recommended glue for flex track rails to bridge track

[thanosazlin]

going off this post http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/253719/2834373.aspx , i am looking going to take code 100 flex track rails and put them on my walther plastic bridge track. as i can't find walthers code 100 bridge track they make 85, and i saw i could convert 85 to 100, but i figure it was best to get code 100 flex track , cut off the plastic ties and make my own length.. btw i'm using a Walthers "Single Track Railroad Truss Bridge"

 https://www.walthers.com/catalog/product/view/id/819642/s/single-track-railroad-truss-bridge-kit-20-x-3-1-4-x-5-quot-50-x-8-1-x-12-5cm/

so my question is, when i go to glue the rails from the flex track to the plastic ties/track that came with the bridge, what type of glue should i use ? i was going to just use plastic model glue or super glue ? but then i thought will the electrical current in the rails have any affect on the type of glue i use ? just being cautious here :( and not knowing..

[cowman]

Do the directions say glue?

The small Atlas bridges I have, the rail slides in and requires no glue.

Just a thought.

Good luck,

Richard

[RR_Mel]

If you are talking about the inside guard rails I used Super Glue (CA) for my trestle 30 years ago and it’s still holding great.  The track is Atlas code 83 flex track as are the added guard rails, I removed the ties and just glued the rails in place.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[gmpullman]

thanosazlin

i am looking going to take code 100 flex track rails and put them on my walther plastic bridge track.

Did you already buy the Code 83 bridge track? I don't think the code 100 rail will fit very well into the space for the code 83 rail.

I would suggest going with Central Valley bridge ties which some are made for code 100 rail:

https://www.shop.cvmw.com/Code-100-83-Atlas-Code-100-ME-1901-8.htm

These are designed to hold the base of the rail by mashing down the spike heads over the base of the rail. It is pretty realistic looking and probably less costly than going with the Shinohara/Walthers bridge track.

https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/central-valley-model-works-ho-1901-8-code-100-bridge-ties-with-25-stringers/

I've built several C-V bridges and their bridge ties look pretty decent. Micro-Engineering has some, too but I'm not sure they have it for code 100?

 

Good Luck, Ed

[BigDaddy]

thanosazlin

but then i thought will the electrical current in the rails have any affect on the type of glue i use ? just being cautious here :( and not knowing.. Add Quote to your

Glue between rails and ties has nothing to do with electrical conductivity.

Logan Holtgrewe, one of the creators of the Severna Park Model Railroad Club, believes that contact cement, hit with a little bit of CA froms a very solid bond.

I have not tested that theory, but his decades of experience outweighs mine.

[selector]

In no particular order:

Tacky Glue (Aleene's), if you put a small drop on each tie.  It's not the strongest stuff for the purpose, but it should work.

Contact cement, probably about the best choice.

Two-part epoxy, but use it sparingly, on most ties, and roughen up the plastic tie surface first with 100 grit paper, or a needle file.  Will need hours to cure, but gives you lots of fiddle time.

Delayed gel cyanoacrylic, or superglue.  It will act quickly, no adjustments possible, unless you use a delay chemical.  Is there one?

Ambroid glue.  Sets up pretty quickly, but if you're quick and can get it all lined up and in gauge with the other rail, should work well.  Again, sparingly, but most/all ties.

[doctorwayne]

gmpullman

...Did you already buy the Code 83 bridge track? I don't think the code 100 rail will fit very well into the space for the code 83 rail....

I think that Ed's right about the code 100 rail being too wide.

However, if it does fit, contact cement is a good choice - I used it for all six bridges on my layout.  Do, however, follow the instructions on the container.  In my opinion, many users don't, and end-up with unsatisfactory results.

Personally, I would have gone with the code 83 and the transition joiners, although it's not all that difficult to make your own transition joiners, and simply elevate the bridge deck by that .017" difference.

Wayne

[kasskaboose]

Would white glue work?

[MisterBeasley]

I have used CA in a number of locations.  For curved trestles, I bend and pre-shape the guard rails to the correct curvature so there is no sideways springiness to counteract.

I make my own bridge track by sliding the ties off carefully, removing the spacers and replacing them closer.  It sounds harder than it is.  After one bridge or trestle, it becomes simple and routine.