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Does anyone have any tips on making the Walthers American Crane run well?

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  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 249 posts
Does anyone have any tips on making the Walthers American Crane run well?
Posted by JWhite on Sunday, July 1, 2018 7:50 PM

I’ve got problems getting my Walthers American Crane to run decently.  The worm gear that meshes with the gear on the axle on the front truck pulls the  truck up into the bottom of the underframe.

Does anyone have any experience with these?

 

jeff white

alma, IL

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • 1,037 posts
Posted by dragonriversteel on Monday, July 2, 2018 8:21 AM

Yup,mine ran like old school brass. Grinding noise,binding gears and jerky. Still like it.

Haven't encountered a fix to this problem.

Surely,on MR's wonderful forum. There sits quietly a electro/mechanical wizard pondering this very same problem.

Patrick

 

Fear an Ignorant Man more than a Lion- Turkish proverb

Modeling an ficticious HO scale intergrated Scrap Yard & Steel Mill Melt Shop.

Southland Industrial Railway or S.I.R for short. Enterchanging with Norfolk Southern.

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, July 2, 2018 12:08 PM

JWhite
"Does anyone have any tips on making the Walthers American Crane run well?".

I have Walthers American derrick, but mine is the unpowered version...

...but it runs very nicely behind (or in front of) any of my locomotives.

NWSL's Stanton drive (scroll down to section 2-6) might be an option:  the derrick uses trucks with a 5'6" wheelbase, while the shortest available Stanton, #1210, is 6'6".  This would at least require modification to either the derrick's underbody or to the truck mounting points.
If you contact Dave at NWSL, I'm sure that he'd be able to tell you if that Stanton drive could be used (or not).

Wayne

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • 283 posts
Posted by Lee 1234 on Monday, July 2, 2018 3:48 PM

1.  Make sure the pick-up wires to the trucks are not interfering with the gears.

2. The center screw of the trucks need to be loose enough to allow the gears to self center or the gears will bind.  

3. The worm gear needs to be lubricated to slide smoothly on the next gear.  I use ATF,  very slippery and plastics compatible.  

 

Lee

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 249 posts
Posted by JWhite on Monday, July 2, 2018 8:26 PM

Thanks. The wire was interfering with the gear. I held it in place with a drop of epoxy.

Going to lube it up and put it back together.

 

Jeff White

Alma, IL

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • 917 posts
Posted by Southgate on Monday, July 2, 2018 11:57 PM

An alternate idea: I powered up this TMI (now Tichy?) MOW setup using one motor from a 2 motor Bachmann Spectrum 44 tonner. The motor is in the tool car, built from a TMI flat, scratchbuilt shed and boom support. I used old time (MDC) passenger trucks that closely match the 44 tonner truck's wheelbase, figuring the home shops built the car from scrapped equipment. 

Here's a worm's eye view of the setup. The tool car has all wheel electrical pick up, plus 4 of the 8 on the crane are hard wired to the circuit. Note drawbar, not couplers between the two.  Weight was added to the crane also for electrical and tracking stability.

I haven't had any of the typical Spectrum gear splitting on this unit, so far. But another small mechanism could be similarly hidden in a tool car and taken out of the crane. I built this not long before the Walthers crane became available. Dan

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