaker on your power pack? Just hoping for an easy solution for you! -Kevin
Ringo58 Then I reconnected the drive shafts and put the caps back on, tested it, and........ no power. Not even a slight buzz. Great
I tried that first with my SD7. She crept like a snail. Not a power pack issue :(
Ringo58I tried that first with my SD7. She crept like a snail. Not a power pack issue.
I did not think you would miss something that simple, but I was hoping it could be easily resolved.
Good luck, and don't get too frustrated.
mbinsewi Thanks Ed. I would've never thought of a crack in the worm gear fitting. Something to check out! Mike.
The cracked ball (and cup) of driveline universal from NWSL does not surprise me. I realized some time ago that bore in cup/ball for 2 mm shaft is too small for a 2 mm shaft. I use a reamer for 2 mm to widen a bore a bit, and then if necesarry, use a 2K glue (or just CA glue) to fix cup/ball on a shaft. It is better that fit is not tight, then too tight because in that case, cup/ball will crack.
Furthermore, if bore in ball is not prepared that way, in many cases it happened that ball did not glide in cup easily, a resistance could be felt - because ball is pressed too much on shaft, it expands because of that and therefore does not fit lightly in cup.
Hrvoje
SeeYou190 Ringo58 I tried that first with my SD7. She crept like a snail. Not a power pack issue. I did not think you would miss something that simple, but I was hoping it could be easily resolved. Good luck, and don't get too frustrated. -Kevin
Ringo58 I tried that first with my SD7. She crept like a snail. Not a power pack issue.
I was this morning. goodthing I had to go to work and regain my thought process. I am going to give it another shot at lunch
Spalato68The cracked ball (and cup) of driveline universal from NWSL does not surprise me. I realized some time ago that bore in cup/ball for 2 mm shaft is too small for a 2 mm shaft.
I have not had much problem with the NWSL universal kits. I do not think I have ever used the 2mm size.
However, the drive shafts and balls that came with the Athearn Diesel Repower kits from NWSL were way too tight on the shafts and had to be enlarged slightly.
Ones still jerky and the other still won't do anything. I gave it another hour on my lunch break but at this point I'm shelving them for the time being. Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Will either add to this thread or start a new one when it's time for them to get up and running.
I'm glad I bought plenty of spares. My 2mm "horned ball" universals split about half the time. I finally soaked them in very hot water before slipping them on the shafting.
IMG_5946_fix by Edmund, on Flickr
Maybe the new owners at NWSL have a better manufacturing process or improved material.
Regards, Ed
Lastspikemike I recall Athearn makes two sets of replacement gears presumably with different numbers of teeth. Did you get the "other" set by mistake? I have ATH 60024 labelled for SD 40 and SD40-2 (which is why they come in 6 packs for six axle diesels). I can't find an Athearn listing specific to the GP 7/9 model.
I recall Athearn makes two sets of replacement gears presumably with different numbers of teeth. Did you get the "other" set by mistake?
I have ATH 60024 labelled for SD 40 and SD40-2 (which is why they come in 6 packs for six axle diesels). I can't find an Athearn listing specific to the GP 7/9 model.
I lined up the ones from the gp38 chassis to the split gp9 ones and they looked the same. The teeth lined up perfectly. I'll order some in a few weeks when I decide to revisit this issue. Thanks for the heads up!