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Working with foam board
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I actually have some real experience with foam board. The pink stuff is sold by Home Depot and <br />the blue stuff by Lowes (I think it's a marketing <br />thing). How to glue it is the key. I tried everything until I discovered tubed caulk sold at <br />Home Depot - make sure you get or ask for the stuff labeled "For Projects and FoamBoard". Nothing else works well - Elmers will not dry and <br />glue guns at high temp will melt the foam and at <br />low temp take too long to work with. After you have your mountain or other structure made you can <br />fill in cracks and crevices with spray can foam <br />also sold at Home Depot - it works great to adhere <br />to the foam since it is essentially foam itself but it drys smooth so remember to keep disturbing it so it drys irregularly if you want a textured surface. Woodland scenics sells cutting tools but they're wimpy and the wire has to be replaced relatively often. Go to a Dept. 56 retailer and ask for their foam board cutter - it uses a solid wire and works much better. Krylon will not work on foam board because the organic fumes melt the foam, layer your structure with typical plaster sheet and use woodland scenics water based colors. <br />Finally buy the one inch thick foam board sold in 15ft (yes) lengths at Home Depot and layer cut sheets irregularly for mountains or glue together box like structures for tunnels and put irregularly shaped sheets around them for mountains- layer the sheets together using the caulk and glue together sides of tunnels with a <br />hot glue gun - the latter for best strength, keeping in mind my previous statement. Outer edges of walls are best to use a glue gun, outer edges will dry (the glue that is) - for sheet to sheet glueing you need to use the caulk because only it is designed to dry with no air exposure. <br />email me at pizzo@nso1.uchc.edu if this is not clear.
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