I'm shopping for a current version of a diesel switcher with DCC for club use. I prefer new and current models over used. Medium to medium-high pricing ok, e.g. $150 or above.
My criteria are as follows (weighting of 1 to 10 in importance, with 10 = most important):
1. Reliability over turnouts (10)
2. Very low speed crawling ability (9+)
3. Good weight and pulling power - for a switcher (8)
4. Fairly accurate detail (7)
5. Excellent sound set (8)
6. Ability to **easily** lash up 2 engines if needed (6)
I hope these criteria are enough to elicit focused opinions and experiences.
You'll want some sort of "keep alive" installed to keep the switcher crawling over dead frogs or dirty track.
The Athearn SW1000 and SW1500 are good runners.
You might want to look into the up coming Rapdio SW1200. They should be top notch in detail and running qualities and should include a keep alive feature, and can be bought with ESU loksound IIRC.
https://www.rapidotrains.com/products/diesel-locomotives/ho-scale-emd-sw1200
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I have a couple of Walthers switchers which are fine, but one is very light to allow a sound decoder and speaker, so it has traction tires reducing it to three axles to pick up power.
One of these days I will repaint and rebadge these to Milwaukee, but they're fine for now. Does the road and era matter to you?
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Get a Walthers pre-DCC FM switcher and cut out a chunk of weight big enough for a decoder.They are rugged, reilable, and will drag everything in the yard.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
I have a Bowser VO 1000 with loksound that I am very happy with. Modeltrainstuff has DS-4-4-1000's with sound for $218. A little less at Trainworld.
BLI has SW1500 and SW7's for $149 - 179. I've never owned a BLI and I've read of a lot of problems with various models in this forum.
Atlas has MP15DC $179 -189 at Trainworld. I have an S2 (also loksound) and am pleased with that. They will be having another run of S2's
I run dead Walther frogs, no keep alives, and have no problems, even with my Bachmann GE 45 tonner (no sound in this one)
Since you specifically mention for club use, that appears to have some meaning, that for a non-club member, like myself is not obvious.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I recommend the Atlas S2 for older eras and the MP15 for more modern eras. Neither needs a keep alive over dead Atlas or Shinohara frogs. To accomodate sound in small bodies, they might be considered light compared to older dc version switchers, but that's a matter of personal choice.
- Douglas
Seaboard I'm shopping for a current version of a diesel switcher with DCC for club use. I prefer new and current models over used. Medium to medium-high pricing ok, e.g. $150 or above.
Any particular era? Or does it matter?
If it doesn't matter...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Any of the Bowser Baldwin switchers, with or without sound. Super smooth runners.
Don't discount older ones, the P2K Alco S1 is a wonderful loco, can be found fairly low priced depending on road name, and is not hard to add DCC to. Very quiet and smooth.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BigDaddy (...) Since you specifically mention for club use, that appears to have some meaning, that for a non-club member, like myself is not obvious.
(...)
Simon
My two best running switchers are my Atlas S-2 and my Walthers H10.
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My Kato NW-2 also runs very well.
I am pretty sure the Walthers model is the only one of these that was available in DCC.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I have two HO Bachmann 44 single motor with LokSound 3.5. I run together. Same address and CV's. Did about ten years ago. Minor frame cutting to fit speaker baffle. Speaker and baffle up in one end of shell. All wiring and old electronic ripped out. Kept light bulbs.
Union Freight RR in Boston use to do that to haul 14 to 20 freight between North and South Station many years ago. Article in MR, 2001.
There is also an article on how to DCC a two motor 44 ton. I have done that.
I also have a VO-1000 with Tsunami which is quite nice.
All specs for these locos on Wikipedia. I run them at what orototype roads did.
They may not be for your era.
I ran them at our club which had all hand laid track and turnouts. No stay alives. We did not need them.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
SeeYou190My Kato NW-2 also runs very well.
Agreed, Kevin. I have two and really like them. Unfortunately, converting them to DCC is quite a process. Since the OP was looking for DCC locomotives, I left that one off the list.
My Atlas DCC/Sound SCL Alco S2 is a sweet switcher and it doesn't stall over Peco insulated frog switches.. My BLI DCC/Sound SW7 runs good,doesn't stall on my Peco switches either but,the chime horns has a annoying echo.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
If anyone is curius, here is the NW-2 install.
https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1358
I have done a similar install but used Kapton tape. Electrical tape can be messy. Just make sure all Dremel cutting is smooth. At the time I had a steady hand. I used the Dremel and a couple router bits. No sharp points to penetrate the Kapton tape. Do ohm meter checks.
Yea, that's the install tutorial I was thinking of, Rich.
I have converted one of the older Walthers SW1 switchers by extending the groove at the bottom of the chassis with an endmill then insulated it with Kapton tape. (I had access to a milling machine at work.) That's a breeze compared to a Kato NW2 conversion. It's such a beautiful runner that I would like to convert it someday.
You didn't mention an era... if you really need pulling power I would consider "heavy" switchers like the SD9 (Walthers or LL Proto) or SD38 (Athearn). (Although you did say good power "for a switcher"...)
