In addition to being easier to install, and way more important to me, #148s work more consistently and reliably with delayed uncoupling than even brand new #5s
I use a home made system where bar magnets are mechanically raised up under the track when I want to uncouple, they rest below the track enough to never cause accidental uncouplings. Dan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Uncoupler-for-Kadee-Conversion-Kit-for-DCC-control-HO-scale-6pcs/252323121937?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3D2bf9847db6754f969fb204766409daab%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D252323121937%26itm%3D252323121937%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507
Southgate I use a home made system where bar magnets are mechanically raised up under the track when I want to uncouple, they rest below the track enough to never cause accidental uncouplings. Dan
I am going to need to experiment with retractable uncoupling magnets. I like what you guys have done.
.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I bought the Rix uncoupling tool a few months ago and it seem to work fine.
Most of my rolling stock has been converted to Kadee 148's. The are maybe 5 cars I haven't gotten to and 2 locomotives (1 has proto max metal couplers so I plan on leaving it alone). The other an MTH GP 38-2 will be convered eventually but its not an everyday runner.
Joe Staten Island West
I don't replace the Walthers ProtoMax unless they fail (once so far over dozens of cars) but Athearn's McHenry's, Accurails, and others go into plastic bags and get sold for a buck or three at swap meets.
Some of our guys like the Rix tool; I find it clumsy. If you are close enough and can see well enough the skewers are fine. Kadee's offset delayed feature gets a workout, but mostly the club layout is designed to keep heavy switching areas up close and personal.
What I really liked are the Kadee K-5 straight pin couplers that preceded the magnetic versions. These would uncouple with a flick of the skewer from the side and were very reliable -- but they are scarce these days. An older friend had them on his layout and they worked well.
The person who started this topic appears to have never come back. I wonder how things turned out?
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Having adapted his fleet to Kadees, he is now happily modeling and not sitting on his bottom reading news groups?
Graham Line Having adapted his fleet to Kadees, he is now happily modeling and not sitting on his bottom reading news groups?
Hopefully he read the advise and took it. Then there is their is the rest of us?
I think I remember something called news groups back in the 80's when dial up was the main way of connecting. Also bulletin board systems.
Other than Kadee's, the only other coupler I like is the two-part accumate that comes with both Accurail and Atlas products. Despite reading comments about poor performance, I've never had problems with them breaking or uncoupling at unwanted places. They've always worked fine for me.
Unlike the other plastic knuckle couplers that inevitably get some sort of lockjaw at some point in their life and must be tossed.
- Douglas
DoughlessOther than Kadee's, the only other coupler I like is the two-part accumate that comes with both Accurail and Atlas products. Despite reading comments about poor performance, I've never had problems with them breaking or uncoupling at unwanted places. They've always worked fine for me.
Doughless,When I was in N Scaled I grew tired of Micro Trains coupler slinky action at slow switching speeds.. I replaced the MTs on 80% of my cars with Atlas two-part accumate couplers and never had a issue and the slinky action was history.
If I return to N today I would use Atlas two-part accumates.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
UNCOUPLER
There are many topics about how to scratchbuild Kadee uncoupler; this one is for sure far, one of the most simpliest to be build.
It's friend of me, well know European modeler Jacques Leplat who discover the trick just because he placed in the wrong direction a permanent magnet under his track.
Jacques ended with a very simple device to use a permanent magnet under the track, but in a way unwanted uncoupling never take place again.
The system is similar of the one or Rapido, but Jacques used it more than 20 years ago; he submitted the process and design to Kadee at this time, but there were never any follow up.
I use it on my N scale layout; an HO permanent magnet is enough to build two round type N scale magnet.
You can substitue the Kadee magnet by any others, they need to be glued on a circular plate in the good position.
The device is very small and take very little place, so even in a yard multiple magnet are able to be used and placed
How it works:
The Kaddee permanent magnet must be placed parallel of the track under the track, the magnet field is on the left and right side of the track and when the coupler comes over, this field open the magnet; by simply turning the magnet by 90° the field of the magnet is adjacent to the track and has no more influence against the coupler even if you use it on a mainline.
