need help with an elavation question?to help a friend.

[Anonymous]

my friend has asked me for help on a question of elavation. he is starting a model railroad he has a room 15x10 aprox. He wants to build a shelf layout aprox 44"high around the wall. but has two obstacles in his way.He has a self and a doorway. (both at opposite ends) he is not sure about how to elevate the train above the doorway with a heilx . he wants to avoid a duck threw section or a lift out section as he would like to elavate it over the door entrance way. The shelf is midway between the two points of elavation and can help assist the reduction of the helix climb. I wondering is a climb to steep considering the short distance involved in the room dimentions . causing engines to over heat? can this be accomplished? is there a better answer? Back to elavation. can elavation rise be easily answered refering to a standerd section of flex track ? in order to create a 2% grade on a standard flex track (aprox 3") how much elavation would you need in a3"section? What would be the ideal overal average radius of the helix climb to be able to haul aprox 10 to 30 rolling stock continuiosly up and down this type of grade. aprox 30" of elavation. with out overheating? or does a properly layed radius and climb prevent overheating? any input would be appreciated thanks![:)]

[cacole]

First of all, you don't indicate scale. A helix with a shelf layout is not practical in HO because a helix would need to be around 40 inches in diameter to accommodate an 18 inch radius curve, which is the smallest recommended for HO. As far as the grade is concerned, a 2-inch rise in 100 inches would be a two percent grade, which is the steepest recommended for HO scale. Anything steeper and you won't be able to pull anywhere near 10 pieces of rolling stock.

[darth9x9]

Instead of a lift-out section, how about a lift-up section? One end would be hinged like on a bar (place where people drink). I would avoid the helix solution at all costs just to get over the door.

[Fergmiester]

QUOTE: Originally posted by darth9x9

Instead of a lift-out section, how about a lift-up section? One end would be hinged like on a bar (place where people drink). I would avoid the helix solution at all costs just to get over the door.

This to me is your best fix. I've seen it done, several articles have been written on it and if you check out John Wood's (Der5997) railimages sight there is a picture showing what he has done.

Helixes take up huge amounts of realestate. In terms of HO you would be looking at a
3' x 3' + block on each side of the door devoted to it. The swing arm be it up or out , would be my recommendation.

Fergie