What airbrushs are you guys using? I'm in the market for a new one and was curious what is easy to use yet good quality?
Another vote for the Paasche VL. I've been using mine for almost 40 years. Easy to change colours while painting with paints of the same type, and and only a bit more work if changing to a different type of paint. I use the colour cup only for cleaning, whether between paint-type changes or at the end of a painting session, always with lacquer thinner as the cleaning agent, regardless of the type of paint being used.I also made a siphon cap to fit full-size Floquil and Polly Scale bottles, as most painting sessions are for multiple cars and/or locomotives, and structures, too.
Clean-up is fast and easy.
Wayne
I use an Iwata Eclipse dual-action airbrush that has the syphon cup built right into the chrome body. The cup also has a lid that eliminates paint spills, too. It's the best airbrush that I've ever owned and does a great job from light feathering to solid spraying.
Russ
Modeling the early '50s Erie in Paterson, NJ. Here's the link to my railroad postcard collection: https://railroadpostcards.blogspot.com/
I have a couple Badger 200Hs. One with a fine tip, the other with a medium tip. I also have one I bought from a now defunct company called Airbrush City that has a medium tip. I bought it as a set that included the airbrush, compressor and hose. They are all single action brushes and they all work quite well.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I have a Paasche, single action. Use only craft paints.
Works very well for what I do.
I have the Badger 155 double action, I love it. I also have a single action Badger which I use for more general purpose type work, scenery etc.
I have several airbrushes. I use my Paasche Model H for 90% of what I do. It is all metal and very easy to clean.
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If I were to only buy one, it would be that one.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
As the OP can see here, it's going to be eenie meanie miny moe - quite the variety of airbrushes. May not help to ask here with so many different answers and no clear winner. Welcome to MR forums where 4 out of 5 models don't agree on a single product.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Perhaps a better question is what type to get.
If I only had one airbrush, it would be a single action external mix, like a Badger 350 or Paasche Model H. I have owned a couple of each of these. They are easier to keep clean, set up and break down quickly, and for 90% of what you do, they will produce acceptable results.
My first "real" airbrush was a Badger model 150 internal mix dual action airbrush. It was too hard to learn for my first airbrushing, and I gave up for a while.
SeeYou190I have several airbrushes. I use my Paasche Model H for 90% of what I do. It is all metal and very easy to clean.
Ditto for the model H. I just bought a new tip and needle for $10 (#3) and it is like having a brand new airbrush. There is a packing gland in there that can dry out and it is cheaper to simply replace the whole assembly.
For finer detail work and weathering I use the VL and for even finer work the Paasche Talon.
Regards, Ed
+1 for the Paasche Model H
I've had mine for 25+ years. IMO, a double action is overkill for routine painting. I wouldn't go for the extra cost and steeper learning curve unless I was doing something more artsy.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
what was your old brush ? were you happy with it ?
if yes to question two then get a somthing like it for a replacment .
i have 3 paasche's a talon ts that i won at a drawing wouldn't buy one , a old g that is my go to brush and a very old f all three are good , i also have several HF external mix that work ok.
another vote for the basic Paasche model H
I have badger 200s
Badger has a service that cleans plugged up Badger brushes. $12 for cleaning up to 3 brushes covers labor and return shipping. If parts need replacing, that is extra. Excellent service; I have used it a number of times, air brushes were returned like new.
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Service-Supprt.asp
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Hi Dmmr714,
Doc Wayne is correct in that you will see a variety of choices when it comes to model railroaders (and not just on this forum).
Good news is that all of the airbrushes mentioned, so far, are decent performers. Even the single action Harbor Freight units are not bad at all if you are on a tight budget. At the very least, the HF units are superior to the old "Walmart $16 plastic airbrushes" of the early 2000's. In case they're still produced, I respectfully advise ALL modelers to avoid those plastic dregs!
I have 5 airbrushes, however, I regularly turn to my two Paasche' double-action VLs for the majority of model paint jobs. ( I have 2 due to one being dedicated for metalizing only) .
The VL is a durable and reliable workhorse with good atomization qualities. The kit (price averages $65-$72) includes 2 jars, a hose, and 3 needle & aircap setups that are simple to change out. #1 (very fine), #3 (medium to fine), #5 (for more viscous paint material). My favorite featue about the VL is that with the scroll lock wheel; it enables you to instantly turn it into a "point-and-shoot" single-action unit, if you wish.
I'm just listing my general preference but agree that there are other models that are just as good and better on the market. I've used a variety including Badger and Iwata.
Most important requirement for an airbrush to last is for the owner to keep it clean and properly maintained!
I've read of modelers complaining about "The Chore" of cleaning an airbrush. Makes me scratch my head since it takes me between 1 and 2 minutes to flush out, wipe the needle, wipe the aircap, and reassemble.
High Greens
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
for Badger Factory Service. The spigot on my airbrush broke. They gave me a whole new airbrush body, only charging the $12 for postage.
I only recently saw a video where I noticed there was a cap that covered the top of bowl, on those airburshes that use that, instead of a paint jar. Never knew there was a cap. I always thought an open bowl would be a guaranteed spill. I'm not sure all come with that though.
Mine is single action. While it was in the shop, I really wanted to paint a structure I was building. I bought a HF. The paint jars are not interchangeable with Badger and I thought it was hard to control. Maybe it was how I mixed the paint that day, but I had to increase the paint mix as I worked.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
AntonioFP45....I've read of modelers complaining about "The Chore" of cleaning an airbrush. Makes me scratch my head since it takes me between 1 and 2 minutes to flush out, wipe the needle, wipe the aircap, and reassemble.
I agree on the "chore" business: a lot of baloney. A cleaning for a colour change is 10 seconds to shoot some lacquer thinner through - no disassembly necessary.For a switch to a different type of paint (lacquer to acrylic, f'rinstance) is a couple of minutes, and that's a complete tear-down and re-assembly: air cap, air cap body, tip, needle, rocker assembly, and finger lever assembly. I use a pipe cleaner, dipped in lacquer thinner to clean both paint- and air passages, and also to clean the siphon cap for the jar(s). Lacquer thinner works for cleaning pretty-well any type of paint from an airbrush.I use the same procedure for cleaning at the end of a painting session, too.When I got my Paasche VL, the stock siphon cap fit Floquil, Polly S, Pollyscale, and Testors bottles, although when I ordered a second one, supposedly for a VL, the one I got was too large for any of those bottles. I took the siphon tube and head out of the too-large cap and put it into a standard Pollyscale cap. I also lengthened the siphon tube so I could use it with the taller bottles. It would be easy enough to modify to suit almost any bottle, I think.
The VL is the only airbrush I have ever owned - learned on it and use it often.