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Old steam loco parts help

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  • Member since
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Old steam loco parts help
Posted by Lonnie Utah on Monday, August 27, 2018 10:01 AM

So my son was running his trains this weekend and said, "Hey dad, this engine is broken." I took a look and it looks like the screw/pin for one of the drive train connecting rods has gone missing and the rod was flopping around in the breeze. 

The model is an old Model Power 4-6-2 ATSF as seen below (not our model). 

 

One one level, it doesn's seem like that tough of a fix. How do I need to go about proceeding to get this back in running order? 

(and yes, it's a old model and likely not worth fixing on it's own. That really isn't the point. He likes it and now that he's older (7) he's having to buy his own trains. So he doesn't have the budget to buy something new. Plus there's the lesson that it's sometimes better not to scrap old things just because they are old if we can fix them...)

Thanks in advance for any advice/help.

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Posted by j. c. on Monday, August 27, 2018 10:15 AM

is it a main rod or connecting rod screw ?

 

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Posted by Lonnie Utah on Monday, August 27, 2018 10:21 AM

j. c.
is it a main rod or connecting rod screw ?

 

JC,

I'll be 100% honest, I didn't really look close enough to know. If I recall correctly, I think it's a connecting rod where it comes out of the upper piston (where the 1st driver is located). 

 

I'll double check when I get home tonight. 

I figure worst case here is I hold on to it until the November train show and see if I can find someone there that can help. 

 

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Posted by garya on Monday, August 27, 2018 11:33 AM

Lonnie Utah

So my son was running his trains this weekend and said, "Hey dad, this engine is broken." I took a look and it looks like the screw/pin for one of the drive train connecting rods has gone missing and the rod was flopping around in the breeze. 

The model is an old Model Power 4-6-2 ATSF as seen below (not our model). 

 

One one level, it doesn's seem like that tough of a fix. How do I need to go about proceeding to get this back in running order? 

(and yes, it's a old model and likely not worth fixing on it's own. That really isn't the point. He likes it and now that he's older (7) he's having to buy his own trains. So he doesn't have the budget to buy something new. Plus there's the lesson that it's sometimes better not to scrap old things just because they are old if we can fix them...)

Thanks in advance for any advice/help.

 

N scale or HO?

Gary

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Posted by NVSRR on Monday, August 27, 2018 11:42 AM

Maybe as simple as a small 4-40 screw and nut  to do the job. Have to know the exact place it is missing

A pessimist sees a dark tunnel

An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel

A realist sees a frieght train

An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space

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Posted by RR_Mel on Monday, August 27, 2018 12:13 PM

If you’re needing machine screws Micro Fasteners has two good assortments for trains, steel and brass.
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
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I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by Lonnie Utah on Monday, August 27, 2018 1:18 PM

garya

N scale or HO?

 
 HO scale.
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Posted by Southgate on Monday, August 27, 2018 1:32 PM

You might start by taking a good look for the screw on the layout where it has been running. It has to be somewhere. Often the screws that fall out are on the right side of the locomotive where the rods are turning against the screw counterclockwise. 

Using a magnet in the search will only work if the screws are steel. They're usually brass, but you can check the ones still on the engine. Dan

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Posted by dstarr on Monday, August 27, 2018 2:01 PM

McMaster's Carr has a vast selection of all sorts of hardware.  They are on the web, and they publish a huge thick catalog.  Heavy Duty hardware stores may have a copy.  Such a hardware store may be able to tell you the industry standard name of the missing screw, which makes it easier to google for it. 

 

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Posted by gmpullman on Monday, August 27, 2018 2:25 PM

I'm sure you are going to need a metric shoulder screw. You "might" be able to find something from one of the large hardware supply chains but something like a crankpin screw or siderod screw would be a pretty tough call.

You might try one of the more specialized suppliers such as Greenway Products.

http://greenway-products.com/greenway-products/screws-nuts-bolts-washers/

You can carefully remove the screw from the "good" side of the locomotive and use calipers or a micrometer to get accurate measurements of the thread diameter, shoulder diameter and length.

Good Luck, Ed

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Posted by maxman on Monday, August 27, 2018 5:51 PM

If you can find the screw on a part list you may be able to get more help identifying it.

Go to this website: http://hoseeker.org/modelpower.html

Open the steam locomotive tab.

Then scroll down and open the 4-6-2 Pacific tab.

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Posted by Lonnie Utah on Tuesday, August 28, 2018 12:13 PM

So I went home last night and took a closer look at things. The part that's missing is a "pin" (for lack of a better term) that connects the small armature from the radius bar to the eccentric rod.   It can be seen on the above photo below the sand dome and between the first two drivers. If you look closely in the photo you can see the screw that holds that small armature to the radius bar. That is in place.  I'm sure someone here knows how, but I could not see an easy way to replace the missing part. 

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to reply. 

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Posted by Lonnie Utah on Tuesday, August 28, 2018 12:17 PM

maxman

If you can find the screw on a part list you may be able to get more help identifying it.

Go to this website: http://hoseeker.org/modelpower.html

Open the steam locomotive tab.

Then scroll down and open the 4-6-2 Pacific tab.

 

 
Here's the parts diagram. Looks like we're taking about part #12 or #52? But it's hard to tell from the quality of the diagram. 

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Posted by RR_Mel on Tuesday, August 28, 2018 12:33 PM

As there is a like part on the reverse side check to see what it is.  According to the diagram it’s a screw.  I doubt if it’s smaller than 00-90 and they are available in brass.  I keep a stock of 00-90, 0-80 and 0-72 brass screws, washers and nuts for just that use.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, August 28, 2018 2:53 PM

If the fastener is in the valve gear, it's very likely to be a rivet, rather than a screw.  You may be able to get suitable rivets from Bowser, and my Precision Scale catalogue shows that they have a selection of various lengths and diameters.

You could also make your own from suitably-sized brass wire.  Simply drill into the end of the wire, as close to centred as possible, with a small bit (#79, for starters), then use successively larger bits until only a thin wall of the brass is left around the hole.  Cut the hollowed piece from the wire, file the cut-end flat, and solder-on a punched-out disc of sheet brass, filed to shape and size, if necessary, to create a "head" for the rivet.

If you have the valve gear which requires the repair removed from the locomotive, you can use a small punch (any pointy tool, such as the metal tip on dividers or a draughting compass) to slightly expand the hollowed end, after it's in place and through the holes in the parts to be joined, then gently crush the expanded end, to keep the rivet in place.

You could use a regular centre-punch, or even the tip of a suitably-sized nail for that step, or even a squeeze using pliers - the objective is to expand that end enough so that the rivet can't work its way back out, but to do it in a manner that still allows the joined parts to move freely.

Wayne

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Posted by snjroy on Tuesday, August 28, 2018 3:07 PM

Hi there. It is either a rivet or a screw. A rivet can be made as explained by Wayne. A screw (hex?) might be harder to find if you don't have a well-equipped spare parts box. Do you have a local hobby shop? Maybe someone there can help you. It sounds like a 10 minute repair to me for someone with the right tool and the right screw. 

Simon

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