Jacques design was designed to use push and pull rod to turn the magnet, but by today standard a servo can be easily substitued to do the job if necessary.
How to do it:
The Kaddee permanent magnet is glued on the steel intensifier; the whole assembly is rounded in a diameter a bit over the width of the track ties; a sand belt of a small grinder do the job, this don't affect the quality of the magnet.
With a round drill saw, drill a hole in the middle track roadbed, the device allow to adjust the height of the magnet, the magnet need to be close as possible of the underneath of the ties; to close the hole, a very thin plastic layer of 0.05mm is inserted between the ties and the roadbed so you can ballast the area.
The support itself is a simple piece of wood with a small brass threaded rod, nuts and washer; on the Jacques pictures, you see a pin made of brass tube and a piece of piano wire; this piano wire act as a spring for a locking position of the brass actuator.
The brass tube actuator is connected with a push/pull movement to move the magnet.
Here are some pictures
1. a coupler over a normal positionned magnet, he open (N scale)
2.The magnet is turned 90°, the magnet didn't affect the coupler anymore
3. a hole is drilled in the middle of the track ( J. Leplat picture)
4. Here is the device with the piano wire spring, the small brass tube is the actuator in Jacques design ( J. Leplat picture)
5. the magnet in the hole under the track (J. Leplat picture)
6. the device seen under the roadbed (J. Leplat picture)
7. my revised plan of the device which not use a lateral arm to be actuated but the center rod
Douglas, if you're interested, I have quite a few of the Accumate couplers on-hand for a really-really good price (as you're aware, this site doesn't allow selling). If you're interested, a PM with your mailing address is all I need.
Wayne
Luke088 Rix uncoupler works really fine for me (even with passenger cars) I even use it far from where I stand (3 feet away) using a wood stick that I fix the Rix to it ! And it is a cheap solution. Hoping to help
I have close coupled passenger cars with diaphragms. Do you slide the Rix tool under the couplers. That's the only way I can see that working with my passenger cars.
I quit using the Rix years ago in favor of skewers. I might have to dig mine up if it can be used in that manner.
gmpullman kasskaboose Any clones the OP could use also? They might work for anyone with limited funds. BRAKIE I would go with Kadees or Walthers Protomax II coupler since both brands are top line. I use both brands. As Brakie mentions the Walthers Protomax are a "close" clone of the Kadee #5. However, the genuine Kadees (#5) are 20/$24 and the Protomax are 20/$26 (street price) so there is no real economy there. For my use, Kadee is a coupler "system" and I keep dozens of styles and shank configurations on hand for particular needs knowing that they will all perform flawlessly. As an alternate to a skewer, the Rix uncoupling magnet can also be a handy tool for uncoupling. https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/rix-products-ho-628-0014-uncoupling-tool/ Good Luck, Ed
kasskaboose Any clones the OP could use also? They might work for anyone with limited funds.
BRAKIE I would go with Kadees or Walthers Protomax II coupler since both brands are top line. I use both brands.
As Brakie mentions the Walthers Protomax are a "close" clone of the Kadee #5.
However, the genuine Kadees (#5) are 20/$24 and the Protomax are 20/$26 (street price) so there is no real economy there.
For my use, Kadee is a coupler "system" and I keep dozens of styles and shank configurations on hand for particular needs knowing that they will all perform flawlessly.
As an alternate to a skewer, the Rix uncoupling magnet can also be a handy tool for uncoupling.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/rix-products-ho-628-0014-uncoupling-tool/
Good Luck, Ed
I have and with a bit of practice the rix tool works fine. When not in use I have a spot for it on my under layout metal file cabinet so it never gets lost.
joe323I have and with a bit of practice the rix tool works fine.
Joe,Although I use KD between the rails magnets I own one of those Rix tools and a KD 241 "Dual Tool" that's the uncoupler/spring pick..