Hi all,
When you add new decals to a model and then want to weather it, which do you do first....spray the decals first with a flat finish and then weather, or, weather right over the new decals and then spray the model with a flat finish?
JRP
Hi, JRP
In most cases I have found that I have to give the entire car a thin coat of gloss finish, even if I used a glossy finish paint (Scalecoat) in order to give an even surface for the flat finish afterward.
I have had cases where the decal shine still shows even after several coats of flat finish (Dullcote or others).
Then I begin the weathering process, generally covering the larger areas first, the roof and underframe, then go on to a paint fade, then finally specific details such as rust spots, oil spills (diesels) or steam leaks, which leave a white, calcium stain on the boiler in certain places.
Lately I have been using more powdered finishes (Pan-Pastel) for the general over-all weathering. Sometimes, a flat coat over the powder will make the coloring disappear so I generally don't give another coat over the powder. It depends on how heavy I want the rust/fade to look.
Good Luck, Ed
As Ed said, seal the decals first with gloss, then add flat. After that you can weather.
A flat coating generally helps give "tooth" for the weathering to stick better.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I have almost zero experience with weathering, but from what I've seen in videos and read is that you may need apply different gloss, flat coats, etc depending on the type of weathering you are doing (meaning are you using oils, and airbrush, weathering powders, etc.). That said the OP may want to mention what they intend to weather and what techniques they wish to use.
Of course I know very little, just trying to help others give the OP a better response. I am sure the others responses are accurate!
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
I agree that a gloss coat over the newly-applied decals is a good procedure, as it makes the gloss of the decal film the same as the gloss on which the decals were applied.After that, apply the flat or semi-gloss finish of choice, or, in some cases, weather directly over the gloss. I do all three options on steam locomotives, using several shades of "black", then applying flat and gloss, and various versions of semi-gloss, to different parts and areas of the locomotive and tender. As on the prototype, the weathering is applied over those finishes, just as weathering would occur on real locos.For weathering, I airbrush using severely-thinned paint (90/95% thinner) and/or artists' oil-based pastels, applied with a brush. I don't apply any clear finish over the weathering.
Here's a couple of well-maintained Mikados. Not new and shiny, but not old and clapped-out, either...
I modified and painted this Broadway Mike for a friend...
...then weathered it, by degrees, to the state that was requested...
For freight cars, I usually Dullcote them before weathering, but for models representing fairly new cars, a low-sheen semi-gloss can be effective to give a new (but not too new) look to a car...
Wayne
Hello JRP,
Ed and Doc are spot-on with their excellent posts above. The only thing I can add is that it's good to allow a good amount of time for the closs finish to COMPLETELY harden....especially if you're painting in humid or cool weather conditions.
Years back, on one occasion, I applied clear to a shell in a room with no temperature control during the early spring period. Temperatue was about 70F. When the temperature dropped dramatically that evening (in the 50F range), the clearcoat on the locomotive shell softened slightly (touch test on unnoticeable areas). I gave it an extra day to harden, which worked out Ok. This also taught me a lesson about thinning clear properly and airbrushing it on in thin layers.
I'm with Doc in that I don't seal my weathering. I like to retain the ability to easily modify, or remove it.
High Greens
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
SPSOT fan I have almost zero experience with weathering, but from what I've seen in videos and read is that you may need apply different gloss, flat coats, etc depending on the type of weathering you are doing (meaning are you using oils, and airbrush, weathering powders, etc.). That said the OP may want to mention what they intend to weather and what techniques they wish to use. Of course I know very little, just trying to help others give the OP a better response. I am sure the others responses are accurate!
Yes, the type of material you're using for weathering is important. This is also true of the car(s) in question, industry, and location (among other considerations).
I have a bit of knowledge weathering. Applying Dullcoat removes the new-car shine. Even on new cars (1-2 years before my era period), I make them look a bit weathered. My wife reminds me constantly that less is more, so true of weathering in this case!