Are these powders and women' facial powders the same just wondering
Just a guess here, but I'd say the stuff made for skin application has more oils and binders in it.
The Pan-Pastel stuff has some binders in it but just enough for it to stick. Then, the other powders, like Bragdon, etc. are more powder with hardly any waxy binder. You really have to "seal" those with an over coat of clear medium which often dissipates the powder.
I have used some cosmetic makeup as weathering but didn't care much for the results. Of course, the color selection of the Pan-Pastels are geared more toward artists and, of course, our model requirements.
These work best on a matte surface so you have to apply a coat of Dullcoat or similar, in order for the powder to "grip" the surface.
Cheers, Ed
Not to get off topic, but I've had decent success with the artist quality pastel sticks. I shave off what color I need with the Exacto knive, and mix with a brush.
I tried the women's stuff once, not real happy, colors not what I wanted, but I do like the little soft make-up sponges!
Mike.
My You Tube
mbinsewi Not to get off topic, but I've had decent success with the artist quality pastel sticks. I shave off what color I need with the Exacto knive, and mix with a brush. Mike.
I also use artists' oil-based pastels. They're not noticeably oily, but have enough that the powders will bind quite well to your models, and don't smudge or cause fingerprints when handling them.They come in stick-form, round or square in cross-section, and often wrapped in paper, like a crayon. I get mine at an art supply store, and the nice thing is that they can be bought individually, rather than only in sets. They're also very affordable.To create the powder, I simply rub the stick(s) over some coarse sandpaper, then dump the resultant powder into a suitable container - I use the clear plastic portion of bubble wrapped small items, such as that for Krazy Glue, and use a variety of brushes to apply the powder. If you're not satisfied with the results, you can wipe away, or in some cases, wash off, the powders and start again.I usually use them in conjunction with airbrushed weathering, as on- and in this gondola, scratchbuilt on a Tichy flatcar...
...an Accurail boxcar...
...an Athearn hopper (C-D-S lettering)
Wayne
Wayne: I hope you will take this with a light heart and great respect. As I have said I have watched Doc Wayne produce some of the best pics of modeling without a doubt. Now, on to the topic. I started using pastel chalks and coloring sticks, 20-25 years ago and I have liked them ever since. Easy to work with, I just shave some off into a separate jar and screw on the tops. I actually use Pimento jars to store my colors. Use a soft brush to apply the colors.
I did this steam engine some many years ago, around 2003 and posted it on this site for all to see. Well, Wayne saw it and thought maybe a little over done and it was, so I have just used it anyway and let it run, touching it and handling it and over time it now looks like this.
So, what do you think? Dr. Wayne made a very good point, pastels can work well but sometimes they can be over done and you end up adding to much of a good thing, but over time it does wear off.
Remember I say all of this with great respect and I thank Wayne for his sincere and objective points, well taken, thank you sir.
Robert Sylvester
Newberry-Columbia, SC
Robert, I hope that I didn't actually say that your weathering was overdone, because how you, or anybody else, does their weathering should be to their own standards, not to mine. I suspect that if I did comment, it may have been to remark that it was heavier than I might have done, but I would not criticise a fellow modeller for what they prefer, nor would I suggest that my way was better.I have been criticised (quite respectfully) for weathering my locomotives too lightly, and I do understand that in many cases it could be considered not credible. It is, however, how I remember (or perhaps choose to remember) steam....I was in my early teens when steam ended here in Canada.
I suspect that time and handling has muted the weathering on your locomotive, Robert, so you'll get no criticism from me, as I've done more heavily weathered locos than that for myself and for several other people, too...
I use pastel sticks as well, and purchased a cheap cheese grater which I use to grind the sticks into powder.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Wayne: Point well taken, and you are right, there needs to be some additional weathering to the running gear to make it more plausable and real. As you said, need to be careful and not interfere with the running of the engine.
By the way I have tried airbrushing but it sometimes is to combursome and I have found that the powered chalk and such gives pretty much what I want and I am satisfied with that. I have watched the experts from MR demonstrate airbrushing but with my eye sight now the chalks do very well for me.
Love your pictures, great examples what can be done with a little care.