I have an ATHG Santa Fe F3 Freight Diesel in the Blue/Yellow Cigar Band Scheme. Runs great, but on the engineer's side the grill is starting to come off towards the cab entry door.
Can it go back on? If yes then what type of glue should I use to fix it with? Any of you had this problem before?
Thanks for your help
If the grills are metal, CA, if styrene, one of your favorite styrene cements, I'm a bondene guy.
Don't make a mess with too much cement. Use a little bit on a microbrush or a straight pin or toothpick.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Hi,
Manufacturers have been challenged trying to keep these thin, etched metal parts from coming "unstuck" like yours has. They expand and contract at different rates than the plastic and become detached or they buckle when the bond does not "give".
I have had success with Formula 560 Canopy Cement. It dries clear and stays flexible. As Henry noted above, use a pin or very sharp tooth pick and only apply tiny dabs.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/zap-formula-560-canopy-glue-paapt56
Lately I've been using this tacky cement for things like this as well.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/go2_glue/overview/Go2-Glue.htm
Loctite GO2 Glue.
In my experience, trying to use ACC type cement can be frustrating and sometimes will leave a fogged finish on the painted surface. Styrene cement won't hold the etched steel very well.
Good luck, Ed
Thanks for the above suggestions and links, Ed.
I recently installed some KV Models etched-metal detail parts on a Stewart VO-660 switcher. I tried CA but it didn't hold particularly well, as the grill popped back off with only slight pressure from the inside of the shell - even after 24 hours. I then tried Gorilla 2-part 5-min. epoxy with much better success.
Course it will dry more rigid than the canopy cement. It's also a little more challenging to apply evenly so that you don't add either too little (and not get enough surface adhesion)...or too much (and have epoxy ooze onto the paint surface.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Contact cement, applied sparingly and following the manufacturer's directions, works well, and stands up to handling and temperature variations...
Wayne
So Formula 560 Canopy Cement is my best bet then?
After applying the glue in small amounts where it's needed, shall I lay the locomotive on it's side so the cement can dry?
I'm with Wayne on sparingly using contact cement. In fact, I've made this very repair on a few of mine with it.
The question you ask is the difference. You can let the 560 dry some and it will act a little like contact, but it will need to be held in position until set. That's rather more hard with a piece of screen wire
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Testors Glue would not hold in a sreen in too well? A 1.05 tube of Contact Cement is the one to use?
I am reviving this thread because I am having the same problem on a pair of Athearn Genesis F3A and F3B locos.
Since they were still under warranty when the problem first occurred, I sent them back to Athearn (Horizon Hobby) for repair. Not long after I received them back, the same problem reoccurred.
It looked like the repair was made with some sort of sticky glue that I was able to remove, so I tried my own repair with Alene's Tacky Glue.
That seemed to be the answer for a brief time but then the screens began to separate from the body of the locomotive once again.
ATSFGuy, were you able to find a permanent repair for your locomotive?
Has anyone else found an adhesive that holds long term?
Rich
Alton Junction
I should mention that the repairs previously done were made before I found this thread. There are some interesting suggestions here on this thread, pro and con.
Be sure the screens are absolutely flat and untwisted before you try to reattach them.
One trick with solvent contact cement is to press the parts briefly into contact, to spread the 'wet' pool of applied adhesive into thin layers on both sides, then wait until 'tacky'. You might be able to get solvent to evaporate if you blow hot air on the joint while holding it gently in position.
One of the 'loaded' cyanoacrylates might give enough surface contact with flexibility to work as well as a flexible adhesive.
The problem with epoxy is that it's not a 'thin layer' adhesive, which is why it's a poor choice for repairing 'breaks' or cracks. The blobs of a mechanically-proper bond might be too visible.
Did the 560 not get the job done?
OvermodYou might be able to get solvent to evaporate if you blow hot air on the joint while holding it gently in position.
The problem wih this method is that there is never a politician around when you need one.
I just came across this thread today, so I have not yet tried any of the suggestions.