Update on Lil Guy (Lindberg SW1)

[SpaceMouse]

Every once in a while I bring him out on the track let him air it out. He's quite quick, like a slot car. Open him up on the straights and slow into the curves. I run him with an oil car and a caboose. It is kind of fun.

Anyway, I got a Tech II 1400 today and took him out. He responded quite well to better power supply. All around smoother operation. He still is a little jerky at very, very slow speeds, but I'm going to get my money out of him even if it is just as a track burner.

So I guess, I'm going to have to paint him, get him some new couplers and make him part of "the world" (No jetrock, even a Hollywood version 1880's wouldn't take him). I think I can get a decoder in there[:o)].

Any ideas on a color scheme? Think my Pennsylvainia Line will buy his contract and he can work out at the MRR club.

[twhite]

Spacemouse: I think Lil Guy will probably run better the more you use him. Heck, he's probably glad to have a home that appreciates him. As far as paint job, how about black with orange zebra stripes a la Southern Pacific or Rio Grande? I think he'd look like a real little Killer that way. Like I said before, he's sure a cute little devil.
Tom

[tstage]

Chip,

New York Central (black), PRR (Brunswick green), and B&O (blue with gold trim) could be some possibilities for you. Check the LifeLike web page and see what other lines that they modeled for their Proto 2000 series S1 switcher. I have the NYC.

Speaking of which, Chip. Ya' know, you can still pick up an Proto 2000 S1 switcher from Trainworld.com for a whopping $29.99!!! (reg. $110 MSRP) Sweet lil' runner and DCC-ready! You'd spend more than that just getting Lil' Guy up to snuff - PLUS the migranes! The only issue would be that you'd still have to insulate the motor from the frame before putting in the decoder. (Check Tony's Train Exchange for details - http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/2001/120601.htm

$29.99...plus S&H (~$7)...at your door in about 4-5 days...no late night trips to Walgreens for the 55-gal. drum of asprin...worth considering...hmmmmm

At any rate, I will have to agree with twhite's statement in the post earlier: Lil' guy is awfully cute. (Kinda' in a pug or a bulldog sorta' way: They're so ugly, their cute.)

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

I know what I have: A slot car with a train body. There's about a zillion feet on a couple levels going in two directions with outbound and inbound lanes at the train club. I'll bet Lil Guy can make two laps before any other train ther could get to the turnaround loop (and take out more models and scenery if I don't quite make the turn.) Let's see that Proto do that. I think not.

How could I give this up?

[Jetrock]

The Proto 2000 S1 is an absolutely fabulous engine--I own one in WP livery, and it is the absolute opposite of a slot car. Switchers are supposed to be SLOW, not fast, and the S1 can crawl along at a couple of scale miles per hour, or go maye 50 smph flat-out. Which is FANTASTIC.

Maybe that's another element of model railroading you haven't been introduced to yet--we value slow locomotives more than fast ones. Slow-operating locos look more real, especially when starting and stopping. Lots of high-end and no low end are a hallmark of toy-train equipment.

As far as when they were used: the SW1 was introduced in about 1939 and were used through the seventies and eighties in places. It was one of the first successful mass-produced diesel-electric switchers, and yeah, they are just adorable.

Here's a photo of my favorite SW1, Sacramento Northern 402:


The silver/black Zephyr paintjob isn't the easiest, but it ran in your old stomping grounds of Marysville when it operated on the Sacramento Northern! It can still be seen at the California State Railroad Museum in Sacramento. Of course, before 1965 it ran on the Western Pacific, and probably originally had an all-black paint scheme, probably with white or orange safety stripes.

I've got a Walthers SW1 that I want to paint to match it--and while it gets a little wobbly at low speeds due to an old-fashioned universal joint I plan on replacing, it crawls with the best of 'em.

About DCC: While you might be able to fit a decoder inside, you will have to do some fairly hariy soldering to install it--and isolating the motor from the frame might prove difficult as well.

[tstage]

Chip,

Didn't say you had to give Lil' Guy up. Just mentioned the Proto 2000 because it's such a great deal and wanted to save you additional headache and heartache. To go along with what jetrock mentioned, my #687 was manufactured in either late '40 or early '41. It crawls beautifully! (See photo below)



On that note, my "turtle" can out ooze your "hare" ANY DAY OF THE WEEK!!!

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

Lil Guy is joining me at the club. I'm going to bring him into the Pennsylvania Line to match my new locomotive.



Sometime in the next few months I'll get a switcher, but it will have to work in the 1880's.

[johncolley]

Maybe a re-power/re-gear would serve make it run sweet. Remember, a switcher is slow power to drill cars. It may loosen up with use and run slow better after all the gears and bearings are polished. If you have a loop, let it run various speedsand loads , both directions for a while, then turn it around and do it again so it gets equal time with left and right turns. This may break it in.

[Anonymous]

I wonder if there was any way some of the old hands at the club can be of assistance to help you run that SW1 that zillion feet forwards and backwards at any speed.

[Anonymous]

I have watched your entire thread as it unfolded and am glad to see the little one survivng the eBay fiasco and coming to life again. These old locos don't run too well by modern standards, but its good to see them once in awhile, and great that some are restored or slightly modified to stay alive and keep on going! Good work so far, keep it up. Lets see a photo of the new paint when your done.....

Best of luck in your"Lil Guy" project!!!
Jennifer