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3 pin SPDT momentary on off on questions

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3 pin SPDT momentary on off on questions
Posted by IDRick on Wednesday, December 4, 2019 8:21 PM

I have never purchased SPDT's before and have some questions.

Stay away from SPDT's made in China?

Can a person use 2.8 mm female spade connectors to connect to the SPDT?

I would prefer to use spade connectors to minimize time under the layout and ease of moving a wire if needed.

I do have an electronic soldering tool kit.  If I solder, what temperature should I use with my 60/40 solder?

Thanks!

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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 4, 2019 8:49 PM

You must be kidding, everything is made in China.  I buy the best price in bulk off eBay.  I’ve had very good luck with the China switches.
 
I buy the solder terminal type mini-switches.  Many many years ago I used the larger toggles with screw terminals.  Way to big for my use.
 
The solder terminals are very touchy to heat from a soldering iron.  I use surgical clamps as heat sinks on the terminals, never dinged one using the clamps.
 
 
I run my soldering iron at 750° for all my soldering, quick in and quick out prevents over heating.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by SeeYou190 on Thursday, December 5, 2019 2:23 PM

Stay away from SPDT's made in China?

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I don't even know where to buy one that is not made in China. I have never had one fail. I use full size "heavy duty" toggles. Seriously, the expensive industrial grade toggles we buy for work are all made in China.

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Can a person use 2.8 mm female spade connectors to connect to the SPDT?

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If it is made for that. Many different arrangement of contact points are available. The switches I buy are set up for 1/4" spade connectors.

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What temperature should I use with my 60/40 solder?

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Like Mel, I use a high temperature and get in and out fast.

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-Kevin

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Wink Happily modeling my STRATTON & GILLETTE RAILROAD. A Class A line located in a personal fantasy world of semi-plausible nonsense on Tuesday, August 3rd, 1954.

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Posted by IDRick on Thursday, December 5, 2019 4:25 PM

:-)  Okay, I'll humbly admit my ignorance on sources for SPDT's.  In looking on e-bay, I found several SPDT sales with a USA seller and wrongly assumed a USA manufacturer...  Oops, oh well, not my first error!  LOL!

My goal is to minimize my time under the layout when installing the switch machine.  For a single switch, I would attach the wires to the atlas switch machine, thread wires through a hole in the plywood, and finally attach to the SPDT (quick install with female spade connector, longer if soldering under the table).  Similar process with a crossover, just more wires to keep sorted...

Kevin, can you give me the part number and source for your SPDT's with 1/4 inch spades?  I've looked at several sites and have been unable to find SPDT's with specs on spade width.

I do have the equipment so I could solder wires to the SPDT but I have not made this of soldering connection.  So, please help me here.  Is the process to tin the wire, tin the spade connection, then hold tinned wire to tinned connection and solder?  I notice that all the soldering lugs have a hole in the middle.  Do I insert the wire in the hole and solder it there?  Forgive my questions, wanna do it right and am a complete novice at this application.

Thanks Mel and Kevin!

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Posted by hon30critter on Friday, December 6, 2019 5:14 AM

IDRick
Is the process to tin the wire, tin the spade connection, then hold tinned wire to tinned connection and solder?  I notice that all the soldering lugs have a hole in the middle.  Do I insert the wire in the hole and solder it there?

Hi IDRick,

Yes and yes. Tin everything first, and put the wire through the hole. I bend the wire around the terminal so it can't move when I'm soldering it, and it avoids having any stray wires sticking out where you don't want them.

Get yourself some soldering flux (not acid) and apply a wee bit to the wires and terminals before soldering.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hot-Max-24171-Soldering-2-Ounce/dp/B005TGNFBG/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=3857089092&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvqmt=p&keywords=flux+soldering&qid=1575631106&sr=8-5

Also, get yourself a brass tip cleaning pad. It looks like a pot scrubber. Keeping your tip clean is essential. This is just one example:

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/aven-tools/17530-TC/4926916

As has been said, learn to get in and out quickly with a hot soldering iron. Otherwise you will melt the body of the switch. If you prepare everything as you have said, the solder will flow into the joint very quickly.

Dave

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Posted by gregc on Friday, December 6, 2019 7:08 AM

hon30critter
Get yourself some soldering flux (not acid)

i use flux core solder (not acid core), it doesn't require any paste.   When heating the solder, you can see a brownish fluid before the solder melts.

and i just wet a napkin with my tongue to wipe the tip.

it's just not that complicated.

greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading

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Posted by NVSRR on Friday, December 6, 2019 8:38 AM

I get mine from Mouser.  An eletrical component ware house.   You can find ones made in the us there.  Because they supply government contractors and they are required to source US made parts.    They are also far cheaper than ebay.   You could also get the spaded ones and the spades to go with them.   And every other connector you want.       almost all of my electrical is screw terminal and spades. All from mouser.   Saved me a fortune on components

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An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel

A realist sees a frieght train

An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space

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Posted by gregc on Friday, December 6, 2019 9:31 AM

NVSRR
They are also far cheaper than ebay.

can you get an SPDT switch from mouser for less than a $1

greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading

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Posted by York1 on Friday, December 6, 2019 9:42 AM

Those of you on this forum for any length of time know Lion from ND.

He gave me advice that has saved my life, my arms, and my head many times.

He told me to put a board some inches behind my fascia board, and make all electrical connections there.  When I need to do any work, I take the fascia board off, and I can sit in a chair and do all the soldering, connecting, etc, without getting under the table.

I have a bunch of stuff under the table that was already finished before I used this method, but it has made a world of difference.

John  --  Saints Fan  

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Posted by IDRick on Friday, December 6, 2019 12:45 PM

Thanks for the tips!  Very helpful and good to know that my original thoughts were mostly in line and benefited your expertise!  The Lion tip stated by York is a great suggestion!  I did check out the mouser site, their SPDT's are significantly higher than on e-bay.  Soldering appears to be the way to go.  Thanks!

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Posted by SeeYou190 on Friday, December 6, 2019 1:50 PM

IDRick
Kevin, can you give me the part number and source for your SPDT's with 1/4 inch spades?  I've looked at several sites and have been unable to find SPDT's with specs on spade width.

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I buy them from Skycraft Parts in Orlando, Florida. They stock them by the bucket full.

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I go there in person, but I believe they do mail order.

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-Kevin

.

Wink Happily modeling my STRATTON & GILLETTE RAILROAD. A Class A line located in a personal fantasy world of semi-plausible nonsense on Tuesday, August 3rd, 1954.

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Posted by Canalligators on Saturday, December 7, 2019 11:34 AM

You want to solder.  Spade lug connections will eventually corrode, if even a little.  Every few years (or more) you will be re-seating connectors to restore good contact.  A little grease will extend the interval, but eventually you’ll be fixing them.

All of my panels are built at the bench, then installed to swing down for maintenance or modification.  Wires all run to screw terminal barrier strips.  Wiring from the layout connects there.  In twenty years, some in a humid climate with no/poor dehumidification, I’ve had no connection failures.

Genesee Terminal, freelanced HO in Upstate NY
  ...hosting Loon Bay Transit Authority, run through Amtrak and CSX Intermodal

CP/D&H, N scale, somewhere on the Canadian Shield

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