Do these decal renumber sets from Accurail work well? Is it really as easy as just laying the new numbers over the old numbers? It is not obvious to the eye?
I would like to order a bunch of Accurail open hopper kits in my road name, and it seems these renumber kits would be an easy way to have 12 individually numbered hoppers in my small yard.
Thanks, Jim
I bought four Armour reefers and renumbered three of them with a decal set, and they worked just fine.
Dave
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
I used them to renumber one of their Fowler boxcars for a friend, and they work great - the background paint is opaque and completely hides the original number, and the colour of it matches the car's colour perfectly.
Wayne
It's the easiest way there is to match the Accurail paint. Once the car gets a light dusting of Dullcote or something similar, it's hard to tell it isn't a factory job. Why other mfr's can't do this is a good question.
[/quote]
I renumbered four CNR Automobile boxcars and I can’t see the difference with the original paint job.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Sometimes yes, sometimes no. It depends.
The main problem with the Accurail decals is that they can be very, very fragile. They can shatter and tear quite easily. You have to treat them with kid gloves, but they also don't come off the paper easily (a lot of soaking time is needed). And one needs to use multiple applications of MicroSol or even Solvaset to get them the snug down over details (like rivets, etc.).
My club has had a half dozen or so Accurail models made for us that total close to 1000 cars. I'm on the club car committee, and I have much experience with putting these decals on.
The end result looks great on certain cars. Anything with a wood side, you can't see the decal at all and they look fantastic. The paint match is perfect and the texture on the car side hids the decal edges well. With steel cars, it's better when they're on something ribbed like a hopper or an exterior post boxcar. Where it's obvious is on a totally flat steel surface, but a little weathering can help.
One last thing...the lettering ink on the decal is rather thin. Do not rub them or they will come off the painted background. I made the mistake once of trying to pick up a decal sheet by dragging it upside down across a cutting mat with my finger. When I flipped it over, the lettering was worn off where my finger was. Fortunately, Accurail does provide plenty of extra decals.
I have never heard of these. They sound like a great product, and I am glad to hear all the positive reports about them.
.
It sure sounds like Accurail is making something many modelers really need.
A+ for them!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/decals.htm
Some older cars may still have decals available, but if you want 'em, get 'em now...
Gary
I have had both good and bad experiences with the number decals. If the decals are fresh, they seem to work well. If they have been in storage a while, they do seem to be VERY fragile and tear or shred very easily.