Going to try and make my own decals. What is difference between microsol and microset. From what I can tell both do the same thing but microsol takes longer to set and is more for irregular surfaces. I wrote to company but it's been over a week with no response. Thanks in advance for info
Yes, they both do the same thing.
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These are "Decal Setting Solutions" that are used for making the decal film become soft, and partially dissolve, to adhere to a painted surface better, and snuggle down around details like rivets or panel lines on a model.
MicroSet is weak, and MicroSol is stronger. Most people prefer to use the weaker MicroSet to initiallt position the decal, then use MicroSol if needed to get the decal to work around a difficult surface.
There are even stronger options than MicroSol, which include Walthers SolvaSet, Mr Mark Softener, and Daco Decal Setting Strong.
The disadvantage to the stronger formulas is that they make the decal softer, and it is easier to damage the decal. If you are new with decals, it is always best to start with MicroSet.
I hoped this helped.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I didn't know they the same, but I won't argue the point. They are not used the same. From their website, emphasis is mine:
Micro Set prepares the surface with special wetting agents that cut the oils in new paint and converts the adhesive on the back of the decal to a stronger and longer lasting one. In addition, Micro Set slightly softens the decal film to make it more flexible so that it will conform better to the model's surface
Micro Sol completely softens the Microscale Decal, allowing it to drape down onto the surface of the model, comforming perfectly to surface irregularities without distortion. The most amazing results in seemingly impossible places are possible because Micro Sol actually makes the decal part of the painted surface. For that reason you should coat Micro Sol on for only a few seconds and then leave it alone. It does the work. Do not touch until the decal has dried, as the decal is very soft at this stage and could be easily damaged.
Micro set enables you to slide the decal into final position. If you move it back and forth too much it will tear. Micro sol softens the decal enough so it will fill into door seams, vents or the grooves between boards. If you decide you need to move the decal a little, there is a very high risk it will tear.
I use both.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Thanks to all for your replies
Excellent info, Kevin and Henry.
Just wanted to add a friendly reminder to modelers that are metalizing their passenger cars: DO NOT USE SOLVASET to apply your decals on top of Alclad-2 or any other metalizer. If you choose to do so, make sure that the it has been sealed with a good quality clear, whether from Alclad, Scale Coat, Vallego, etc.
I've been using Microset and Microsol (in that order) since the 1980's and have zero issues with paint or decals being damaged.
High Greens
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I tried using MicroSet for positioning decals but I found that it made some decals too fragile, and it often dried out before the decal was in place. My answer is to clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol first, and then use distilled water to position the decal. I find the decals are much less prone to tearing, particularly when applying pinstripes. If things get dry before the decal is in place, the distilled water seems to be able to flow under the decal much more readily than the MicroSet. I use MicroSol to settle the decal once the water has dried.
So far my method has worked very well. I don't get any silvering under the decal and the MicroSol makes the decal conform to surface details really well. I think the biggest advantage is that the water allows for a longer working time without softening the decal.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I would advise also using a coat of gloss or satin spray over the surface before adding decals, and another coat after the decal is set up and fully dry.
I've used Dull-Coat, too, but this will definitely give a rough surface and a rough, highly-weathered look to the decal. On a brick building, it's perfect.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasleyI would advise also using a coat of gloss or satin spray over the surface before adding decals, and another coat after the decal is set up and fully dry.
Yes MisterBeasley! I forgot about mentioning those cruicial steps with the gloss coat. Thanks for reminding me.