I received many helpful comments regarding my DC/DCC decision, I will be going DCC based on what I feel my comfort level is. I will be running modern era N-Scale, leaning toward inter-modal. I have not purchased any stock or equipment, I have visited hobby shops and spent a lot of time on u tube and this site. My next question is what is the first step to take on the build ? Thanks.
The more specific you can make the title of your post, the better answers you will get.
Decide which railroad you are modeling and what geographic area. While you can see any foreign power on any railroad, I think your money is better spent on buying only the locos from 1 Class A railroad and both locos and rolling stock from the era you are modeling.
Get John Armstrong's book Track Planning for Realistic Operations. Run your trackplan by the layout gurus here.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Read, read read! Go online and check out some of the Youtube videos explaining DCC. Plenty of resources, so get ready to get overwhelmed!
I would think about what kind of layout you want to do in the space avalible. I would start small, but not so small your curves are super sharp. Also, I would suggest Kato intermodal equitment.
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
Hello All,
Some advice from a master...
"A model railroad should probably start with a concept. Why? Because much knowledge about railroading, experience in model railroading, and thought are required before a proper concept for a model railroad can be formed. These requirements are seldom possible on a first pike. Mine was no exception."- -John Allen; Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
It seems that you have this first step covered.
The next step would be making a track plan.
For some this is the most exciting aspect and for others it's filled with dread- -AKA analysis paralysis.
Decide how much space you have and the shape of the layout; around the wall(s), walk-in, free-standing walk-around, etc.
With your concept; inter-modal, are you more interested in modeling the transfer points; ports and/or yards, or the route; Cajon Pass, etc.?
With my pike, after I decided it would be a coal-branch loop set in Western Colorado during the 1970s to 1980s, I began to set pencil to paper (the first iteration was actually a rough sketch on a bar napkin).
From that initial rough sketch, I went to graph paper, a mechanical pencil and a LARGE eraser.
Some prefer more modern methods- -CAD or track planning software.
I also decided that I would use sectional track over flex track. Next I decided on a height of the rail. I model in HO so I chose Code 100. Atlas was my manufacturer of choice along with some PECO turnouts.
At first I decided that a single level would suit my needs. The loading of the coal hoppers would be done by a conveyor belt and the unloading would be done with a rotary dumper.
Because this pike would be a "tabletop" sitting on the bed in the computer/spare bedroom/train room there would be no under pike access.
Initially I had planned on using 5/8-inch plywood with foam roadbed. I soon realized that I would need some way to plumb the wires rather than just having them lying on top of the foam.
That lead me to using 1-inch blue/pink foam. Taking a page out of prototypical utilities I decided to use automotive split flex tubing.
I could cut channels into the foam and lay the SFT. This would allow me to, in effect, make utility tunnels and be able to senic over them without burying the wires.
After researching conveyor belt systems in HO scale I soon realized that my choices were to scratch build a conveyor belt system or come up with an alternative loading/unloading system.
Because of the depth of the foam I decided on, this meant that I would not be able to use a rotary dumper to unload the hoppers.
The lead in the mechanical pencil was diminishing, the eraser was getting smaller and the graph paper was wearing thin from all the changes.
I literally turned a page.
My original rough sketch wasn't working.
From my first layout, when I was a child, I remembered the Tyco 34-foot operating hoppers. I wondered if these were still available.
After some research I realized that these were available as "vintage" rolling stock.
The drawback of these cars is, because of the unloading mechanism built into the track, a locomotive can't pass over it. That dictated yet another "modification" of the plan.
With an elevated unloading platform I could run loaded cars up an incline, shove them through the unloading siding and have the waiting empties on a siding below to receive the load.
The empties would then be shuttled down to the mainline to repeat the process.
OK, now how to fit all of that into a 4'x8' pike?
All of these questions and problems had to be answered and solved before I could begin the next step of actual construction.
Once the track plan was established (note: not finalized), I could begin to gather the materials necessary for the base (benchwork) of the pike.
Next step- -benchwork. That's an entire other thread!
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I am going to go against the grain here.
