I used to build wooden kits like the Ambroid kit built in the December MR. I was looking forward to reading some modern tips but there weren't many. One tip I was looking for was sanding sealer. I can't find such a thing anymore. I used to use model airplane dope. That's gone the way of the dodo bird. The article shows him applying something from a can but doesn't tell what he used. I'd like to know.
GregW66
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Greg WilliamsCanterbury, NBCanadahttps://www.gregstrainyard.com/
Most of the major paint manufacturers have a sanding sealer. I have used Minwax in the past.
Basically though, whatever you are going to use for the finish coat, can be used as a sanding sealer. Every coat you put on, fills just a little more. Lightly sanding between coats smooths/levels it out. Just keep doing it until you have the desired finish, and the wood is filled in the way you want it.
Mike.
My You Tube
Pretty much repeating Mike:
When I worked with wood model railroad kits, for sanding sealer I just used whatever leftover paint I had. I stayed in brand, Floquil, in this case.
Ed
mbinsewi Most of the major paint manufacturers have a sanding sealer. I have used Minwax in the past.
I saw that on their website but it is a different world here in Canada. The local guy who sells all kinds of Minwax products looked at me funny when I asked for sanding sealer. I work in acrylic now so I'll try something from the craft store.
My LHS, which doesn't have much in the way of trains, DID have clear dope.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I would suggest a thinned Mod-Podge or similar acrylic medium.
- Kevin
Check out my shapeways creations! HOn3 and railroad items for 3D printing:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s-model-train-detail-parts
Try shellac. Available in hardware stores, dries fast, thins in alcohol. Accepts anything as a top coat. Give it a coat. Sand it a little bit, give it a second coat, and you have a good smooth surface.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
dstarrTry shellac.
That is my suggestion as well.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/primer-sealers/b-i-n-shellac-base-primer
There are several brands, Kilz, B-I-N, Bulls Eye. The pigment will help fill voids in the grain and it is easily sandable after drying.
Mod-Podge? I'm not sure if the sanding qualities of this would be very good. I think it is a PVA based adhesive, like Elmer's glue, and may not take paint too well either.
I could be wrong on that.
Good Luck, Ed
msrrkevin I would suggest a thinned Mod-Podge or similar acrylic medium.
My thought as well, but you could also use a slightly thinned dregs in an old pint of polyurethane or varnish you have lying around. The idea is to have it penetrate a bit, fix, seal, and then lightly buff as a sanding procedure prior to the finishing coat. Maybe repeat as necessary prior to that finishing procedure.
I had a similar inquiry quite some time ago and it was suggested I use water based latex (white) paint. I plan to do so on some 7 Ambroid kits I have ready to go. The old hobby shop "Sanding Sealer" worked very well in taking out the grain appearance but I also believe several coats of the finish paint with light sanding will also work.
George T. Galyon
Hi guys,
Sorry for leaving that out.
I found Minwax Sanding Sealer at Home Depot. It's acrylic, so easy water clean-up.
The paint guys there didn't know they had it.
Eric