So I'm assuming this topic has been raised here before, but I'd appreciate your favorite approaches to rusting up corrugated sheet for roofs. It's a space I have yet to try as my previous scratch built structures have had wooden shingles, ashphalt or tar paper.
I've worked with a lot of pastels, brushed and airbrushed paints as well as played with some washes. But I know there are some multi step applications of primer, iron particles and some sort of activators - but I have zero experience with such technique.
Any thoughts on favorite approaches to rusting up metal sheet for say a barn roof?
Thanks!
I have used a product called Archer Echant. It's used to make circutboards. I got mine at Radio Shack 20 some odd years ago, so good luck there.
What you do is fill a small bowl with the stuff, (wear gloves and a mask, this stuff is CORROSIVE ! ) dip your part in the enchant for anywhere between 5 to 20 seconds. DO NOT LEAVE PART IN FOR MORE THAN 25 SECONDS !!!!! Your part will dissolve !
The longer it "soaks" the more rusty it gets, even to the point of jagged holes in it.
Let me know if you find some. I used up my bottle years ago.
Rust...... It's a good thing !
I've done some of these. For corrugated roofing, I start by spraying it with rattle can silver, and then cover that with Dul-Coat. That gives the surface some "tooth" for weathering powders. I use rust and brown powders, and maybe a bit of black, sealed with another spray of Dul-Coat.
I've also used a product called Instant Rust. This is a colloidal suspension of small iron particles. That is first painted on, and then the included activation so!ution painted on after the iron dries. It gives quite a rusty appearance. It's more usually found in art supply places rather than hobby shops.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Since there is no lettering on these pieces, I paint the entire piece a rust color, then I use the airbrush to spray on a dark grey color, leaving some the rust showing through. I finish the job with some drybrushing of rust, and apply an overall black wash.
Simon
Micro engineering sells the acid they use to weather thier rail. I have used that. It is another etchant acid.
Anybody ever try viniger?
Shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Some neat effects can be had by etchant dipping. I also use the Radio Shack brand PBC etchant solution. Like Little Timmy says; use proper PPE, and don't leave the the panel in the etchant too long or it disappears. Quickly transferring the panel from etchant into water halts the chemical reaction. Plan on losing a few panels in getting the hang of it. A cool dilapidated effect is pulling the panel from the etchant just as it begins to dissolve and drop it into the water. After etching the pieces can be enhanced by dry brushing with grey paint and careful application of pastels and or weathering powders.
Or skip the etchant and paint the panels grey, then treat with a wash of choice, followed by application of pastels, powders and or pigments.
Regards, Peter
Thank you Peter, I totally forgot to add the dipping in water stage in my post.
Yea...dip the part in water to stop the process!
I have also used this stuff on other metal parts (exhaust pipes , old machinery, ect) and with practice you can get " real world" looking results. It doesn't just color the part, it gives it a texture. Enlarge Peter's first picture and just look at all that wonderful rust!!!
( Now...... I need a tetanus shot ...)
Do not forget the 'nail heads'.
I use a blunt pin or a pounce wheel with a straight edge to make the 'nail heads'/dimples. I make the dimples on the backside (walls) or underside (roofs) in the valleys of the metal sheeting before weathing.
When viewed from the outside, these dimples will look like 'nail heads' on the ridges. You can make rust streaks flowing down from these dimples. Look at photos or go measure a building and you will get the spacing of the 'nails'.
It depends on my mood what weathering technique I use.
I have used the Radio Shack PCB etchant (FERRIC CHLORIDE). I have one 16oz. bottle left yet.
From the Big Box Hobby store, The MODERN MASTERS metal effects rust is a three part process, brush on 'primer', brush on 'iron' and last, the spray on 'rust activator'. $21.99. pricey.
I have used no less then 5 different manufactures of powders, plus chalks, oil paints and natural rust. In my old days I scraped artist chalks and pastels. I do not remember buying ready made powders in a container until the last maybe three years. But now everybody has something in a powder/pigment.
I have used an Air brush and hand dry brushed with bottle paint.
I've not used the etchant, but painted the roof on this stockpen white, then airbrushed it to suggest rust bleeding from the ends of the panels...
The Hoffentoth Bros. have coal and ice outlets in most of my on-line towns, and most of them are fenced-off with corrugated panels...
Not too much deterioration...a little rust and some dirt.
Likewise for these recently built structures...some rust-coloured paint and a little dirt and Dullcote...
...and not much going on at GERN Industries, either...
Wayne
Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen - I will be trying each of them out.
The model pictures y'all shared are really nice. Hope to get to that level someday
I am building a fence / wall with 5/8" corrugated nails which comes out to be 5' high in HO scale. I am weathering them by putting them on my painting table outside of my train building and letting nature do it's thing. They are rusting quite well.