On my current IHC 4-6-2 project I am making some loco upgrades, including removing some details and installing others. Part of this entails stripping the loco shell to start fresh with primer and paint with minimal coverage of rivets, etc.
I tried denatured alcohol first, soaking in a pie pan overnight. It barely loosened the number paint to allow scubbing it off on the loco, and barely any would come off the tender. Only a minor amount of black paint was removed, scrubbing with a toothbrush. So I switched to soaking in Super Clean (from Walmart), a strong caustic solution. It foamed the paint immediately as it reacted, and a bit of brushing after an hour loosened most paint, and a 2nd soak and brushing got it all.
This was similar to an experience with various Athearn heavyweight cars a few years ago. Some were stripped easily with denatured alcohol, some with Super Clean. It may depend on the particular primer, paint iteslf, etc. I just thought I would share this current experience since I have not seen this subject in awhile.
BTW, don't use Super Clean in the cheap disposable pie pans, unless you want to re-paint your workbench top. Actually, some newspaper caught most of it. Apparently I've forgotten my chemistry.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Good information. Thanks.
Modeling the B&M Railroad during the transition era in Lowell, MA
I've had good luck stripping paint from a number of IHC locos and Athearn freight cars with 91% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) purchased from the drug store. Isopropyl is very different than denatured alcohol. Denatured is ethyl alcohol (aka ethanol) with poisons added to keep you from drinking it. It's pretty basically what's been called corn squeezings. Chemically the iso- and ethyl alcohols are very different.
For stripping paint, the 91% isopropyl alcohol is a better choice over 70% because it softens the paint faster. Isopropyl is not caustic, so it's safer and can be used in plastic containers compared to Superclean.
When the young model railroader was asked to use the word "alcohol" in a sentence he said: "Yesterday I saw an Alco haul a freight train!"
George V.
Thanks Paul, I was going to get a jug of that. I have some old tupperware pans that I'll use.
Mike.
My You Tube
I got good results from a product called Polly S Easy-Lift-Off paint and decal remover that I used on a Rivarossi 4-8-8-4 BigBoy which a previous owner had changed to Rio Grande from the original, correct Union Pacific. I restored it to UP. The only problem with it is the vapors it gives off are really bad. However, an effective, less stinky alternative I discovered (thanks to my mother for suggesting it) is 100% acetone nail polish remover. It's cheap and works well, but I always test it in an inconspicuous spot just in case there's an adverse reaction.
I frequently use Super Clean as a soaking bath in an old Swifter Floor mop pad container. You can also use those food containers from Boston Market. These are delrin-type plastics generally impervious to alcohol 91 and Super Clean. I get my Super Clean at Walmart in the big bottle.
Cedarwoodron
Acetone will destroy some plastics. A small test swab might not hurt but a soaking definitely will.
peahrensBTW, don't use Super Clean in the cheap disposable pie pans, unless you want to re-paint your workbench top.
I have tried several varieties of "dipping/soaking" troughs for my paint removal.
I finally broke down and bought one of these. There are cheaper, folded-seam type, too, but the one shown is stainless and has TIG welded corners. Much better for our use. The edges are a little sharp so a mill file is handy to break the edge.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Warner-14-in-Stainless-Steel-Heli-Arc-Mud-Pan-161681/205052748
It is a good investment if you are going to strip any number of cars or locos. Of course, smaller scale folks have more options. I bought s couple of gallons of the Super Clean but havend done any painting projects lately. I was using 99% Isopropyl.
Thanks for these hints, Paul
Regards, Ed
Wow Ed, the good old drywall mud pan, who knew?
I know I have at least one of those around here!
mbinsewiI know I have at least one of those around here!
Yes, Mike, I've lost a few in my "tool Bermuda Triangle" over the years. One of the handy ones was plastic with metal inserts for scraping the knife. A friend of mine gave me one he made in apprentice school just after the War. I think I have it full of nuts and bolts
I used to use bread pans, too. They were just too short. This 14 incher with welded corners is the way to go. The folded ones are too hard to clean out the paint residue. And — when you're not stripping paint you can be muddin' joints!
Cheers! Ed
Hello all,
I had a similar experience with a Rivarossi Krauss-Maffei locomotive shell.
What worked for me was using a one-gallon zip-top bag (the thicker kind) and PineSol brand cleaner undiluted.
I put the shell in the bag, covered it with the cleaner and pressed out any air. For safety I also put this in a loaf pan; incase there were any leaks in the bag.
About every 12-hours I used an old toothbrush to scrub the loosening paint. Use Nitrile gloves because the undiluted cleaner can be caustic and dry out your skin.
When the solution became cloudy from the dissolved paint I changed it out for fresh.
Between solution changes I ran the shell under hot tap water and scrubbed it with the tooth brush.
Because PineSol is a household cleaner it can be disposed of down the drain.
After approximately 3 changes of solution and scrubbings the shell was down to bare plastic.
There was some residual paint left in the details of the shell that I used a dental pick to remove.
If the 91% Isopropyl Alcohol doesn't cut it (pun intended) try the PineSol.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
gmpullmanI have tried several varieties of "dipping/soaking" troughs for my paint removal. I finally broke down and bought one of these. There are cheaper, folded-seam type, too, but the one shown is stainless and has TIG welded corners. Much better for our use. The edges are a little sharp so a mill file is handy to break the edge. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Warner-14-in-Stainless-Steel-Heli-Arc-Mud-Pan-161681/205052748 It is a good investment if you are going to strip any number of cars or locos. Of course, smaller scale folks have more options. I bought s couple of gallons of the Super Clean but havend done any painting projects lately.
Pretty nifty. I needed to stop by HD today and picked up a similar but shorter one, I think 12" length (plenty long for HO), still $14. There was a $6 solid plastic one that I presume would be ok for caustic solutions but the SS one simply was too nice to pass up, as cleaning could not be easier.
It has heli-arc welded corners, nicely done.
https://www.walltools.com/wal-board-12-in-heli-arc-stainless-steel-mud-pan-sp-12-wlb-24-002.html