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STEWART HOBBIES BALDWIN VO-1000

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STEWART HOBBIES BALDWIN VO-1000
Posted by UnionPacific8444 on Sunday, July 26, 2020 7:37 AM

I saw this loco at a shop today, and it was sold almost brand new without the handrails and stuff attached but included at about $60. I do have a Bowser Baldwin VO-1000, and it looks very detailed and runs well, but the handrails are very fragile and they easily snap apart and break off, and I also had some trouble applying them on the loco. I`ve heard that the Bowser loco is based on the model produced by Stewart Hobbies, and they do look similar. Is a Stewart Hobbies Baldwin VO-1000 worth buying? If so, is it hard to apply the handrails on the loco? Thank you.

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Posted by Afdahl Flats on Sunday, July 26, 2020 8:18 AM

I've had one for a couple of years now and it still runs very smoothly. The handrails are not hard to apply, I don't think I even used a tweezers for mine... They haven't broken off and I am frequently picking it up off the tracks. Hope this helps

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Posted by tstage on Sunday, July 26, 2020 9:38 AM

The older Stewart line was acquired by Bowser years ago. The handrails are made of softer plastic and are not difficult to apply.  The handgrabs, however, may be made of a more brittle plastic but should hold up because they are shorter.

The Stewart shell will have good detailing but probably not quite as nice as the newer Bowser shells.  Both my Stewart VO-660 & VO-1000 switchers are very smooth runners with either the Cannon or Buehler motors.

At $60, I'd snatch one up, if I needed another one.

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by Heartland Division CB&Q on Sunday, July 26, 2020 10:17 AM

This is my Stewart VO-1000 which I have owned for many years. Included was optional exhaust manifold with four tall stacks which was prototypically correct for certain Burlington units. It was not difficult to install this detail. Handrails were not dificult. 

It is a quallity made model, and mine has many years of operation with no problems.

 

 

GARRY

HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR

EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU

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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, July 26, 2020 2:41 PM

 I have a couple of the Stewart ones, pre-Bowser. Definitely worth it. I picked up one of the sound-equipped chassis that Bowser sold and thus converted one to DCC+sound, the other I just installed a motor-only decoder in. I've got a mix of varios model Baldwin switchers - and I could use a few more. An older Stewart one or a newer Bowser branded one - they're all good. Recently passed on a Baldwin road switcher on eBay because none of the modeler-installed parts were with it, no handrails, etc. Shame, the seller wasn;t sure what he had, thought it was an Athearn. If it was complete, I wouldn't have said anythign and just bid on it hopign the incorrect labelling kept people from finding it, since it was missing parts and I had no interest, I notified the seller that it wasn't an Athearn loco, but a Stewart.

                                      --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by BigDaddy on Sunday, July 26, 2020 3:00 PM

I've got a Bowser V 1000, haven't broken any handrails yet.  I love mine too, and my Stewart F3AB.  We should start a show me your Bowser thread, I would, but mine is packed up.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

By the Chesapeake Bay

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Posted by UnionPacific8444 on Sunday, July 26, 2020 6:35 PM

Thanks everyone! I may go for a buyBig Smile

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Posted by tankertoad135 on Wednesday, July 29, 2020 10:27 AM

I have a version of that lokey and she runs beautifully.Cowboy

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Posted by UnionPacific8444 on Friday, July 31, 2020 6:36 PM

I'm really thankful for your help and advice, but the loco was sold out when I looked a few days ago..

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Posted by rrebell on Sunday, August 2, 2020 1:51 PM

There are always plenty on e-bay, looking for DCC ready one to replace a dc only one.

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Posted by tstage on Sunday, August 2, 2020 2:44 PM

Converting either the VO-660 or -1000 to DCC is an easy conversion, since they both come with a 8-pin NMRA socket.  It's just plug 'n play.

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, August 2, 2020 3:41 PM

 The really early original Stewart ones weren't though, they used an Athearn BB derived chassis. Later Stewart and the Bowser ones have the plug.

 I have pictures of doing one of mine, I changed the orange colored LEDs for Yelo-Glo, so with the lights off, the headlight didn't look orange. 

                                              --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by rrebell on Sunday, August 2, 2020 11:11 PM

tstage

Converting either the VO-660 or -1000 to DCC is an easy conversion, since they both come with a 8-pin NMRA socket.  It's just plug 'n play.

Tom

 

Not mine.

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Posted by Overmod on Monday, August 3, 2020 5:42 AM

rrinker
I have pictures of doing one of mine, I changed the orange colored LEDs for Yelo-Glo, so with the lights off, the headlight didn't look orange. 

Note that you can do much the same thing by cutting off  the end of the orange LED package (which is just plastic; the actual LED is the tiny cubical speck where the molded-in wires come together) and solvent-weld on a suitably-shaped clear (or otherwise-tinted) lens.  If you want you can make this in two pieces with a simulated reflector (half-silvered) and bulb between, and get prototype appearance when off and golden glow when on if you don't want to do fine electrical work.

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Posted by rrinker on Monday, August 3, 2020 8:25 AM

 On these locos, they use a VERY clear light pipe for both the headlight and the rear light, so you can easily see in. Stock, the whole thing looks orange. The YeloGlo LEDs are clear cases with a small square for the emitting part. Viewed through the lens on the loco, it looks like a light fixture with a bulb sitting int he middle, though close up it's a square bulb, not round. 

 There's no fine electrical work involved - it's not even soldered on. There are two tabs front and rear, the LEDs are held with plastic clips into the front of the hood and above the cab roof. All I had to do was bend the leads of the new LED to match the original.

                                --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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