Well, i think the title is appropriate. Im getting back into the hobby after close to 20 years off. I'd like to be able to re-use some of my older code 83 snap track, which is mostly atlas (i think).
The issue is the 20 years of oxidation on the track and switches. Using a "brite boy" takes for ever, and doesnt easily get into where a track connector would go. switches are even more difficult to clean.
Is there a quicker solution out there? Im not opposed to using chemicals. What sbout something like tarn-x?
I think Tarn-X is a chemical.
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I have kept unused switches in boxes for decade+ and had no cruddy build up. What are we talking about here? Has the track turned black? Is it something you can scrape off with a thumb nail? Is the track just not able to conduct electricity well?
As far as I know, all Atlas code 83 track was nickel-silver, so it should not build up thick oxidation like brass, steel, or copper does.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Try denatured alcohol.
Rich
Alton Junction
If stainless can rust, I don't know why nickel silver couldn't oxidize. Was this stored in a humid part of the country or a damp basement?
Assuming this is not an accumulation of household grime and tobacco smoke, quick and dirty stuff that takes off oxidation tends to be acidic and will do so unevenly, meaning your track will not be smooth.
You could try wet dry sandpaper starting at 320 and working your way to higher numbers. A brass wire brush in a dremel will take care of the rail joiner areas.
Flitz is a polish that will also work, but it will require as much elbow grease as a bright boy.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Try a mild acid like lime juice or white vinegar. Crumple up a small ball of aluminum foil and scrub the top of the Rails. Aluminum reacts with oxidization chemically forming a material that can be easily wiped off. Since aluminum is softer than nickel silver alloy. I can,t see it scratching your rails like a bright boy or other abrasions.
Depending on what the 'crud' is, either TSP (tri-sodium phosphate solution and soaking for an hour) or plain ol' vinegar. I might even try a wipe with CLR, the calcium. lime, and rust remover. But vinegar or CLR only if you know it's an oxide you are seeing.
You know obviously there's dozens of ways to clean track. Who knows which works best. I just took a piece of Flex track from my old layout from 1982. I tried my method I just shared with a tight ball of foil and lime juice. It took like 3 scrubs with the foil and much to my surprise it was black crud I saw through my magnification visor I was wearing. I followed up the cleaning with my pointer finger, a washcloth and Straight lime juice. It did come very clean. It did take a bit of effort though.
It wasn't oxidation. It was black crud like the Bears post Black crud White glove test a couple 3 months ago.
I had quite a bit of track I had carefully stored for nearly 15 years and no Alcohol would even touch cleaning it. I got a Walthers bright boy track cleaning erasor and that did work and worked well. I know some say it's abrasive, but it's a moot point if you can't get the track clean in the first place. It's been clean since I used the Walthers bright boy.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983