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Walthers Chain Link

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  • Member since
    October 2007
  • 82 posts
Walthers Chain Link
Posted by RayG8 on Friday, April 20, 2018 8:19 AM

Does anyone have any tips for installing this model. I seem to have endless issues with getting the horizontal pieces of the fence to adhere to the poles. Yes I am using the adhesive the mfg recomends.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, April 20, 2018 8:36 AM

I built my fence like I would have been the real thing.  I installed the fence posts then glued the chain link material to the posts.
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
  
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, April 20, 2018 9:13 AM

What do they recommend?  I use CA on mine.  Yes, it is a pain and does not always hold, so I have to re-do a few of the posts.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Friday, April 20, 2018 9:51 AM

I have a couple of the Walthers chain link fence kits that I know I will never use.....one reason being...they are too flimsy for what I wanted to do. So I scratch built My own. Out of 1/16'', 3/64'', 1/32'' hardened brass rod, with 1/16'', c-channel, 1/8'' I-beam, all brass silver soldered together. I wanted it to be removable and strong, which I accomplished both. The mesh is Aluminum just under 1/16'' diamond shaped that can be stretched square. It's the same material that is used for Clay sculpting. Can be cut with scissors in any size You want. An industrial chain link fence has a little bigger square pattern than home fence so it worked out great. I made roughly 800 scale feet with it and the sliding gate, actually works. The longer posts You see are for sticking it in holes drilled into the layout base which is 1/2 Homasote........all of it is removeable.

One pic' for giggles......all photos may be clicked on for larger view.

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Friday, April 20, 2018 9:54 AM

I was hoping this thread would cause you to bring out that fence and gate, Frank!

Laugh

I love it!

Mike.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Friday, April 20, 2018 9:58 AM

Thanks Mike.......I almost wasn't going to post......but I said what the heck....

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,879 posts
Posted by maxman on Friday, April 20, 2018 11:14 AM

zstripe
The mesh is Aluminum just under 1/16'' diamond shaped that can be stretched square. It's the same material that is used for Clay sculpting.

Where does one find this material?  Michaels? AC Moore?

What adheres mesh to frame?  Solder?

 

Thanks

  • Member since
    February 2017
  • 189 posts
Posted by Deane Johnson on Friday, April 20, 2018 12:35 PM

Nice job.  Here's a link I found to what I think is the material on the Hobby Lobby site.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/search/?text=aluminum+mesh

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Friday, April 20, 2018 4:25 PM

maxman

 

 
zstripe
The mesh is Aluminum just under 1/16'' diamond shaped that can be stretched square. It's the same material that is used for Clay sculpting.

 

Where does one find this material?  Michaels? AC Moore?

What adheres mesh to frame?  Solder?

 

Thanks

 

I got it direct from the Mfg'er. Mine came in flat sheets....not rolled up. I have been also using it for scenery support, just like the plaster screen method I used way back. A lot of My layout is open grid.

I used Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ for install, but now have found a better way. Solder-It now makes a Aluminum solder paste, than can be used with a soldering iron. I did a test with it and it will work fine, for My next project fence. Solder-It, also makes a Pot Metal solder paste.......great for soldering a wire to a Atlas frog.

If anyone will be using the screen and CA I highly recommend not using any accelerator on the joint, it will weaken the bond........it states that on the instructions, which a lot of people don't read. Let the CA cure on it's own. I glued mine with the parts laying on a flat surface, (wood) and put a couple small steel weights on it. I made them in 100 scale foot sections, with a jig I scratched from Birch Lattice strips.

In the link they have a section on the Home page for dealers near anyone:

http://www.amaco.com/products/wf-8050-cm-alum-1-16-sheet?ref=3

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

Edit: What I like most about the Silver bearing solder paste is the two facts that it is stronger than solder and you only need one hand to use it.....holding the soldering iron. The other hand is free to use. In the photo are scratched truck tire racks, made out of brass rod, 3/64ths, .020'', very easy to solder with the paste:

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,879 posts
Posted by maxman on Friday, April 20, 2018 4:43 PM

zstripe
I got it direct from the Mfg'er. Mine came in flat sheets.

Thanks!

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