A recent moment of triumph turned to frustration when I serviced a Proto 2000 GP7 and correctly attached the circuit boards and snugged all the wires into the chasis and body. As I snugged the sheel back onto the chasis it resisted on one end and so I did what any man would I pushed and popped the cab light bulb.
I am assuming what I have to do is remove the soldered lead from the circuit board and replace it?
Is there a special type of lead and bulb to buy and from where and is this an opportunity to replace the bulb with something better?
Thanks in advance,
Sean
I recently replaced a blown bulb in a Proto 2000 BL2. If memory serves, I believe the bulbs are low voltage, somewhere in the range of 2 or 3 volts I think. Other than that, it wasn't any thing special in terms of how it attached. It was just un-solder and re-solder for the new one. As for where I got mine, I bought it locally. You could probably upgrade to an LED, but I don't know all that much about LEDs.
If you have a multimeter: Place your GP7 on your layout, power it up, and test the voltage across the two PCB soldering pads. That should tell you if it's 12V, 3V, or 1.5V.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
wheeltapperis this an opportunity to replace the bulb with something better?
Absolutely! If you use an LED instead of the original incandescent bulb you will benefit in a couple of ways. First, the LED will likely last forever. Incandescent bulbs have a limited life expectancy. Second, the LED will not generate heat (although the required resistor might if the wattage is not great enough). That means no melted plastic around the bulb. Third, the LED will draw much less power thus reducing the load on your decoder.
You have a few choices with regard to which LED to use. A 3mm warm white LED will fit most applications, but if you want the best lighting effects consider using a prewired 0603 warm white LED like these:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/0402-0603-0805-1206-Pre-Wired-SMD-LED-Diodes-Micro-Mini-DIY-Toy-Model-Lights/382566728441?var=651324450893&hash=item5912c102f9:g:dpkAAOSwQjNW-3rX
These tiny LEDs can be epoxied right to the backs of the headlight lenses and they will give you brilliant lighting. I eliminate the light bars (if any).
If you are going to go this route, understand that the placement of the LED is cruicial! It has to be placed directly behind the center of the lens. That means that you have to hold the LED in place while the epoxy hardens. I always have the LED lit so that I can see if it is in the proper location. You have to hold the LED in place until the epoxy is fully set which can take several (boring) minutes. If you let go too soon, even though the epoxy may seem to be firm, the LED can still migrate out of place. Note that a 1000 ohm resistor will likely be required in series with one lead of the LED. It doesn't matter which lead.
LEDs rule!!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi everyone,
Thank you again. I find that the asking and the answers build confidence to tackle these things.
I think LED it is for this little GP7, I will let you know how it goes.