I model the EL and was given 15 years ago the IHC EL smooth side passenger car collection. To make them run better, I replaced the wheelsets with metal wheels, body mounted the couplers, add lead weights, installed interior details and battery powered LED lighting. I want to switch to powering the lights by rail and I noticed that Walthers Proto commonwealth metal truck looked like they would make this a simple process. They appear to be metal on each side with screws on top which should make it easty to attach wires. I ordered Walther Proto 920-2107 trucks and they arrived today but there is a problem. On the IHC trucks the centering hole is offset to one side however on the Walther trucks the centering hole is in the center of the trucks. I suspect that the IHC put the centering hole off center to make it easier for the cars to negotiate 18" curves and not because that was the way the prototypes were designed. If I replace the IHC trucks with the Walther proto trucks and shift the centering hole on the car to accomadate the new trucks, will this cause problems for the cars performance? My curves are a minimum of 22" and most are greater than that. Anyone out there that has some experience they can share before I start?
Train of IHC streamline cars, Proto 2000 E unit.
To light the IHC cars I replaced the plastic wheels with metal wheels which I obtained from IHC. IHC has been gone for quite a few years so I don't know where you would go now. The 4 wheel trucks need 28 inch wheels. I kept the plastic trucks and made axle wipers from phospher bronze weather strip. I secured the axle wipers to the plastic truck with 2-56 machine screws and nuts. For lights I wound up using a Walthers lighting strip that fit the IHC cars nicely. It had LEDs, the necessary rectifier and voltage regulator. The lights came on with track power at 5 volts and stayed a constant brightness all the way up to 12 volts. I bought IHC molded plastic interiors, and replaced the plastic truck retainer pins with 6-32 pan head machine screws. And ballasted the cars up to NMRA recommendations. Due to 22 inch curves I stayed with the truck mount couplers.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
David, thank you for your suggestions and pictures. I did switch the wheel sets to 28" metal wheels and have had great success with the body mounted couplers. I also added diaphrams that work well as long as the curve does not drop below 22". However, my metal wheel sets do not appear to have one side insulated so putting wipers on the axles does not appear to be an option at this point. Couldyou let me know what brand of wheel sets you used? Also, could you share some pictures of the wipers on the trucks so I can get a better idea of how it is done. I did notice that on http://www.ihc-hobby.com/category/33157122 website they offer axel wipers for the 2 wheel trucks for $3.98/pair. Maybe this might be a good substitute for what you used?
I see from your profile you live in the New Hampshire. I lived near Keene, NH for 8 1/2 years. Loved living in the state. Some great memories of my time spent there and visiting the Northern part of the state.
Home made axle wipers. Material is phosphor bronze from a piece of weatherstrip. Phosphor bronze is springier than brass. I mailordered the 28 inch wheel sets from IHC back when IHC was in business. That was a few years ago. They are insulated (all two rail wheelsets must be insulated). One wheel is in contact with the axle. One truck picks up from one rail, the other truck picks up from the other rail.
I tried wheel tread wipers on another car once but the friction drag was just too much. I tried out my newly lighted caboose on the tail end of a friend's long coal drag. With my wheel wiping caboose the coal drag could no longer make it up the grade on the club layout. Even with a cast zamac Bowser steamer on the point. I redid that car with axle wipers.
In the photo you can see the 6-32 pan head machine screw securing the truck and the 2-56 nut the secures the 2-56 machine screw that holds the axle wiper in place.
I tried body mount couplers but I had trouble with derailment on my 22 inch curves so I went back to truck mount couplers. I don't back my streamline passenger train much so the truck mount works OK.
And yes New Hampshire is a great place.
Dave,
Thanks for the photo and advice. For your caboose you might try the new Kadee No. 590 HO scale Electrical pickup caboose trucks, bettendorf. Save some work.
Lou