BigDaddyTo understand Maxman you are going to have to step down into the gutter with the rest of us.
Stepping down should be easy. I needed an extension ladder to climb up into it.
hon30critter BigDaddy For things like grab irons and hand rails, or cast metal parts glued to wood or styrene, I would use a super glue, aka CAA, not PVA. I agree. Dave
BigDaddy For things like grab irons and hand rails, or cast metal parts glued to wood or styrene, I would use a super glue, aka CAA, not PVA.
I agree.
Dave
And well you should.
At the risk of hijacking the thread, although recognizing that adhesives were part of the OP's inquiry, I believe I left the wrong impression with some readers.
gmpullmanI find myself using the PVA/Canopy cement more often these days.
I don't suggest modelers toss all their cyanoacrylates in the rubbish right away. I probably have two-dozen different grades and brands of CA within reach of my bench at the moment. Gels, gap filling, accelerators, Gorilla Glue, Ultra, Professional and a few other types I forget. Sure there are times when nothing else will do.
I mention that I find more uses for the better grades of PVA, skip the Elmer's School Glue unless you're making masks out of construction paper and grocer's bags.
I have found the canopy cement and Faller Laser Expert cement is handy for, yes, wire grab irons, brake staffs, brake rigging and several other tasks. When it comes to sticking LEDs into headlight housings there's nothing better. It stays pliable, does not FOG the paint or clear styrene, can be removed if necessary. A few days ago I had to replace a broken grab iron (plastic) on a Proto2000 box car. Since I used the PVA I could tug at the remains of the stub and pull them out leaving a clean hole to stick the replacement into.
When it comes to things like stirrups or items where I need more durability I now prefer two-part epoxy rather than CA. If I have small detail parts that are painted then the SuperGlue is a good choice.
The PVA takes some getting used to. Sometimes I have to allow it to get a little tacky before assembling the part. It is also handy for securing coupler box and bolster screws, kind of acting like a "thread-locker" (LockTite) type of thing. Often, I find I have to leave the coupler box screw a little loose so the coupler doesn't bind. Just a tiny dab of PVA around the head of the screw prevents it from turning but the bond can easily be broken if needed.
Just sayin' what works for me. Happy Modeling, Ed
maxmanStepping down should be easy. I needed an extension ladder to climb up into it.
I must be slow. I still don't understand your 'no' comment. Please enlighten me. If I said something that offended you I would like to know so I won't do it again.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critterI must be slow. I still don't understand your 'no' comment. Please enlighten me. If I said something that offended you I would like to know so I won't do it again.
LOL! No, you didn't do anything offensive. Just notch up the throttle a bit. I believe that you said "nice caboose". If a nice young thing were passing by, you might get slapped if you said "she has a ...." If that doesn't clear it up, think of the Mel and Tim song, Backfield In Motion, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0AU5Mckb3Q.
That's not about a football penalty, eh.
I'm glad you tackled that, Steve's getting tired of putting me on moderation
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
maxman I believe that you said "nice caboose". If a nice young thing were passing by, you might get slapped if you said "she has a ...."
Okay, I'm obviously getting really slow these days!!!
That's one of the reasons I like going to our favourite restaurant, and no, they don't have model trains!! I do keep my thoughts to myself however!