Requesting Feedback on the new Peco HO "American style " turnouts and tracks.

[AntonioFP45]

Hello Crew!

I've these at my LHS and they look Very Impressive! [8D]

I'm finally at the stage where I'm ready to buy trackage for my new layout. I was debating on Shinohara and Atlas but this new Peco Code 83 line looked very realistic to me.

The one factor that really caught my attention is that the turnout frogs are deeper the the competition, allowing deep flanges. (My Bachmann Metros have deep wheel flanges and due to the skinny diamater of the axles that fit the truck housings, replacement wheel sets on the market don't fit, so I'm stuck with them.)

However, I've learned not to go "ga-ga" and buy quantities of an item unless I hear or read the pros and cons. Pricewise, how does it compare to Atlas and Shinohara? Is it easy to solder jumper wires to the rails? Are these tracks fragile? Is the flex track easy to work with?

I appreciate your input, Thank you![:)][:D][8D][;)][C):-)][4:-)][tup]

[Anonymous]

Also which should you use for DCC application?
Thanks,
Mark
http://webusers.warwick.net/~u1015590/

[novacoach]

I have got some in October and it is down and wired and runs well. I hope these comments help: -
I particularly like the drop wire pre-soldered to the frog.
I personally tend to feed to the rail joiners soldered pre-installation but have succesfully soldered to their nickel silver rail before.
It seems a good product and I have always liked the Peco wiring convention i.e. only the route is fed.
I have live frogs wired for a frog feed from my SEEP point motors but not DCC but the instructions are there if you need them. I know of GB modellers who have used the Code 75 for DCC without following the instructions.
Appearance is great (and makes their Code 100 look like Triang Hornby Super 4 for any aged Brits out there). I'm told that one of the track guys at Peco is a keen US modeller.
Can not comment on cost comparison as based here in UK.
I went in "big" and had 8 switches and 6 lengths at once for a small layout but very pleased.

Chris
Modelling New England in the Old one...

[Anonymous]

That is very nice, but can you get Big engines and small (really small) engines over them without any problems? (read slow speed)

[AntonioFP45]

NovaChris,

Thanks so much. You made me think about something regarding jumpers. I was wondering if I could get away with using the railjoiners that already come with the wires attached to them. I was concerned that this track might be "fragile" compared to the Atlas and could easily break. (Yes, I'm one of those guys that when it comes to soldering, I'm a klutz!)[:0][:p]

I hope more people chime in, but I feel a little better now about going for the Peco! For industrial sidings, I'll sitll likely using the Code 75 from Walthers.

Markie,

I clicked on your link. I really like your layout! It's a shame you're dissassembling it. I hope you'll be building another one! I clicked on the "Overview" picture and now I'm using it as my computer's "Background Picture". [8D][:D]

[novacoach]

Antonio
It's dead easy to solder 3-5" wires on the Peco joiners before they go anywhere near the layout - I set up and solder (with flux of course - it took me awhile to get that bit right) as many as I need before I lay track and when I'm happy with the track configuration and everything is cut and filed I insert the wired joiners and drop the wires through holes I have already drilled with a small bit beforehand
- and by the way the Peco C75 is the same bottom profile so the C75 rail can be slotted in to the Peco ties if you want a lower profile (.And the rail joiners are the same too!)

Good luck

Chris

[AntonioFP45]

O.K, Novacoach.

I'll give it a shot! I'll practice on some older Peco track that I have.

Thanks!

[jpryke]

The new PECO C-83 track, is basically the same as PECO has made for years, but the height of the rail now matches the NMRA C-83 standard. Having used PECO
C-100 track and switches for all of the in-pavement trackwork on the Union Freight Urban Switching Layout (see MR issues of 9/00 - 12/00) I have found that the biggest advantage of this manufacturer's turnouts is the "sprung" points that snap into either straight or chrved position tightly, so that derailments can't occur. Inaddition, there are small phosphor bronze "wipers" which slide under the stock rails to feed current to the points without the need for separate contacts. PECO has had this feature for at least 20 years, and to the best of my knowledge it has been replecated on their new C-83 turnouts. The rest of their line is pretty standard (the flex track is comparable to other leading brands - Atlas, Walthers, etc.

