decal paper recommendation

[tedski]

I have been having problems with my decal paper.  I expect the paper is too old because the backing doesn't come off even with a loooong dunking. So I want to try some new paper.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a decal paper?

[sandjam]

Ink jet or Laser?

[MisterBeasley]

Some time ago, I got inkjet decal paper online from decalpaper.com.  Nothing special, but it worked well enough for me.  At the time, there was a shortage and places like Walthers and MicroMark didn't have any, and hobby shops had none either.

[RR_Mel]

I had very good luck using Beldecal decal paper but they went bellyup.  Kevin is the decal king maybe he will chime in.

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[tedski]

[quote user="RR_Mel"]

I had very good luck using Beldecal decal paper but they went bellyup.  Kevin is the decal king maybe he will chime in.

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

Thanks.  I keep on the hunt for some options.  

 

 

[York1]

I've had good luck with Micromark.

https://www.micromark.com/search?keywords=decal%20paper

[doctorwayne]

I've never had any problems with Walthers' decal paper, but I use it only for dry transfers which need to be applied to difficult areas, like the corrugated ends of freight cars.  It's especially useful when the car's number is made-up from individual numerals.

I don't print my own decals, so can't comment on it for that useage.

Wayne

[RR_Mel]

Most all for the water slide decal paper available should work very well.  Most colored backing paper does take a bit longer in the water to slide easily.  You didn’t say which type paper you need.  I’ve had good luck with any brand of laser decal paper.  A couple of the cheapo inkjet decal paper have a slight problem with color bleeding, the higher quality inkjet paper would be best.

 

I use Testors Decal Bonder to prevent inkjet bleeding, I got into the habit of using the Bonder on the laser paper too.

 

If you are printing light colors the blue backing decal paper help when cutting the decals.  If you are printing yellow, white or sliver the blue backing is a must.

 

I still have about 10 or so sheets of inkjet and laser paper but when I run low I plan on trying Hayes off Amazon.

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[hbgatsf]

What’s the difference between inkjet paper and laser printer?  Why the need for 2 types?

Rick

[RR_Mel]

Inkjet printers need inkjet paper, the ink is applied as a liquid and needs to be absorbed by the paper.  Laser printers apply a toner by a heat process.

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[hbgatsf]

I can understand that ink might not do well on some types of glossy paper but toner should stick to any type.  Is the problem that the inkjet paper would melt?

Edit: searching for an explanation turned up that the coating on inkjet paper could damage a laser printer.  I was also surprised to learn that inkjet printers can produce crisper results. 

[markie97]

One thing I learned is that laser printed decals do not react well with dullcote. It caused a white glazing on my laser jet printed decals.

[RR_Mel]

I haven’t had problems with Testors Decal Bonder, Krylon or Rust-Oleum Clear.

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

 

[hornblower]

I really like the Evan Designs decal paper.  It comes in full 8 1/2" by 11" sheets and you can make both white and clear background decals from the same sheet of decal paper!  Best of all, you can skip the clear sealer coat because this specially coated decal paper absorbs and locks in the printer ink.  The only decal I've ever managed to smear was a round, multi-color Southern Pacific decal I made but couldn't manage to get straight on the model.  It finally smeared after at least a half dozen applications of Solvaset and rotating with the tip of my finger.  Having learned the hard way not to use my finger, I printed another decal and carefully positioned in using the tip of a hobby knife.  Just remember to use an acrylic clear final top coat (not in a spray can) when you want your white background decals to remain white background decals.  A solvent based (or spray can acrylic) clear top coat will cause the original white background to become and remain clear permanently.  

[kasskaboose]

What quality (dpi) to print on the decals?  This is something I might want to explore later.  Thanks for starting this topic!

[RR_Mel]

I have an Alps MD-1000 and max resolution is 600 dpi and it prints small decals extremely nice.

 

It’s difficult to see any difference between a decal printed on my 2400dpi inkjet printers and my Alps.  I normally only use the Alps for printing white, silver, gold leaf and metallic colors. 

 

I printed the SP Daylight decals on this E7 on my alps. (far left)

 

 

 

This was printed on my Alps.

 

 

 

It is Schoolbook 2 font in gold leaf.

 

 

 

Done in Word.

 

 

Printed in 600dpi.

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.