OK I'm looking into buying some MDC/Roundhouse Thrall Coal Gondolas for another KCS super gondola, problem is I can't find another set of undecorated ones so I'm going to have to remove some paint, make that all of the paint, what method would be the best?
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
I "swear " by Easy Lift Off. But it's expensive, and lately I can't find it anywhere.
I just recently switched to Purple Power. It's a de-greaser that can be found at most of the larger store's (Wal-Mart ) and a Gallon cost's $5.
Put the model in a container that can be filled enough to cover the model, then let it soak for about 3 day's. Take it out and scrub any residue off with a toothbrush while holding it under warm running water.
RINSE THROUGHLY ! Then let dry for a day. Then paint whatever color you need.
Rust...... It's a good thing !
In the past, I've had good results on Athearn and MDC cars using methyl hydrate, available at hardware stores or big box home improvement places. In most cases, the paint would start to peel off in minutes, although some took longer and needed some scrubbing with a toothbrush. Work in a well ventilated area, and wear nitrile gloves, as this type of alcohol can be absorbed through the skin. It's available in pints or gallons, I think.
Another option, which works on many modern-day paints, is Superclean, available at Walmart in Gallon jugs. Similar safety precautions, too, although I don't think that it's absorbed through the skin.
For both of those types of paint remover, I keep a couple of tall plastic containers, big enough to hold an 85' HO passenger car. With snap-on lids, the chemicals will keep for monthsOnce the paint has been removed, wash the model thoroughly, using dish detergent in not-too-hot water, then rinse thoroughly and allow to air-dry.
If you're uncertain which you want to use, get the smaller-size container of each, then try them - what works on one type of paint may not work on some other types, and it's always good to have options on hand when you want to start a new project.
Wayne
My concern is possibly etching the plastic or even dissolving it.
A house hold cleaner that is commonly used down here is "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner" I think it's a solvent? Perhaps it will work? I have some on hand is why I ask.
The best option is to wait for undecorated models to show up on eBay. They will, just be patient.
.
In the meantime, why not try out your painting ideas on the car you have and post pictures of the progress in Weekend Photo Fun?
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Waiting for undecorated models to show up is an option but also I have to strip the flat cars I'm going to use as underframes, I read alcohol will strip it too?
I have been using 90% rubbing alcohol with good results. Do not use 70%, it is not strong enough. It is availble at most pharmacies and grocery stores.
Put in a container, and fill to cover the car. In a couple of hours, the paint should start coming off. I scrub with on old toothbrush to move thngs along. Some areas like around gusset plates may need to be lightly scraped with a hobby knife; paint builds up more thicky in these areas.
Work in a ventilated area, and remember that 90% is flammable - no smoking or open flames nearby
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
90% alcohol is found in most drug stores next to the 70% stuff. I'd use that to fill a tennis ball sleeve, which has a lid of course.
- Douglas
I don't know about the specific cars but can comment by analogy. I acquired some older Athearn Blue Box heavyweight passenger cars to strip and convert to the UP two tone gray scheme. Obviously they were produced at different times.
I first tried denatured alcohol (mainly ethanol, which is likely more aggressive than iso-propanol / rubbing alcohol). For most cars, a soak and a toothbrush, once or twice, did the job nicely. A few were just flat stubborn. So I tried SuperClean (from Walmart) on the others and that, with one or two treatments, worked.
Since then I have done some other cars, and I presume that the best solvent (one that will not damage the plastic) may depend on the particular paint, primer or baking method on the car. I'm convinced that the different Athearn heavyweights behavior indicates that there may not be one "right" solvent, even for one manufacturer.
The denatured alcohol has the issue of solvent exposure (to you), but that is quite manageable with reasonable ventilation. The SuperClean, I conclude due to the foaming and heat, is a strong caustic solution (think Drano) so other precautions are primary.
So, some trial and error may be required.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Perhaps give it a go with the strong alcohol and see what happens?
And I figure Acetone will "eat" the plastic and so would nail polish remover, right?
NWP SWPAnd I figure Acetone will "eat" the plastic and so would nail polish remover, right?
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Figured.
Doughless I'd use that to fill a tennis ball sleeve, which has a lid of course.
....dang. How have I never thought of this? That's a fantastic idea.
I do exactly what G Paine does. Works fine for me...
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
NittanyLion Doughless I'd use that to fill a tennis ball sleeve, which has a lid of course. ....dang. How have I never thought of this? That's a fantastic idea.
I've used the same one for years. Its not long enough to hold the longest cars or locos, but I just let the end stick up out of the sleeve and drape a moist paper towel over it to keep most of the fumes contained, then flip it over and strip the other end.