On the Union Freight, where the PECO turnouts are totally embedded in pavement, we have a small slot in the pavement right above the throwbar. The throwbar, in turn, has a hole in its center. Therefore, by poking a pointed, bamboo skewer through the pavement slot into the throwbar hole the switch can be easily thrown. The spring forces the points to stay tight against the stock rail, and the bronze wipers guarentee good electrical contact. Since the switch can not be adjusted without tearing up the pavement, it is critical that the point operate flawlessly. In the 4 1/2 years since we put the Union Freight module into service as part of my New Haven layout, the in-pavement, PECO switches have operated flawlessly without any derailments or poor electric contact. I have never seen equivalent reliability from any other track manufacturer.

[novacoach]

Hi all
I hardly feel "worthy" disagreeing with Mr Pryke! ( I have your DVD and have well-worn and appreciated copies of the Union Freight articles and your associated urban book )
I can confirm that the C83 does not have the wipers - and benefits from wiring the frogs via an auxiliary switch on the motor - and is a completely different geometry - the sleeper - sorry guys - "ties" are significantly smaller and finer than the C75 and C100 - both fine products that they are.
I agree about the reliability though!
regards from across the Pond
Chris

[Pruitt]

I just obtained a few, and have one installed - hand thrown. It works great! My BLI 2-8-2s haven't hiccupped yet, and nothing else has derailed on it, either.

The black ties will need painting, though.... I wi***hey made a version with brown ties.

[dragenrider]

Does anyone know if PECO will offer curved turnouts in the code 83 line? That's my biggest hold back right now.

[novacoach]

Bob from Peco was at the UK NMRA convention in October with samples including to very nice #8s and said they would produce a "full range" - and their other ranges include curved so i assume they will. Yes agree about the dark ties but I like to paint anyway to flatten the finish before I ballast.
Sorry - after all these posts I should say that I have no links with Peco other than as a v satiusfied customer

Chris
Uk

[Dagny818]

I have just completed the track laying and wiring for a layout that has 200 turnouts. My criteria for selecting turnouts is flawless(?) operation. I started out with Shinohara BUT THEY ARE NOT DCC FRIENDLY! Shorts occur between the outside rail and the movable points. So far my solution to that works. I carefully, very carefully apply quick dry Acc glue - two coats. Clean rail tops afterward. Test with anything that says insulation is good/no good. One of the magazines showed how to butcher the turnout tosolve that problem. Not for me, I switched to Peco 100 (not the NEW). and have been much happier. I got the Insulfrog stuff. A lot less wiring. However thes "Old" ones are not to NMRA standdrds. Where I ,have the problem is the gap between guard rail and rail. Far too big. This can be solved by gluing a piece of Plastistrut to narrow the gap. Wheels fall into a deep hole immidiately in front of the frog. Again another piece of plastistrut solves that. Where the two rails come together there is a narrow piece of plastic insulating one from another. A dab of AC glue has solved that problem. My undertanding is that the "New" turnouts solve most of those problems. They do conform to NMRA and are supposed to be DCC friendly. If I had to do it over again I would jump on these new ones. They solve a lot of problems. My "old" ones are jperfect. They work perfectly with a brass 2 10 10 2.

A wise professor told me that "You never solve problems. You just trade the ones You have for others that you can live with"

Joe in Buffalo

[AntonioFP45]

Thanks again guys for your input.

As for the ties? IMHO, nothing that an airbrush and a thinned mixture of brown and grime acrylic couldn't handle!

[CBQ_Guy]

Very nice and very expensive.

I was planning to use these on my new layout . . .

. . .until I saw the price! [:O][V][:(]

[Bob Hayes]

Check out Wathers web page. The MSRP on the code 83 switches is around $26.95. Walthers has them on sale for about $20.95. Still expensive compared to Walthers/Shinohara switches.

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Hayes

Check out Wathers web page. The MSRP on the code 83 switches is around $26.95. Walthers has them on sale for about $20.95. Still expensive compared to Walthers/Shinohara switches.

Thank you Bob. It certainly does cost more. I have to admit though that if these Peco switches are as good as the old ones, then I wouldn't mind paying a few more dollars especially if they're less trouble prone than the competition.

On the plus side, I'm assuming that the discount dealers will be offering the switches at a lower price.

[:D][;)]