Coupler question

[Anonymous]

I ordered a Spectrum 2-10-0 and a Model Power 32' caboose for my first locomotive unit and the couplers seem to be different. It's difficult for me to determine which type couplers these are, but wouldn't it be best to run the same couplers on all the units rather than mix-matching? Which couplers are the best to use? When ordering freight cars from different manufacturers how does one determine what type couplers are used? I know my ignorance is showing and I've got some books on order that hopefully will shed some light on this ignorance. Thanks.....

[Leon Silverman]

You are right to expect that all of your equipment should have the same type of couplers. There are basically two types of couplers in use today. The more popular, at least among experienced model railroaders is the knuckle type that approximates the shape of a prototype coupler. This has a curved uncoupling pin that curves down from the coupler and and ends up pointing away from the enginer or caboose.
The other type is referred to as either an X2F or NMRA type coupler. This has a nondescript shape that best approximates the head of the Alien associated with Sigourny Weaver when viewed from the top. The bottom end of this coupler faces down.
You usually do not have a choice as to which coupler is supplied by a particular manufacturer, if one is supplied at all. If you see a picture of the complete model, you will get the coupler shown in that picture. Some manufacturers, however, supply both. With the exception of the very cheapest trainsets which come with truck mounted (talgo type) coupler boxes (as opposed to body mounted coupler boxes) , it is usually a fairly simple matter to replace the supplied coupler with a brand or style you prefer.
IMO (IN MY OPINION) you will find that virtually all experience modelers prefer the the knuckle type coupler. The preferred brand is Kadee but the other brands are compatible and will be satisfactory under most circumstances.

[cacole]

The couplers usually need to be changed on locomotives and rolling stock to a better quality than what the manufacturers use, since their primary aim is to make it as cheaply as possible. Kadee couplers, which are models of the real knuckle type, are the most highly recommended, and they come in a wide variety of types to fit different models. Check their Web site for information about conversions for the different brands of locomotives and rolling stock.

McHenry and others make couplers that are compatible with Kadee. The biggest difference between brands is that most Kadees are metal, and the others are plastic. I have had good luck with the newer McHenry scale sized knuckle spring couplers. Kadee is also now manufacturing a more prototypically scale sized coupler. The original Kadee and other brands had over-sized knuckles.

Avoid couplers that don't have an actual coil spring in the knuckle, because their plastic spring weakens over time and they come uncoupled too easily after a few months of use.

Both Kadee and McHenry couplers come in a variety of types and sizes with long, medium and short shank and centered, raised, or lowered knuckle head to fit different models.

[Anonymous]

The locomotive/tender unit has the knuckle coupler and the caboose has the "alien" coupler. Time to order some knuckle couplers!!!! Thank you very much.....

[nfmisso]

You also need a Kadee #205 coupler hieght guage (HO scale).

[Anonymous]

And possibly a tool to bend the uncoupling pin up just a little, most of them pop out of the factory always a hair too low.

You may want to buy small rings designed to go onto your truck screws and raise your entire carbody with the coupler on it to the correct height.

Over time you will see that as stated above, they include knuckle couplers in some rolling stock but they are not the Metal Kaydees that can stand up to the wear and tear.

My recent BLI PRR J1 2-10-4 had a plastic McHenry type coupler on the front. It was promptly destroyed by the action of double heading. Replacing that with a Kaydee led to grounding issues which is being looked at.

Bottom line, I disregard any model with Talgo type couplers, horn and hook couplers except to check the Kaydee list for a potential "Drop-in" replacement It is a never ending battle.

There is much good information to be found in this thread and I want to wish you the best of luck in your coupler adventures.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the great information.