Scenicking to the edge of buildings

[BigDaddy]

30 years ago, my model railroad didn't have a lot of sophisticated scenery. Buildings were set on top of ground foam. 

Looking at Mel's thread on securing buildings, he has scenicked up to the edge but not under.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/272891.aspx

That makes sense to me because you avoid unwanted lumps and bumps where the building meets the layout and you get the colors/textures you need exactly where you need them.

My technique for doing an open area is not suitable for working right next to a building (spraying alcohol/water) dusting on ground foam.

What are your tips and techniques?

[saronaterry]

Set the structure. Apply your scenery materials of choice. Carefully remove structure. Apply your adhesive system. Replace structure.

Works for me. Sometimes I need to do some touch up.

 I'd go downstairs for a photo, but I received a new right hip on Monday.

Hope this gives you some ideas, anyway.

Terry

[RR_Mel]

On flat/level terrain I just outline the structure with a pencil and scenic up to the line.  On irregulator ground I make a permanent bottom plate glued in place the exact size of the structure so that there won’t be any gaps.

 

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[HO-Velo]

With a static grass applicator one can make large tufts on a cookie sheet.  Tufts might not be the right word, as they are a couple inches or so long and an inch or so wide.  I suppose even bigger could be made.  They can be easily cut to fit different areas mosaic style, great for small patches and coming up against a structure, walkway, etc.  The vacant lot pictured was done via this method.

Regards,  Peter

[mbinsewi]

I do a combo of all of the above.  Mostly Terry and Mel's method, but I have made pre-made strips like what Peter talks about.

Close-up around buildings, I use an eye dropper to apply any adhesive, and maybe some tacky glue for trees and bushes.

All of my structures can be removed without disturbing surrounding scenery.  Some are designed to be easily removed to gain access to the hidden track I have.

Mike.

[RR_Mel]

Henry

 

I’ve tried the spray method several times but never had much luck doing it that way.  I use a Hair Product squeeze bottle with Elmer’s All Purpose White Glue 1 to 8 water mix to secure the Woodlands Scenics flocking.  The nozzle on the bottle has a .02" hole and can be used like an eyedropper or with a little pressure a pretty good stream.

 

 

I wet the surface with the mix then apply the flocking.

 

I also use Hair Product squeeze bottles to apply the flocking.

 

 

By cutting the nozzles to different lengths the hole size can be made larger depending on the material to be applied.

 

 

By filling the bottles half way you can blow the flocking on the wetted area by squeezing the bottles.  That works very good for pinpointing the area to be flocked.  It also allows small portions of blending flocking as an overlay.

 

The squeeze bottles also work great for applying Arizona Rock material again cutting the nozzles for the correct amount of delivery.

 

 

 

I tried more times than I want to remember using paints to make a pond and failed every time. I finally went with my regular flocking method and I think it turned out pretty good.

 

 

 

I used Parks Super Glaze for the water.  My only regret is I didn’t put any fish in the pond.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[Medina1128]

RR_Mel

Henry

 

 

By cutting the nozzles to different lengths the hole size can be made larger depending on the material to be applied.

 

 

By filling the bottles half way you can blow the flocking on the wetted area by squeezing the bottles.  That works very good for pinpointing the area to be flocked.  It also allows small portions of blending flocking as an overlay.

 

 

 

I used Parks Super glaze for the water.  My only regret is I didn’t put any fish in the pond.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

 

To apply ground foam in tight places, I put some in a folded index card and gently blow it on. Then, wet and glue. I liked the idea of using hair tint bottles, and my girlfriend had just re-blonded her hair this weekend. The trashman came this morning. 

[josephbw]

I also mark around the structure with a pencil. Then I put masking tape just on the inside of the pencil line. When I'm done making grass, gravel, dirt, etc., I peel up the tape (at a 45° angle away from the scenery) while everything is still wet. After it's all dry, I set the structure in place, and I'm done.

[BigDaddy]

Medina1128

To apply ground foam in tight places, I put some in a folded index card and gently blow it on.

Gerry Leone uses this technique with a straw.  I'll have to get some of those bottles.

[7j43k]

Most/all buildings I install rest on foundations.  The foundation is a permanent part of the layout.  The buildings lift off.  I do not use magnets; I build the building so that the siding comes down over the foundation a bit.  Like real buildings.

So.

I lift off the building and do my scenery.

That might be tricky if I want ivy growing up the side.  I'll deal with that when it happens.

 

Ed

[rrebell]

you can always wrap the bottom in platic wrap. Me, I set the building, mark it, put in scraps of wood or plastic on what will be the inside so that I have a marker for setting the building (most are removable). Then I do basic ground cover, the mostly flat stuff and after reseating the building use foam bushes or whatever near the building.