On our layout, I often switch with a pair of Athearn SD40s (not for any prototype reason but because it's what I have). A long string of cars (say 50 or so) requires backing into the reverse loop, which has a curve and a 2% grade. Takes some muscle to shove 'em out of there! I've since picked up a pair of Proto SD9s to take over the job.
Don't forget that railroads often recycled old locomotives, so a GP7 or GP9 makes a realistic switcher. I use my Athearn GP9 for switching when I don't have to go into the reverse loop.
For sound and value, I really liked the (aptly named) Bachmann Sound Value Alco S2 and S4. They really capture the sound of the 539 engine. Pulling power is OK, but I have had problems with them on non-powered frogs -- the wheelbase isn't long enough.
Era: 50's through 70's.
I ended up with a road switcher for my first HO model. Reason being the flexible use for both mainline hauling and yard work.
I settled on an SD7 for availability based on price, region (rail line) and looks (subjective preference.)
I chose BLI because they are generally a well respected brand, I want to implement Rolling Thunder on the club layout, and their world headquarters is less than 2 hours from my house which I plan to visit soon.
Thanks all for your input.
I wouldn't have thought an SD7 would be the first choice for a switcher, at least I assumed you were looking for a yard switcher.
That said, D&RGW used a chop nose SD9 #5305 for a yard switcher in Grande Junction - on the hump I believe, so it's not unheard of.
It would be cool if a model company offered a low nose or chop nose SD9. The switcher D&RGW used was converted to chop nose after an accident and was used in Grande Junction for a number of years.
Actually I didn't realize there was such a thing as a "road switcher." Since I began this new enterprise with only one engine, I thought it best to have a multi-tasking unit. Makes sense?
CHARTER MEMBER OF THE MILWAUKEE FALLEN FLAG MODEL TRAIN CLUB . I COLLECT HO, N , O-3rail & On30 Trains & run them ! I Use KATO HO & N scale Track . I also Use Lionel Fast Track ! I change track layouts Often !
Seaboard Actually I didn't realize there was such a thing as a "road switcher."
Actually I didn't realize there was such a thing as a "road switcher."
It's a pretty common term I have heard over the years, and IIRC I've seen it used in my Rio Grande Diesels books as well.
Since I began this new enterprise with only one engine, I thought it best to have a multi-tasking unit. Makes sense?
Sure, but your original post didn't convey that which is why most of the responses were recommending traditional yard switchers.
My knowledge and preferences have evolved with new information. That's what makes this hobby so addictive and compelling. Not all of us are born knowing all the lingo.
SeaboardNot all of us are born knowing all the lingo.
I've been a train nut since I was a wee ladd, but naturally wasn't born knowing the lingo either. Why, just yesterday I learned a new term "puzzle switch".
You'll probably see the term road switcher if your stay in the hobby or read some books.
The D&RGW GP9's were considered road switchers and by the wiki definition, they seemed to fit that definition pretty well. I believe their RS-3's were as well.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Road_switcher
I'll hae to consult my Rio Grande Diesels book as to how they referred to the SD7 and SD9 diesels. Been a while since I read up on them.
riogrande5761I wouldn't have thought an SD7 would be the first choice for a switcher, at least I assumed you were looking for a yard switcher.
A SD7/9 is a excellent choice for a yard switcher since they have lots of pulling power. PRR use them on urban locals in Columbus.
I took this photo when I was around 13 or 14. This is a West Columbus urban local making a reverse move to a urban industrial lead.. Notice the engineer is sitting sideways and looking backward. Note the wooden reefer.
BRAKIENotice the engineer is sitting sideways and looking backward.
I can't tell which way the engineer is facing, but I can tell you that since that's a Pennsy SD7, it's going forwards. :) Maybe the engineer is getting a breath of fresh air?
BRAKIE riogrande5761 I wouldn't have thought an SD7 would be the first choice for a switcher, at least I assumed you were looking for a yard switcher. A SD7/9 is a excellent choice for a yard switcher since they have lots of pulling power. PRR use them on urban locals in Columbus.
riogrande5761 I wouldn't have thought an SD7 would be the first choice for a switcher, at least I assumed you were looking for a yard switcher.
You didn't quote the other part of the same post for credit.
That said, D&RGW used a chop nose SD9 #5305 for a yard switcher in Grande Junction
Like some, I assumed that when the OP said "shopping for a locomotive with DCC", that he meant it came DCC equipped from the factory. Most DCC equipped locos come with onboard sound, so that was the angle of my response.
Its possible to get New Old Stock Atlas Master Series DCC equipped locos, which would be probably the best running DCC equipped locos to be found. Bachmann still makes DCC equipped locos, but their simple decoders makes any of their diesels poor buys, IMO.
I think Intermountain makes a GP10 and a U18B with DCC only. I'm not aware of any other brands currently producing diesel locomotives with DCC-only (not sound equipped).
Of course, as many have suggested, any loco can be converted to DCC so the options are wide open if OP takes that route. As some have mentioned, installing a decoder in some locos is easier than others.
I model 2009, so I use an Atlas Genset model (Kato motor) or a Kato SD40-2. Both great pullers, work well over frogs, and smooth runners.
Dan