Having bought my first Athearn Blue Box diesel in many years, I thought it might be time to type up a refresher coarse on what upgrades and mods need done to this old girls for the newbies in the hobby. IMHO these are still some of the best and most durable models on the market, then and now. The drives and metal handrails are nearly bomb proof compared to todays super fragile plastic handrails and super detailing the models come with.
Quartets of blue box SD9s slugged it out on the 2.5% ruling grade at the local club hauling unit coal trains actually loaded with coal, then black beauty sand blasting sand(less dust issues). So real tonnage. Anyways, our canidate for modifiying is an SD9 sporting the metal side frame style trucks, older "ring" magnet motor w/steel flywheels and a custom DM&IR paint scheme.
First order of business is to replace the metal contact strip between the motor and the truck contacts. I solder wire to both the trucks at the motor contact strip, some flux paste helps, especially with the trucks. You want to get in and get out fast so you do not get things to hot. The second item I like to improve is the bolster to truck electrical path. I have seen many of these engines stutter as they enter and exit curves as the truck swivels on its pin. I add wires soldered from the ground side of the truck frame to the headlight bracket to help this contact by providing a more stable path for current to flow. If your going DCC, then these wires would go to your decoder, along with removing the contact tabs under the motor.
If your doing DCC, make sure to pick up some new rubber motor mount feet from Hobbytown USA or from any Horizon Hobbies dealer. Most likely yours will be rock hard from age and will fall apart or refuse to stay in the frame holes again after they are removed. I then lubricate the whole model, light machine oil for the side frame bearings(outboard for the metal side frames, inboard of the wheels for plastic side frame models) and a heavier oil for the internal gearing so it does not just get slung off the gears when running. I then run the chassis sans the shell for an hour in each direction to wake up everything and see how hot the motor runs. If all is well, add your favorite couplers and put the snap the shell back on.
My engine got a couple extra details, a 5 chime horn and high hood bell pre DM&IR practice and I will upgrade to a single LED in each end for lighting once I get some more 1K ohm resistors(I do not use DCC). On the SD9 models, you will find the brake shoes on the long hood end tend to foul the steps on tighter radius curves. I remove some of the brake shoe arm on each side frame to cure this issue and it cannot be seen once the shell is back on the model. My SD9 goes around 15" radius Atlas Snap Track with ease, even pulling that short caboose. Yeah I know the hood is to wide, so were many other Athearn and brass models back then to allow the motors to fit back then. But together they look fine, just dont mix in a scale hood Proto2k model. Some blue box diesels need the old toothpaste and drops of water in the trucks to quiet down the gears a bit. But most do fine with some good break in time pulling tonnage on your railroad. If you get one that really seems to vibrate, remove the motor and run it with test leads in your hand. I have found those tend to have miss drilled flywheels and this creates a nice vibration and thus noise. New Flywheels cures this issue. The Athearn motors are pretty quiet and bomb proof by design. Mike the Aspie
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
Some guys will say to rewheel them with nickel silver wheelsets from NWSL. Thats fine, but they become very slippery if your used to what they can pull with the sintered iron wheelsets. Having a Kaydee wheel cleaner(split wire brush that you clip to powered track to clean engine wheels) and a Dremel with a wire brush, cleaning wheels is not a huge issue. Having all metal wheels in your rolling stock will help also keep locomotive wheels clean. We might have cleaned the SD9's wheels at the club once a year, if even that often. They worked hard enough that wheel sets stayed pretty clean. So replacing the wheels is a personal choice and your milage may vary. Mike the Aspie
emdmikeSome guys will say to rewheel them with nickel silver wheelsets from NWSL
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Mike, can you edit your original post with some paragraph breaks please. It is very hard fot me to read.
I have several Athearn Blue Box locomotives, and I really like a lot about them.
Athearn offers pre-assembled upgraded wheels/axle assemblies complete with new bearings for older blue box diesels. I installed them on my PAs and love them.
No need at all to retire these reliable workhorses.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Lemme add a few more things. The stock Athearn electrical hookup, the long stringy metal strip snapped onto the top of the motor and L shaped strips on the trucks that rub on the long strip can get flakey. More reliable is a hard wired connection. Your hardware store carries crimp on terminal lugs called "1/4 inch Fastons" that will slip nicely over the L shaped strips on the trucks. Crimp some wire into the Fastons, and solder the far ends of the wires to the long top strip. You can unsnap the top strip from the motor and do th soldering on the bench, just to avoid overheating anything. The top strip is made of stainless steel. It will solder, but it will give you trouble. Clean the surface real well with solvent, use rosin flux, and a lot of heat. I used a 125 watt soldering gun. For extra class you can run jumpers from the frame (Athearns are hot chassis) to the trucks. You need to drill and tap holes for screws, the frame and the trucks are Zamac and cannot be soldered. I didn't bother with that last step and my Athearns run steady. The fastons permit you to disassemble the trucks without getting out the soldering iron, a good timer saver.
