Well back into the athearn usra mikado 2-8-2 overhaul and doing practice on the pick a apart loco, anyways I come to disassemble the valvegear and I noticed the main grub srew (see photo) is a bit stubborn to get out, try as I might to get it out no good,have a change of screwdriver size no good, in the end I had to drill it out with the pin-vise and a couple of differnt size drill bits.
I'm not happy having to do this but it was the only way unfortunatley a couple of the donor mikes have tight grubs screws and I don't have spares.
So to all the locomotive repair and service men and women could you pleas point me in the direction of where to get a 1mm diameter by 5mm long grub screws please so I can complete this overhaul and the overhauls to come
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141527269@N07/27148182489/in/dateposted-friend/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141527269@N07/25053169208/in/dateposted-friend/
Thankyou
Cam
I don't know metric, but would it be something like this: http://www.mrmetric.com/M31525
?
I'm a bit confused. In the first photo, it appears you might be talking about a setscrew. In the second, a headed screw.
So, if we (I) are to help, a bit more precision is necessary:
please, using a micrometer, accurately measure the overall diameter of the screw in question.
is it headless, or does it have a head?
what is the length?
All that said/questioned, have you considered calling Athearn and asking for help with the screw replacement? I have spoken to them, and found them to be quite helpful. Or: they try to be, which is about all one can ask.
Ed
SAR 500Well back into the athearn usra mikado 2-8-2 overhaul and doing practice on the pick a apart loco...
Other than for practice, why would you disassemble the valve gear?The mechanism on those locos is very smooth running, and none of mine have ever had an issue with the valve gear or siderods, despite use on heavy trains.
NorthWest Short Line has various styles of metric fasteners, and should have something that will work.
Wayne
maxman I don't know metric, but would it be something like this: http://www.mrmetric.com/M31525 ?
Right kind of style just a slotted head and 1mm shorter but spot on otherwise
7j43k Cam I'm a bit confused. In the first photo, it appears you might be talking about a setscrew. In the second, a headed screw. So, if we (I) are to help, a bit more precision is necessary: please, using a micrometer, accurately measure the overall diameter of the screw in question. is it headless, or does it have a head? what is the length? All that said/questioned, have you considered calling Athearn and asking for help with the screw replacement? I have spoken to them, and found them to be quite helpful. Or: they try to be, which is about all one can ask. Ed
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141527269@N07/38042903595/in/dateposted-friend/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141527269@N07/27152547599/in/dateposted-friend/
Its the screw out of the boss head on the third driving wheel of the mike where all the rods meet, it not headless either I know them as a cheese knob head locally here but its all I know it as.
dimentions done with calipers (don't have micrometer just yet.... will be put on the shopping list for the next visit to the tool shop, I knew I had a funny feeling I should have bought them last time ) in mm's first
length 5mm
head diameter 1.71mm
thread diameter 1.15
in Inchs
Length 0.197
head diameter 0.067
thread diameter 0.045
their is a little 5to the right of those figure
As to athearn the though hadn't crossed my mind
doctorwayne SAR 500 Well back into the athearn usra mikado 2-8-2 overhaul and doing practice on the pick a apart loco... Other than for practice, why would you disassemble the valve gear?
SAR 500 Well back into the athearn usra mikado 2-8-2 overhaul and doing practice on the pick a apart loco...
Other than for practice, why would you disassemble the valve gear?
Ah well unless there's another way to remove and replace a split gear on the Athearn usra mike and put the NWSL one in its place without dropping the wheelset then I'm none the wiser.
But as far as I know you disassemble the valve gear drop the set of wheels with the split gear, pull one wheel off the axle. remove gear and put the NWSl in and reverse the process.
Or is thier another way to go about the process as I know no different on this one
Any ideas on how to go about would be apprecaited I need a little help on this one.
7j43kIn the first photo, it appears you might be talking about a setscrew.
I believe it looks like that because he is showing the screw after he started drilling out the head.
You can modify a screw as to length and smaller head.
Cam,
From your numbers, it sounds like you want an M1.2 x 5mm (cheese head) screw. I see one here, among other options:
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Machine-Slotted-Threaded-M1-2-0-25/dp/B00DD4FCTO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1512834711&sr=8-4&keywords=m1.2+5mm
"cheese head", huh? I have heard of "fillister head", but not that. And yet cheese head is what shows up on the link.
So, in theory, you've got your screw. Well, 10 of them.
maxman 7j43k In the first photo, it appears you might be talking about a setscrew. I believe it looks like that because he is showing the screw after he started drilling out the head.
7j43k In the first photo, it appears you might be talking about a setscrew.
Its actaully before I drill it out, I cannot get enough light on the screw in the rods so it does look like I have started drilling and shows a lot of shadow
SAR 500 ...I noticed the main grub srew (see photo) is a bit stubborn to get out...
...I noticed the main grub srew (see photo) is a bit stubborn to get out...
A grub screw is a set screw, which has no head. On consideration, I believe you are talking about the crankpin screw on the main driver. This would account for the photos of a loose screw with a (cheese)head.
Is that perhaps correct?
Some confusion could have arisen because there is, I believe, a set (grub) screw in evidence in the first photo of the locomotive. There appears to be such a thing used to attach the eccentric crank to the crankpin.
Anyway, as I noted earlier, there appears to be a source for the screw you are searching for. And for a variety of other sizes, if necessary.
7j43k Cam, From your numbers, it sounds like you want an M1.2 x 5mm (cheese head) screw. I see one here, among other options: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Machine-Slotted-Threaded-M1-2-0-25/dp/B00DD4FCTO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1512834711&sr=8-4&keywords=m1.2+5mm "cheese head", huh? I have heard of "fillister head", but not that. And yet cheese head is what shows up on the link. So, in theory, you've got your screw. Well, 10 of them. Ed
Yes that's one and a packet ordered now, havnt heard of them called that but now I have.
Thankyou ED
7j43k SAR 500 ...I noticed the main grub srew (see photo) is a bit stubborn to get out... A grub screw is a set screw, which has no head. On consideration, I believe you are talking about the crankpin screw on the main driver. This would account for the photos of a loose screw with a (cheese)head. Is that perhaps correct? Some confusion could have arisen because there is, I believe, a set (grub) screw in evidence in the first photo of the locomotive. There appears to be such a thing used to attach the eccentric crank to the crankpin. Anyway, as I noted earlier, there appears to be a source for the screw you are searching for. And for a variety of other sizes, if necessary. Ed
Yes it is the one in the crankpins and one or two mikes have stubborn ones that dont want to budge either, I should know my screws better fancy calling a cheese head a grub screw the ol eyes are playing tricks
SAR 500 doctorwayne SAR 500 Well back into the athearn usra mikado 2-8-2 overhaul and doing practice on the pick a apart loco... Other than for practice, why would you disassemble the valve gear? Ah well unless there's another way to remove and replace a split gear on the Athearn usra mike and put the NWSL one in its place without dropping the wheelset then I'm none the wiser....
Okay, good point. I've got six of those Athearn Mikes, but never a problem with the gears, so I've never really looked at how that eccentric crank is attached.
On most steam locomotives, there's a setscrew which is loosened, then the crank can be removed, along with the main- and siderods. The geared axle is then dropped, without further disassembly of the valve gear.