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Help! Proto 2000 2-8-8-2

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  • Member since
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  • 36 posts
Help! Proto 2000 2-8-8-2
Posted by GT Mills on Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:25 PM

Just bought an Ebay Proto 2000 2-8-8-2 Y3 with two-axle trucks on the tender (I think 16,000 tons), no doghouse, NW 2028.  Looks like any electronics are in the tender, but I am unable to get the tender shell off.  No instructions in the box. 

Anyone have the instructions?  The box P/N is 31227.  The Hobby Town price sticker on the box says $425 reduced to $325, so it may have DCC, perhaps even sound, though no speaker grills on the bottom of the tender so...

A kind gentleman sent me a set of exploded drawings of a similar model, but that looks more like a 26,000 ton tender, since it has three axle trucks.

THis model has been dropped, and the drawbar arrangement is sprung but there must be parts missing, no way coudl you pull any load with this light spring mech.   I have no idea how to fix what is here w/o some idea of how it was built originally.  

Thanks.  email [email address removed by moderator] please.

[Please use PM to contact OP....or respond to this thread - Thank you.]

  • Member since
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  • From: Pennsylvania
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Posted by Trainman440 on Thursday, May 28, 2020 10:22 PM

Hi, try this: 

----------------------------------

About the possibility of a decoder, If your model is this:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-PROTO-2000-HERITAGE-31227-2-8-8-2-NORFOLK-amp-WESTERN-N-amp-W-STEAM-LOCOMOTIVE-2028-/153941181093?hash=item23d79c02a5%3Ag%3Am9QAAOSwwqxexjyV&nma=true&si=FgIJxbogjgYU1JEcwTlFHU1UAWA%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

it does not have sound nor DCC. If it did, it would say "DCC SOUND" on the box, near the gold label. 

------------------------------------

Your engine should have a plug and a plastic "Y" connector on the engine. That Y plug clamps onto a post inside the tender to keep them together. 

This is a bad pic but it should give you an idea:

Hope this helps,

Charles

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Modeling the Santa Fe & Pennsylvania in HO

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLb3FRqukolAtnD1khrb6lQ

Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Zagreb / Croatia /Europe
  • 259 posts
Posted by Spalato68 on Thursday, May 28, 2020 11:59 PM

Original manufacturer of Proto Y3 locomotives was european manufacturer Roco. 

Here you can download scan (PDF file) of original Roco manual: link.

Here there is a spare parts list (PDF file), which also can help understanding the design of this locomotive: link

On Roco web site you can check if some parts (if needed) are still available. Several web stores in Europe offer Roco parts, e.g. APC Miniaturmodell.  

Hrvoje

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
  • 18,255 posts
Posted by SeeYou190 on Friday, May 29, 2020 12:34 AM

Not sure what you have. The Proto 2000 model I am familliar with is a USRA 2-8-8-2, not a NORFOLK AND WESTERN Y3, but they are similar. Maybe the Roco model another poster mentioned is what you have.

BLI manufactured a N&W Y3 model. I believe Rivarossi made one also.

Anyway, I have a Bachmann EM-1 2-8-8-4 that I accidentally glued the tender shell together,and now I cannot get it apart.

A previous owner could have done something similar to your locomotive.

-Kevin

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,321 posts
Posted by selector on Friday, May 29, 2020 1:38 AM

Kevin, BLI's original and only N&W Mallet was through their PCM line with a LokSound decoder.  It was the Y6-b that both Cudaken and I have enjoyed all these years.  Their other N&W articulated was the Class A, first in Paragon with QSI, then as a DC BlueLine, next in P2, and I think they must have released it since in P3.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,228 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Friday, May 29, 2020 1:45 AM

SeeYou190
Not sure what you have.

I believe he has this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heritage-USRA-2-8-8-2-Norfolk-and-Western-31227-/333313756757

From the first group of 45 built by Alco in 1919 numbered 2000 to 2044.

Cheers, Ed

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
  • 18,255 posts
Posted by SeeYou190 on Friday, May 29, 2020 9:04 AM

gmpullman
I believe he has this:

OK, got it. The box says USRA 2-8-8-2, that is the one I was aware of.

I hope the OP will add some pictures.

-Kevin

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    April 2018
  • 36 posts
Posted by GT Mills on Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:55 AM

Trainman440

Hi, try this: 

----------------------------------

About the possibility of a decoder, If your model is this:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-PROTO-2000-HERITAGE-31227-2-8-8-2-NORFOLK-amp-WESTERN-N-amp-W-STEAM-LOCOMOTIVE-2028-/153941181093?hash=item23d79c02a5%3Ag%3Am9QAAOSwwqxexjyV&nma=true&si=FgIJxbogjgYU1JEcwTlFHU1UAWA%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

it does not have sound nor DCC. If it did, it would say "DCC SOUND" on the box, near the gold label. 

------------------------------------

Your engine should have a plug and a plastic "Y" connector on the engine. That Y plug clamps onto a post inside the tender to keep them together. 

This is a bad pic but it should give you an idea:

Hope this helps,

Charles

 

This is the page I had received earlier, the tender shell won't come off as shown and I also need to understand how the draw bar was originally made in order to repair it.

I understand that the unit did not come with DCC, but it is definitly wired from the tender to the engine with provisions for it, and I can see a PCB board in the tender.

Either way I need to install a chip & speakers, and need to get the tender shell off. 

Can't understand why the shell won't come off.  There are two shell tabs on either side, but prying them away with a thin screwdriver still does not release the shell, either front nor rear.  

I found a list yeaserday that indicated three P2K runs.  The first was the 20000 series with 26T tenders.  The second series was numbered in the 31000's, shipped DCC ready with 16T tenders, and the third series (Can't find the list on my browser history and it did not save to my bookmarks, so not sure of the number P/N range) was shipped with 16T tenders and DCC w/sound.  

 

  • Member since
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  • 36 posts
Posted by GT Mills on Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:59 AM

edit

  • Member since
    April 2018
  • 36 posts
Posted by GT Mills on Saturday, May 30, 2020 10:03 AM

edit

 

  • Member since
    April 2018
  • 36 posts
Posted by GT Mills on Saturday, May 30, 2020 10:05 AM

SeeYou190

Not sure what you have. The Proto 2000 model I am familliar with is a USRA 2-8-8-2, not a NORFOLK AND WESTERN Y3, but they are similar. Maybe the Roco model another poster mentioned is what you have.

BLI manufactured a N&W Y3 model. I believe Rivarossi made one also.

Anyway, I have a Bachmann EM-1 2-8-8-4 that I accidentally glued the tender shell together,and now I cannot get it apart.

A previous owner could have done something similar to your locomotive.

-Kevin

 

Yeah, the thought has occurred to me...

  • Member since
    April 2018
  • 36 posts
Posted by GT Mills on Saturday, May 30, 2020 10:06 AM

Spalato68

Original manufacturer of Proto Y3 locomotives was european manufacturer Roco. 

Here you can download scan (PDF file) of original Roco manual: link.

Here there is a spare parts list (PDF file), which also can help understanding the design of this locomotive: link

On Roco web site you can check if some parts (if needed) are still available. Several web stores in Europe offer Roco parts, e.g. APC Miniaturmodell.  

Hrvoje

 

THanks very much, I've downloaded the documents and will look them over next. 

  • Member since
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  • From: "Steel, Steam and Thunder"Fort Wayne, Indiana
  • 1,177 posts
Posted by TheK4Kid on Tuesday, June 2, 2020 3:01 PM

On the Train Control Systems  site it shows how to get the tnder bodyof.

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