A lot of the gear noise comes from the gear towers. Tiny, almost invisible bits of plastic flash get into the gears and make them noisy. I quieted mine down by taking the gear towers all apart, cleaning all the old grease out of them with solvent, wiping each tooth of each gear with a clean pipe cleaner, and relubing and reassumbling. The pipe cleaner alway showed a few tiny bits of flash afterwards.
Lastly, the stock Athearn headlamp bulbs shine out the cab windows. For the F units, a small tube rolled out of white paper will guide the light to the headlamp lens and prevent it from showing in the cab windows. For hood units mount the bulbs inside the hoods right close to the lenses. And you can treat the locomotives to the classic 4 diode constant brightness circuit.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I myself like to drop in a can motor and new flywheels, which really drops the amp draw before installing DCC.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
I did my best to seperate things into paragraphs for ya Kev. The headlights and how to make them better depends on the model. F units need a whole new set up that puts the bulb or LED's down in the nose where they belong. The SD9 is ok where its at in the high short nose, but is way to dim at normal/sane speeds. The later GP series and SD40s with the low short hood need a differnet sent up unless you like the whole cab lighted up. A short piece of brass tubing set in place behind the stock lenses, then a bulb or LED can be inserted. Or you can use the 1.5vt micro bulbs and a constant lighting circuit. All a personal preferance. For my set up, I plan to use a pair of Minitronics yelglow golden white LED's with a 1K ohm resistor(for track power use). By nature the LED is dependant on polarity, so by setting them up correctly, they make their own directional circuit. I mount mine to the top strip of the motor and aim them at the stock lenses in the shell. Then there are no wires going to the shell to deal with when I take it off to service the engine. I keep the sintered iron wheels in mine, never had a problem, so why spend the money and loose pulling power? I solder all my wires, no crimps, no clips, those are all points to fail, work loose or start drawing resistance. A good solid solder joint is what I prefer. I use a weller soldering station that is designed for electronics work to solder.
Bayfield Transfer Railway I myself like to drop in a can motor and new flywheels, which really drops the amp draw before installing DCC.
emdmikeSome guys will say to rewheel them with nickel silver wheelsets from NWSL. Thats fine, but they become very slippery if your used to what they can pull with the sintered iron wheelsets. ...
I agree, Mike...nothing wrong with those original wheels, especially if pulling power is important on your layout.
Wayne
I come from where if its not broke, dont fix it! I have never had issues with the original Athearn wheels, only traction issues with engines that have been converted and I didnt know as yardmaster. Put the standard lashup of power and then have the train stall on the grade. Then I had to dig my pusher team out and send them down the lead to shove the train up the hill.
As another upgrade, what does anybody think of the Ernst Manufacturing Inc. Super Gearing for Athearn 4-axel diesels pt.#0-4 (44?) and 6 axel diesels pt.#0-6?
PC101As another upgrade, what does anybody think of the Ernst Manufacturing Inc. Super Gearing for Athearn 4-axel diesels pt.#0-4 (44?) and 6 axel diesels pt.#0-6?
I would only use the Ernst gears in a locomotive that is dedicated to yard work and only runs alone.
SeeYou190 PC101 As another upgrade, what does anybody think of the Ernst Manufacturing Inc. Super Gearing for Athearn 4-axel diesels pt.#0-4 (44?) and 6 axel diesels pt.#0-6? . I would only use the Ernst gears in a locomotive that is dedicated to yard work and only runs alone. . -Kevin .
PC101 As another upgrade, what does anybody think of the Ernst Manufacturing Inc. Super Gearing for Athearn 4-axel diesels pt.#0-4 (44?) and 6 axel diesels pt.#0-6?
For sure. One F7 and one SW1500, for me, these modification's date back to maybe late '70's. A kid with little money and did not need/want two engines to pull one train. Ha ha two engines for one train, what a waste of funds.
doctorwayne emdmike Some guys will say to rewheel them with nickel silver wheelsets from NWSL. Thats fine, but they become very slippery if your used to what they can pull with the sintered iron wheelsets. ... I agree, Mike...nothing wrong with those original wheels, especially if pulling power is important on your layout. Wayne
emdmike Some guys will say to rewheel them with nickel silver wheelsets from NWSL. Thats fine, but they become very slippery if your used to what they can pull with the sintered iron wheelsets. ...
For my six-axle diesels, I replaced the wheels on 4 axles with new ones from NWSL, and kept the originals on 2 for extra friction. The track at our club is not the cleanest, despite all my efforts to keep things shiny. The old Athearns get cluttered pretty quickly!
Simon
I agree with Simon, the old sintered Athearn blue box wheels tend to pick up dirt more quickly than turned or N/S wheels.
My assessment having been in the hobby since the 1970's based on todays perspective is that Athearn blue box engines would make great projects for retirees or folks who need low cost engines and have the time to put into them.
