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Removing Tyco box car body

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  • Member since
    March 2012
  • 52 posts
Removing Tyco box car body
Posted by RealGomer on Monday, April 30, 2018 7:44 PM

As I progress on my first build since the early 80s I've found several of my freight cars are under weight per NMRA standards. On several Tyco box cars I can't get the bodies off. The sides don't appear to have tabs but at each corner on the underbody there are posts sticking into holes in underbody. Are the bodies glued on or are there hidden tabs?

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Monday, April 30, 2018 8:11 PM

When I think of a Tyco boxcar, I think of a cast metal underframe, and a plastic body.  I recall there being tabs in the side of the underframe that go into slots in the car side.  These tabs are long and kind of line up with the bottom of the doors. If so, then GENTLY prying the sides out a bit should show evidence of the tabs.

It's only been about 50-60 years since I worked on one of these (A Model Railroader 25th anniversary car), but that's what I remember.

On t'other hand, those corner posts seem like something some teeny screws might go into.

Ed

  • Member since
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  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
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Posted by gmpullman on Monday, April 30, 2018 8:18 PM

HOseeker has Tyco boxcar instructions from 1951, 54 (Still Mantua, which used screws) and, the 1962 is below (step 9)

https://tinyurl.com/y9yaplcl

This is the 1962 drawing. The text mentions four corner clips so you may have to use a very thin blade tool to release these tabs.

https://tinyurl.com/yajdudwe

 

Hope this solves your dilemma,

Ed

  • Member since
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  • From: SE. WI.
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Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, April 30, 2018 8:23 PM

Here's what HOSeeker has for Tyco, maybe you can find what you have.

http://hoseeker.net/tyco.htm

I can't link the diagrams, just the Tyco section.  You can look for yourself.

Mike.

EDIT:  Ed beat me to it, only his links are the diagrams.  How did you do that Ed,? that usually doesn't work.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
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Posted by gmpullman on Monday, April 30, 2018 9:16 PM

mbinsewi
EDIT:  Ed beat me to it, only his links are the diagrams.  How did you do that Ed,? that usually doesn't work.

Hi, Mike

I know some folks here know how to reduce the size of a link by using html to replace the link with common text. I tried that a few times and didn't get the desired results.

Sometimes I would link to an Amazon item and there were huge links to copy.

Then I heard about "Tiny URL" and used their application.

https://tinyurl.com/

I wasn't sure about the HO seeker working so I did a quick test first and it functioned OK. TinyURL has more options like a preview but I haven't attempted those yet.

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, April 30, 2018 9:22 PM

Thanks Ed, usually when you link a diagram direct from HOseeker, they have something that blocks it, and you get an error page, saying your not allowed to do this.

Linking the a general info page works, just not diagrams.  Maybe tinyurl does something that allows it. I dunno! 

Mike.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Chamberlain, ME
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Posted by G Paine on Monday, April 30, 2018 11:13 PM

IN 2011 I posted a How To about replacing the trucks on a Tyco reefer. I removed the underfloor by inserting a thin blade screwdriver between the floor and side, then twisted and pried gentlty until the floor popped out.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/194011.aspx

Note, I need to update the images on the accompanying post on installing Kadees

George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch 

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  • From: Canada, eh?
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Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, May 1, 2018 1:33 AM

RealGomer
....The sides don't appear to have tabs but at each corner on the underbody there are posts sticking into holes in underbody. Are the bodies glued on or are there hidden tabs?

The Tyco reefers which I have had the posts at the corners, too, and they were either cemented into the holes in the floor or a very tight press fit.  I slipped a small screwdriver between the body shell and the floor, and did manage to get the floor out. 
For mine, already re-trucked and with body-mounted Kadees, the floors were sagging, and I needed to get into the body to fix the problem.  That project took on a bit of a life of its own, as you can see HERE, if you have some time to spare.

Wayne

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • 52 posts
Posted by RealGomer on Sunday, August 1, 2021 5:01 PM
Thank you one and all. I used 1/2 oz automotive wheel weights bring the cars up to spec. They have adhesive tape on side and stick like crazy. G Paine - I have that same Swift reefer in the post you mentioned. Small world, eh?

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