I just got a great deal on an old Model Power bullet train. It's in the fictional Amtrak paint though, and I'm thinking I might want to try stripping the paint and giving it the classic JR scheme (if I can find the right paint and decals, that is!). Any recommendations on what to use for one of these sets? I'm not sure if brake fluid will eat it or not.
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Darth Santa FeAny recommendations on what to use for one of these sets? I'm not sure if brake fluid will eat it or not.
Like Mel, the Alcohol used to be my first choice. I have some 99% isopropyl.
There have been a few models, seems like Walthers in particular, that were really stubborn.
Just last night I tried, for the first time, Superclean detergent.
I was amazed at how fast and clean the paint came off.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/259148.aspx
I had a Kadee boxcar that I was attempting to paint in an aluminum color. I used Scalecoat 2 but didn't like the results I got and decided to try the Superclean.
I filled a glass jar and soaked the car 1/2 at a time. Very quickly the Scalecoat came off and after about an hour soak the original Kadee paint came off with some light brushing. There are, of course, lots of very fine details on a Kadee PS-1 boxcar.
After the initial paint came off the solids were laying in the bottom of the jar. I used a fine strainer and passed the fluid into another jar to clean it up, then continued soaking.
From now on the Superclean is going to be my first choice for stripping.
https://www.superclean.com/
It runs about $10/gallon. I found 2.5 gallon jugs for $20. locally.
Good Luck, Ed
I've had good results using Superclean, too, but my Model Power FAs and E-units pre-dated that product. In those days, I had similar good results using methyl hydrate, available at any hardware store or Home Depot. Wear suitable gloves for the latter, as it can be absorbed through the skin.
Wayne
Thanks for the tips! I also heard about using Pine-Sol, but I don't want my trains smelling like that, so I think these methods will be better.
One other "technique" I've found works well with the Superclean is in the rinsing.
I do my paint stripping near the laundry tubs. I have a short rubber hose, an old washing machine hookup hose, connected to the spigot.
When rinsing the solution off I hold my thumb over the hose end and form a "pressure-washer" effect. This way I'm able to wash away the loose paint from under ladders and roofwalks. As I said, those Kadee cars have very fine details.
I keep the bung in the drain until I'm certain that no details are missing before I drain baby's wash water.
Hope it works for you, Ed
Well, I just got them in, and guess what? The striping is all water slide decals (good job, Playart)! In fact, the paint that is on there is smooth and thin enough that I can probably get by with nothing but a light sanding in a few spots. If I do need to actually strip the paint though, I'll certainly keep all this advice in mind.
I use Scalecoat Wash Away. It works great and it is reusable. Soak the shell in the solution for about 15 minutes -- the paint will come right off. You may need to use a toothbrush to get into some crevices, but typically the paint comes out when you rinse the shell. To reuse the Wash Away, simply pour the solution back into the bottle through a strainer.
Chuck
Modeling the Motor City
91% Alcohol and Superclean work very well on the older run Bachmann, LL Proto, Atlas, Model Power, Tyco, and Walthers shells. After soaking, wash the shells with a non-moisturizing liquid soap, such as Ivory Liquid or "original" Dawn.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Thanks! I'm working on motorizing the set right now, and then I can look into doing the painting.
By the way, does anyone know the correct paint colors to use for the old Type-0 bullets? I know it's some form of white, blue and silver. Also, any idea who might make appropriate Japan Railway decals to go with it?