I have mostly older HO locomotives that dont have the best pulling power. Some have rubber traction tires. Is it best to use them on all non-power transmitting wheels to get best traction? Or is there a rule to how to apply them?
As far as I know, all traction tires are factory installed. So you get whatever they give you.
I prefer not to have them. Others feel differently.
Ed
have you considered adding weight to the locomotive?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
When to use traction tires? Never! Use the use locomotive market to upgrade your locomotive fleet to eliminate traction tires..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Our club layout has many grades. I have a number of steam engines and those with rubber tires definitely run better there. Double-heading achieves similar results, but my locos are not yet all speed-matched.
Simon
If you are operating strictly in DC, you can probably use Bull Frog Snot. You invert the locomotive, apply power using clips and wires so that the drivers spin, if that can be done reasonably easily, and use a tooth pick to 'paint' two tire surfaces with the 'snot'. Let it cure at least a couple of hours, and then try it out.
If you have traction tires, fill the grooves with the 'snot'. I would let that increased thickness cure at least 12 hours, though.
Traction tires only work on wheels that were made for traction tires. These units usually only have two wheel drive and need the rubber tires. They have wheels that are designed to hold the tires in place. Locomotives with all wheel drive use all of the wheels for electrical pickup and putting rubber wheels on them means less electrical pickup. Also the tires won’t stay on the rims because the rims are not made for them and the wheels won’t stay on the track because the tires are the same height as the flanges. Do what the real railroads do and add another locomotive instead.
I have only one engine with traction tires. It's a 4-axle diesel switcher from Walthers. It's got DCC and sound, but to make room for the decoder and speakers, they left out any extra weight. This would not work well except for the traction tires.
My small locos and trolleys have driven me to power most of my frogs, so I don't have power pickup issues with the switcher, but that can be a problem with traction tires.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Traction tires only work on wheels that were made for traction tires. These units usually only have two wheel drive and need the rubber tires. They have wheels that are designed to hold the tires in place. Locomotives with all wheel drive use all of the wheels for electrical pickup and putting rubber wheels on them means less electrical pickup. Also the tires won’t stay on the rims because the rims are not made for them and the wheels won’t stay on the track because the tires are the same height as the flanges. Do what the real railroads do and add another locomotive instead.
This pretty much sums it up. To accept a traction tire, the wheels need a groove. If they are designed with a groove for the tire, but you leave the tire off, the contact with the rail is reduced, which has a negative impact on the pulling power.
Some BLI steam engines offered you the choice by including a driver set without traction tires (the default) and one with tires that you could install yourself if desired. The only loco with traction tires I own is the cab unit of the Con-Cor Aerotrain. And it really needs those even on moderate inclines. Well, you can argue that that feature is actually prototypical, as also the prototype Aerotrain had a miserable performance on inclines (The solution: GM should have used traction tires!??).
Ok thanks all. Most of my locomotives, and all the ones I'm talking about here, are from my childhood. I've slowly been getting them all running again. Sounds like I'll try it through a combination of traction tires (where available) and added weight (havent tried that yet)!
Goody "ouchless" elastic hair bands (buy the multi-size pack) can be a replacement for many traciton tires if they are worn out.
As has been said, if you've got a loco with the slots for traction tires, you should use traction tires. Modifying the locos to run without traction tires will -at the very least- require new wheels (or they'll lean a bit) and may also require additional weights or even more extensive repowering.
Traction tires often are what allow older, underpowered locos to function properly.
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If I remember my old Tyco F7 locomotives from the 1970s they had two traction tires on the right rear. The electrical pickup was the left rear and the right front. I added a lot of weight to the rear so they could pull the train up an extremely steep grade.