Weight Help

[FRRYKid]

Probably a rehash, but here goes:

Does anyone have any good ideas for putting weight in an assembled Walthers GSC flat car? Trying to dismantle it will not be possible. The other headache is that by my math it is 2.75 oz underweight. Most of the traditional wieghts won't fit in the spots that are available. As usual, any assistance that can be provided would be welcomed.

[stokesda]

Try filling the cavities on the bottom with lead shot or steel BB's, secured in place with epoxy or some other glue. A sand/glue slurry mix might also work if the weight is right for the volume of space you have to work with.

If you're really feeling adventurous, you could try casting your own lead weights sized to fit, like doctorwayne describes in this old thread:

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/221163.aspx

EDIT: maybe someone can help me out with the clickable link... I can never get those darn things to work! 

[Link fixed by moderator - Comment: Adding a bracketed "url" and "/url" on each end of a forum thread URL is the only method I know for adding a clickable forum link to a post.]

[SeeYou190]

I remove nearly all of the underframe on my flat cars and fill it with sheet lead.

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You can buy rolls of 1/32" sheet lead fairly easily, and it cuts well with a sturdy paper cutter.

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I cut it into 1" widths and then trim it to length with normal scissors. I always fully encase the lead weight in a platic box.

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-Kevin

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[BigDaddy]

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/221163.aspx

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.  There are other low temperature heavy, moldable substances.  No experience you will have to google it.

Isn't there another current thread on weighting a flatcar?  

[Heartland Division CB&Q]

If you plan to have a load on the flat car, you may be able to hide a weight in it. 

[j. c.]

have you tried 1/4 oz mag wheel weights ?

 

[FRRYKid]

Heartland Division CB&Q

If you plan to have a load on the flat car, you may be able to hide a weight in it. 

 

The load in question is freight car wheels. (Plastic, so not much weight there.) I am turning the car into a wheel car for a car shop on my rejigged layout.

j. c.

have you tried 1/4 oz mag wheel weights ?

Are you talking about the one for vehicle tires? (Or have they come up with a new type of model weight that I haven't heard of?)

[j. c.]

yes the stick on wheel weights for mag rims.

[kasskaboose]

I used fishing weights secured with liquid nails to the underframe of gondolas, which might work for flat cars also.  To avoid the lures from being seen, I squeezed them with pliers.  Try to strike a balance with the weights by putting them on each end. 

[FRRYKid]

kasskaboose

I used fishing weights secured with liquid nails to the underframe of gondolas, which might work for flat cars also.  To avoid the lures from being seen, I squeezed them with pliers.  Try to strike a balance with the weights by putting them on each end. 

That is a thought. I am planning to put the weights in the middle of the car as that is the deepest part of the underframe. I can see what I weights I can buy at work.

[RR_Mel]

I use #8 birdshot for all of my added weight.  4ml of #8 birdshot weighs 1 ounce.

 

 

The Rivarossi Cab Forward shell below has 8 ounces of #8 birdshot for added traction.

 

 

I add the birdshot and level it into small cavities, when I have it placed is as best as I can then apply super glue slowly in small amounts until it is well anchored.

 

I've used the birdshot to add weight for 10 years without a single problem.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[zstripe]

I use fishing line lead weights for all kinds of purposes where weight is needed. They come in little 5/16'' balls with a slit through half of the diameter for crimping on fishing line. I flatten the lead into little squares that will fit in the center beam of flat cars and other things. I use Loctite GO-2 glue for adhesive, which is clear and drys clear. Which can be peeled off if need be.

The little plastic fork lift truck has 4 flattened weights in it...otherwise it could not hold up the white metal truck frame with tires/axles on it. I got the weights at a Bass Pro-shop, but I'm sure there are other places.

The Loctite Go-2 glue is like epoxy, but does not have to be mixed.

Take Care! 

Frank

 

[jrbernier]

  I will 2nd the use of bird shot - dirt cheap and secured with matte medium.

[hon30critter]

Like Kevin, I will suggest lead sheet. I buy it online, and I use 1/16" as opposed to Kevin'd 1/32". A couple of square feet will last a long time. It is easily cut into whatever size is needed. I use 'Glooze It' to keep it in place. I found that CA doesn't stick to it as well. However, if you ever want to remove the weights the CA will pop apart whereas the Glooze It is there forever.

Here is an example of the lead sheet added to a Grandt Line 23 tonner:

Dave

[doctorwayne]

FRRYKid

Does anyone have any good ideas for putting weight in an assembled Walthers GSC flat car?....

Here's one of the Walthers GSC flatcars with a load of plate steel...

The load is Plastruct ABS sheet plastic, with styrene stakes and blocking - virtually no weight to that at all.

Here's the underside of the car...

Without the plastic load, the car weighs 5.25oz., but as you can see, the custom cast weights (formerly wheel balancing weights) were inserted before the car's deck was added. 

The Walthers GSC car is, like its prototype, the cast frame with a deck added.  Other flatcars, such as the generic 50'er from Athearn, has a body casting comprised of the car's sides and ends, with the deck an integral part.  If you remove the entire frame, then add built-up styrene bolsters to which the trucks can be mounted, there's lots of room for weight...

Here's the same Athearn car, shown above, with bulkhead ends. which came with the Walthers car.  Total car weight, without a load, is 6oz....

...and with this load, about 10oz.

Since your car can't be disassembled, bird shot added into the frame cavities, and secured with epoxy or ca may be your next best option, and, of course, you can add a load of some type, too.

Wayne

[bogp40]

SeeYou190

I remove nearly all of the underframe on my flat cars and fill it with sheet lead.

.

You can buy rolls of 1/32" sheet lead fairly easily, and it cuts well with a sturdy paper cutter.

.

I cut it into 1" widths and then trim it to length with normal scissors. I always fully encase the lead weight in a platic box.

.

-Kevin

.

 

I have been using sheet lead for decades to add weight. Like Kevin I usually cut into smaller sizes to be easier to work with. I find the score, fold and finish cut works better for sizing. it may not be perfectly flat so flatten to fit for underframe. If you need odd or thicker pieces for the cavity, it can be scored and folded, for larger/ thicker it can be fan folded, hammered to exact shape. I will hold with contact cement or Goo. Some flats and other rolling stock have held weight for over 25 years and it still there. Just remember, when working with lead to wash hands, avoid touching face etc. The sheet lead is usually sold by the pound at most hardware stores, home centers will usually not cut a roll and I don't think you want to spend $60 to $80 on that large roll. A roofer may part with a foot or two off a roll for a minimal charge if at all.