OTOH, for me anyway, with limited hobby time, and far more things on my honey-do list, let alone building a layout, I've sold off nearly all of my blue box Athearn engines. I think I have one or two left in pieces in boxes that might get worked on after I retire and get the urge to spend time tinkering, time I don't have for that presently.
For some reason I don't really have that much notstalgia for them because my experience with them has not been very positive next to the choices we have in the past 15-20 years.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I have a large number (20+) Athearn BB diesels and I have been polishing up the wheels lately by chucking each 1/2 axle in my benchtop drill press and using Mothers wheel polish to smooth the sintered wheel surfaces with a piece of sponge, then cleaning them with Super Clean or 91 alcohol. It improves the electrical contact with the rail and reduces dirt accumulation significantly. There is a video or two on You Tube showing this process. At nominal cost, just a small jar of polish and a dry kitchen sponge, you can improve the wheels almost to the level of buying replacements. If you are retired or have the time, its a nice easy project to do.
Cedarwoodron
Kadee makes a wheel cleaner? That's a pretty good idea, my club uses a alcohol soaked paper towel laid over the tracks and cleaning one truck at a time.
Getting electrical contact is sometimes a challenge, this could alleviate the issue.
Great idea about the BB btw.
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
Some times not messing with them is the best path to take..I have a 25 year GP7 that retains its stock pickup simply becaise it performed smoothly from the box at low switching speeds.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
NWP SWP Kadee makes a wheel cleaner? That's a pretty good idea, my club uses a alcohol soaked paper towel laid over the tracks and cleaning one truck at a time. Getting electrical contact is sometimes a challenge, this could alleviate the issue. Great idea about the BB btw.
I have a Kadee wheel cleaner but I prefer to use the alcohol soaked paper towel method, however I use Handi Wipes instead of paper towels. I only clean one truck at a time while holding the other truck slightly above the track so it makes contact but doesn't get any traction. And of course I move the locomotive around so that the dirt doesn't just build up on one part of the Handi Wipe.
I have dozens of Athearn blue box locomotives. I like them and have added details such as snowplows and MU hoses to them. Several of them I bought new in the 1990s and I still buy them on eBay.
My question is where exactly do I put grease and oil? I have Labelle 106 and 107. Pictures would be very helpful. Thank you.
A vast majority of my engines are Athearn or Athearn drives. (More on the drive part in a moment.) My first, non-toy engine was an Athearn. (I still have a few components of that engine as my passenger F7.) In addition, I have two more F7s; three SW7s; an SD45; an SD40-2; two GP35s. As for the drive part, I have eight Tythearn GP20s (Tyco shell on an Athearn GP35 drive) and a Bachthearn GP30 (Bachmann shell also on a GP35 drive.)
I love the Athearn BBs. They are easy to repair if the need arises. (As the OP stated, if they're old, the motor mounts probably will need replaced. I have also replaced gears multiple times) They are also easy to build. (About half the 20s started out as dummy units and I turned them to powered ones.)
For both beginners and experienced modelers, they are inexpensive.
I still use the connector clip, however.
I have some from the 1950s. They are like old friends. I've gutted a couple to use as sound dummies, and one has a replacement chassis from a train show.
You have to watch out for those couplers. You should file down the old boxes and replace them with Kadee couplers and plastic draft gear boxes. This will isolate the metal couplers from the electrically hot frame and prevent shorts.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
To date roster numbers 300 locomotives. Athearn BB, Genesis, and RTR number 175. Of the 175.....BB kits number 150. Many where purchased as undecorated kits and painted-detailed for the PRR. Some of my best runners are the original first run offering of the SD40-2. They where purchased from Trainworld NYC. If memory serves me correctly price was @17.00 for powered unit and @8.00 for a dummy unit. Also bulk ordered Kadee 5 couplers at .75 for a 4 pack. Attended a Greenberg show many years ago and wondered what all the commotion was at a particular table. When I was able to get close enough, found a person liquidating an estate. This guy had several hundred Athearn BB locomotive and freight car kits to unload. Freight car kits going for $2.00, powered locomotives for $10.00, and dummies for $5.00. That was one of the more memorable Greenberg shows I attended through the decades. My experience with Athearn products through the decades has been all good. Last purchase was a Genesis UPRR 4014 Big Boy of which I am very satisfied. I‘ve had good luck with Atlas, Kato, BLI and P2K. Unfortunately I can not speak well of Walthers locomotives. Had problems with a number of their SD70ACE locomotives resulting in my decision to not purchase any more of their products......period. I find the supply of BB kits dwindling considerably at the train shows and I will miss them. Fortunately I have accumulated a modest supply of kits that should keep me busy for years to come. As far as the new super detailed RTR locomotives/freight cars......I cringe while removing them from the container and getting them on the rails for fear of breaking something. That is not the case with built BB equipment. If you find a Athearn BB kit that interests you.....buy it. You won’t be disappointed.