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Next problem--putting a decoder in one of these.

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  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Next problem--putting a decoder in one of these.
Posted by SpaceMouse on Thursday, January 13, 2005 12:01 AM


My daughter took the 4-8-4 that I gave her to the local MRR club and ran it around on channel 00 on a Digitrax UT for about an hour and a half before she got bored. She wanted to help with the building projects.

Anyway, it really needs DCC. (Sound ould be cool.) First, has anyone put DCC in one of these and how hard was it? Any special problems? And second, any suggestions for a decoder. I think my club might have bought a bunch for $15.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Along the Murphy Branch
  • 1,410 posts
Posted by dave9999 on Thursday, January 13, 2005 12:08 AM
One of these?? Who is the maker? It looks like an IHC, am I right. If so, it will require some
soldering, as IHC is not DCC ready. You will need to isolate the motor from the frame and
run the wires to the tender. There should be plenty of room for the decoder in the tender.

If you give some more info, it helps to answer the question. Good luck. Dave
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Posted by SpaceMouse on Thursday, January 13, 2005 12:21 AM
Bachman Plus Not Spectrum. Retails at $112 but common at around $75. Runs really smooth. The club memebers were impressed.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Thursday, January 13, 2005 7:49 AM
Putting a decoder into Bachmann Plus models is extremely difficult, but not impossible. I would suggest that you find someone at that club who knows how to install decoders and ask them to help you. If you can learn how to put a decoder into that one by watching them or having them coach you as you do the work, you should be able to put a decoder into just about anything else. If Bachmann made that model anything like the older SP Daylight steam engine, the drive rods and wheels must all be taken off, so the frame halves can be separated to get at the motor and isolate it; then a location for the decoder must be milled out, or wires have to be added between the locomotive and tender so the decoder can be placed there.
  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 13, 2005 10:33 AM
[#ditto] DON'T TRY THIS BY YOURSELF. After all it's not your loco and the owner (read daughter) will not understand that dumbo (read dad) was in over his head. I've installed probably close to fifty decoders and this is not the one to start with. If one of the guys in the club will watch you put it in, or put it in and let you watch, that's the best way for this problem. Your daughter will enjoy this loco immensley after the work is done.

After you've done one or two of these then you'll be ready for SOUND. She'll want that also, so be ready.

I have been keeping up with your questions and am very pleased with the progress you are making. Keep up the good work.

Have a good day
Bob
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Posted by SpaceMouse on Thursday, January 13, 2005 12:19 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by TEFFY

[#ditto] DON'T TRY THIS BY YOURSELF. After all it's not your loco and the owner (read daughter) will not understand that dumbo (read dad) was in over his head. I've installed probably close to fifty decoders and this is not the one to start with. If one of the guys in the club will watch you put it in, or put it in and let you watch, that's the best way for this problem. Your daughter will enjoy this loco immensley after the work is done.


The biggest thing I worry about is the fact that I can't solder worth a sh--darn. I admit my ignorance in what is involved, but i've worked on power tools and guns. But if I can't solder...

Then again, I figure I'll learn how by the time the track is wired.

QUOTE: After you've done one or two of these then you'll be ready for SOUND. She'll want that also, so be ready.


We're all ready for sound. My E7 came with sound, but my daughters 0-4-0 with DCC does not have sound. My 2-6-0, DCC ready, and my son's Hogwarts will have to have sound. My wife is beginning to figure out that I'm spending too much on this stuff. These things will have to start getting noisy one engine at a time as if by magic.

QUOTE: I have been keeping up with your questions and am very pleased with the progress you are making. Keep up the good work.

Have a good day
Bob


Now if I can just get a layout going.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Northeast Houston
  • 576 posts
Posted by mcouvillion on Thursday, January 13, 2005 6:41 PM
SpaceMouse,

What is that on Lil Guy? Does he have a toothache? Did I miss something?

Oh, by the way, if you take the Hogwart's Express apart, prepare to invest some time. On the driver's side, there is a rod off the valve gear (reversing lever???) that extends into the shell. It is a bear to remove, and tougher to re-install properly. Just to let you know beforehand.

Mark C.
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Thursday, January 13, 2005 9:16 PM
It is NOT difficult to put DCC in a Bachmann Plus 4-8-4 steamer.

See: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/sbhgs4.htm

Yours is no different.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Northeast Houston
  • 576 posts
Posted by mcouvillion on Thursday, January 13, 2005 9:33 PM
Yeah, I put a decoder in an SP GS-4 4-8-4 Warbaby and it isn't that hard. The biggest thing is isolating the two frame halves from any connections you don't want to accidentally make, and figuring out how to do the headlight. If you have a smoke generator, just leave it wired as original. It will always be ON, so you'll have to keep smoke juice in it. No need to get the tender involved, as it does not pick up power anyway. I think I used a Digitrax DH-123, but I need to go back and put a better decoder in with the Gyra Light in place. It was a quicky job to get the decoder in before a GATS show, so I did not worry about the lights too much.

The other thing is where to put all of the wires. I used the Digitrax harness and used 1/8" heatshrink tubing to hold the wires where I wanted them. Don't shrink the tubing, just use it as a sleeve. Shove the sleeve of wires between the frame halves. The decoder will fit on the frame halves about where the steam dome or sand dome is. I pair up the wires that go to common places (orange and gray, braided gently, to the motor; red and black to the frame halves, white, blue, and yellow to the lights). By braiding them gently, I can control where they go better. Figure out where the wires need to go before cutting any of them. Use the harness so that the decoder is out of the picture until everything else is done.

Depending on your confidence level, you might be able to do it. Don't get in a hurry and check often for shorts. Make sure the little insulating spacers between the frame halves are all in place. Use a good quality electrical tape in any place you are unsure of. I make small strips of electrical tape by scoring the tape with an Xacto blade to the size and shape I need, then peel it off and place it with the tip of the Xacto blade. Don't press too hard or you'll go through more than one layer.

Good Luck.

Mark C.

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