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Questions about engine and car wheel maintenance????
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<p>The magnetic uncoupler feature is not required. All you need to uncouple a car is a bamboo skewer from your local grocery store. They can be picked up in packages of about 100 for about $1.00. The two items you linked would be used to uncouple cars in areas you cant reach easily. </p> <p>Kadee's are automatic couplers, similar to the prototype. Properly installed they are self-centering and will couple on a straight section of track with no action from the operator other than pushing the cars together. Kadee's website lists which coupler to use with what brand of car here: <a href="http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc.htm">http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc.htm</a></p> <p>Each of those different types of couplers are explained here</p> <p><a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm">http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm</a></p> <p>The different types of couplers are used to standardize the coupler height to the NMRA standard height. #5 or #148 couplers will work in most cases. The #5 is centered with a separate spring. #148 has the spring self contained within the coupler. The draft gear boxes (coupler boxes) are used to mount couplers on cars that were previously equiped with talgo couplers (coupler and trucks are mounted together). Body mounting couplers is highly recommended, but not required. </p> <p>There are standard head couplers (over-sized) and scale head couplers. I find that standard head couplers are easier to uncouple most of the time, the scale heads are smaller (to scale with the prototype) and not as easy to uncouple (but its relative, the scale couplers are infinitely easier to deal with than your current X2F couplers). </p>
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