I have several models with handrails that do not stay in place. I have tried both epoxy and CA and end up with just a mess on the engine body and stanchions that are still loose. Is there a video on MR or Youtube that shows a successfull method of gluing handrails. Also, any suggestions on what kind of glue works best. Thanks for any suggestions.Capt. Brigg Franklin CEOPacific Cascade Railway in HO gauge
If you mean that they do not stay in the little holes, try filling the hole with modelers putty then putting the handrail back in while its still wet. You can eventually work the handrail back out of the hole if you have to later, unlike CA which pretty much destroys them.
Of course, puttying the hole could lead to a mess if you smear the putty all over the place and not just in the hole.
- Douglas
Try some Formula 560 canopy glue:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/cars-and-trucks/pit-equipment/miscellaneous-15155--1/zap-formula-560-canopy-glue-paapt56
I have been using this stuff for gluing on details, especially when made of different materials, like the "Slippery Engineering Plastic" parts and find that it makes a nice, flexible bond but you can break it apart if needed.
It will come out of the bottle a little thin but if you wait ten minutes or so it will thicken if you need it to have a little more consistancy.
Available from several sources.
Good Luck, Ed
I use Elmer's white glue for my handrails. It basicly filles the hole around the stanchions and holds them into place drying clear and excess can be wiped away with a damp towel. Also it's easy to work the stanchion loose if you ever need to remove it. It's what I use on both my n and ho scale locomotives. I have also used Arleene's Tacky glue and both have worked really well for me.
Ralph
You might want to try a microbrush for glue application. Evidently someone uses them for eyelashs too. Maybe not the best price but this shows what they look like and they come in different sizes
https://www.amazon.com/Microbrushes-Applicators-Gold-Cosmetics-Supplies/dp/B01MQQY5MZ/ref=sr_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1516240833&sr=8-8&keywords=microbrush
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Most of my diesels had metal handrails and stanchions, but these Atlas diesels had all-plastic handrails. I replaced the handrail portion with music wire, but kept the plastic stanchions....
To help keep the stanchions in place, I used ca. To make the application of it neat, I put a small puddle of glue on my glass work surface, then used the tip of an X-Acto #11 blade, dipping it into the ca, then touching the knife to the base of each stanchion at the point where it entered the walkway. Touch one side of the stanchion, then the other - this draws the ca all around the portion of the stanchion that's inserted into the hole.
Because the handrail is engineering plastic, the ca does not stick to it. However, it does stick to the inside of the holes moulded into the styrene walkways, creating an interference fit between the peg on the stanchion and the inside of the hole. The handrails can still be removed if necessary, but shouldn't drop out of their own accord.
Wayne
I use CA, applied with a micro-brush, and it works fine. Same with building tank car railings.
For ladder grabs, and everwhere I can, I glue the backside, inside the shell.
I didn't check out BigDaddy's link to see if the packages I get from my LHS are the same as from beauty supply places.
Mike.
EDIT: Yep they are about the same! Get'em where it's easiest.
My You Tube
I have been using GS Hypo cement that Jewlers use for watch crystals, Diamond setting etc. for about 15yrs. now. I build a lot of miniatures that have detail work even smaller than engine handrails and have had excellent results in using it. I have also used it on handrails, windshield wipers, etc. on engines. Takes a half hour to set/dry and if You can refrain from handling it and let it sit longer it produces a very strong bond even on Acetal Plastic, which is what engineering plastics are: I recommend having a magnifier when using it.....just getting the needle back into the nozzle can be a challenge without it. If You can thread a needle........that's what it's like.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/G-S-watch-crystal-hypo-cement-3-oz-gl411/148418788?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5633&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-51320962143&wl5=9021618&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=114221094&wl11=online&wl12=148418788
Take Care!
Frank
Many of the manufacturers build handrails out of Delrin. Microscale makes products called Microprep for preparation and Microbond for attaching that might work for you.
BigDaddy You might want to try a microbrush for glue application. Evidently someone uses them for eyelashs too. Maybe not the best price but this shows what they look like and they come in different sizes https://www.amazon.com/Microbrushes-Applicators-Gold-Cosmetics-Supplies/dp/B01MQQY5MZ/ref=sr_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1516240833&sr=8-8&keywords=microbrush
For things I may want wiggle loose down the road, sometimes caulk works. It stays flexible so if things get bumped a bit, no harm done.
A dog whisker can be a great applicator. If you get a nice big one you can trim it to the correct thickness of the hole you wish to put your adhesive in. They are a renewable resource as well.
A dog whisker is great for painting eyes on those little people.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Thank you all for your valuable suggestions. It appears almost any glue will work. The biggest problems I am having are, getting the glue inside the stanchon hole and not all around it. Also, if I put the glue on the pin at the base of all the stanchons, keeping the pins from touching anything other than their designated hole. At 73 the hands are not as steady as they use to be. Capt. Brigg Franklin CEOPacific Cascade Railway in HO gauge
Capt.BriggThe biggest problems I am having are, getting the glue inside the stanchon hole and not all around it. Also, if I put the glue on the pin at the base of all the stanchons, keeping the pins from touching anything other than their designated hole. At 73 the hands are not as steady as they use to be.
Put a bit of paper over the hole and then poke a hole in the paper. Applying the glue through the paper directly into the hole where the stanchion goes gets the glue on the paper instead of the plastic. Newspaper is nice and thin and works well for this.
Capt.BriggAlso, if I put the glue on the pin at the base of all the stanchons, keeping the pins from touching anything other than their designated hole. At 73 the hands are not as steady as they use to be.
Brigg,
One reason why I suggested a magnifier...easier to see what You're doing. I wear glasses, have Glucoma and at 75 I still can do it....takes alot of patience. My left hand shakes so I have to support it....right hand has it's days....but I'm stubborn and persistant...LOL I have a 8'' swing arm lighted adjustable magnifier that I have to use to be able to see some of the things I do.
Try putting a little tiny Bulldog on the hood of one of these trucks or handrails......surely a lot smaller than engine handrails...... or paint the detail on the hood.........trust Me get a magnifier........''never give up":
Pics' may be clicked on for a larger view.
Good Luck!
BATMAN For things I may want wiggle loose down the road, sometimes caulk works. It stays flexible so if things get bumped a bit, no harm done. A dog whisker can be a great applicator. If you get a nice big one you can trim it to the correct thickness of the hole you wish to put your adhesive in. They are a renewable resource as well. A dog whisker is great for painting eyes on those little people.
Not sure the dog feels the same way about it
Joe Staten Island West