.
Don't read too much, don't think too much, just build something.
Get a small door and a little track, a basic DCC system, and throw together something simple, build a few structures, do a little scenery, and LEARN A LOT!
Then throw it all away and start over. Once you have built a first model railroad, you will have accomplished something, and learned so much. There are no consequences if anything goes wrong.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190Don't read too much, don't think too much, just build something.
I agree with Kevin..To much reading can lead to confusion. I would start DCC with either a Digitrax Zephyr or NCE Power Cab. I would buy the newer N Scale DCC ready locomotives or if you're so inclined the DCC/Sound engines.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I’d say you should start something, but do it in a way that you can easily change it in the future.
First buy a few locomotives and cars, and start running something! Try to buy stuff in the era you intend to model, but don’t be to picky! At this stage your era could easily change. For track I’d recommend buying some sectional track so you can test different track arrangements. Kato Unitrack appears to be the most popular, but old Atlas track can be bought for a lot less at Train shows, so that is another option.
Also start doodling and drawing track plans. If your a pencil and paper guy that works fine, but I like track planning programs as they give you a good idea of how much you really can fit in a given space! (I personnally use XTrackCAD, it’s free and quite good!)
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
Think of your first layout as a stepping stone and a learning experience. Like anythng new, you will be learning and will make mistakes. After a year or so, it may be time to start another layout which will be much better than the first one based on what you have learned.
Planning is good, but do not fall into the trap of over planning. Last year at Bootbay Railway Village we received a donation from a man who retired and was planning his first and 'uliimate layout'. He spent years planning, researching, and buying stuff. He passed away before starting any construction. I am sure he enjoyed the planning, but had nothing to show for it but boxes of rolling stock and some locomotives.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
G Paine Last year at Bootbay Railway Village we received a donation from a man who retired and was planning his first and 'uliimate layout'. He spent years planning, researching, and buying stuff. He passed away before starting any construction.
The people at Trainz, Brasstrains, and Dads Brass Trains all say they regularly buy massize collections of unused trains that were intended for a dream layout that never got built.
I currently have a massive collection for my next layout... I hope this does not happen to me.
I would want to get trains running next. You can try carpet running, but I don't know how well that works in N gauge. You need benchwork of some kind. Simpliest is a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood on sawhorses or two drawer file cabinets or a table. Around the walls layouts get you more layout and less aisle in the same sized room, but requires a small amount of carpentry. Either way, lay track for your mainline and then run a train on it. Plan for the broadest mainline curves you can fit in. For N gauge shoot for 23 inch radius if you can fit it in.
John Armstrong's "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" is invaluable, I refered to it constantly while building my layout. You cannot rely upon rail joiners to conduct track power. I ran a power bus under the entire layout and ran #22 AWG jumpers to every other piece of track. I used #14 AWG house wire for the bus, I had some, it is readily available, and it is mechanically rugged. You can bump into it and not break it. Electrically speaking #14 is overkill but who cares. Get all the track down and running well before thinking about scenery.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Hello Jerry,
I have sent you a PM ... check the messages tag under your green welcome box at the top of the page,
Regards from Australia,
Trevor
Thanks. Sometimes keeping it simple makes the most sense, I was leaning towards your advice before I wrote my request. I was looking for some affirmation from people with greate rexperience than myself. I think I will go with an oval with a couple of turnouts for a start and go from there. Before that I will need to do some reading up on wiring and DCC. Scenery should not be much of an issue, I've been building model aircraft for years.
Thanks. I made my decisiion to start with a small layout, make my mistakes and go from there. Equipment definitely DCC ready. Are the two DCC systems you recommend expandable for future operations ? Which has the steepest learning curve ? Thanks again, have a good day.
I made the Kato decision a while back. The user reviews are good and I like their fit and finish as far as quality is concerned. Only drawback I see is their rolling stock is limited. Do you know if Kato runs well with other manufacturers with out any issues, say Athearn for example, I'm concerned if their couplers are compatable as I said I'm new to this and don't mind asking questions. Thanks from one upstater to another, at the western end.