Looks like I will have to desolder the tender truck to change the wheels.
I bought this as you see it. Has anybody assembled a brass tender like this?
Looks like it will need new paint after replacing the wheels.
I wouldn't try any desoldering.
Have a NMRA wheel gauge handy and use a tiny bit of ACC "superglue" on the axle insulator. Then set the wheel back in place and quickly check the gauge and trueness of the wheel before it completely sets.
I'd be afraid of making a mess of the whole project by trying to apply enough heat to unsolder/resolder those truck side frames without melting the axle insulators.
A tiny dab of ACC on each of the other insulated wheel/axle joints may prevent the others from coming loose in the future.
Good Luck, Ed
I agree with Ed's solution. De-soldering things will likely de-stroy the whole shebang.
Wayne
A POSSIBILITY:
Looking at the two screws in the one photo got me wondering whether the two "sideframes" are soldered to a single plate that is then screwed onto the tender body.
If it is, and that assembly could be easily removed, it would be possible to separate the two sideframes. First you install a splice plate on the above mentioned "single plate" with several screws. Then you remove the splice plate and its screws. Then you slit "single plate" down the middle. The wheelsets can be changed because the sideframes can now be separated. You can then re-create the assembly by reinstalling the newly built spice plate. And new wheelsets.
I hope I have made myself clear.
This potential operation is nowhere near as simple as just glueing the wheelset back together. But, if it can be done, it might turn out to be rewarding at a later time.
Ed
A little more work, but another possible solution, which would allow replacement of all of the wheelsets. Good thinking!
Well I did it. Desoldered the truck side frames. Wheels are shot.
Now I need to find the right replacement wheels. Blunt axels not the pointy type.
but there was a big surprise. While the bottom of the tender and side truck support for the 5 axels was all brass the front two axel truck frame is cast solder or lead. It was all cracked and vary hard to repair. Probley should just replace it.
Next time Ill listen to Ed!
Check pages 171 and 172 of Precision Scale Co. online catalog. They show both trucks in brass and plastic and the floor as well. Might be worth replacing the whole thing. Good luck.
Jim
White metal with cracks in it gets me thinking of zinc pest. Bad!
Athean would be a source for the front truck. There's a good chance they have one in stock. Give 'em a call.
Or.
If you want to stay non-plastic, Precision Scale Models, they have the truck as HO-32204. The wheels might well be brass finish (see below).
They also list 40" blunt-axled wheel sets: HO-31916. They are unplated, which says brass finish to me. Maybe they fit. Maybe they don't. I dunno. I'll note also the 40" blunt end axle wheels sounds a lot like something that could be a diesel wheelset.
You could also use flush-end axles, and build an internal-bearing frame to hold them.
Lotsa possibilities here.
Except I think the wheels are 42".
Which, coincidentally, is the same size as to way-old Athearn outside bearing diesel wheels.
Hmmmmm......
Well, I feel like Mr. Haney from Green Acres...
"Your'e in luck, Mr. Douglas! I just happen to have one of those on the truck".
This one has the centipede side frames screwed onto the floor
For some reason this U.P. tender was mated to an L-M-B New York Central Niagara I bought many years ago.
Send me a PM with your address and it will be on its way to you.
How many times have I told my kids... Next time — listen! However, in the case of your particular tender, I think it was too far gone.
Regards, Ed
Measureing wheels,
These mesaure 0.41" where the wheel meets the rail.
so 0.41" x87 = 35.67" so 36"?
I want this to make it through the turns. How much side to side play between the truck side plate and the wheel set? If the spacing is just shy of the wheelset falling, does that help in the turns?
Thanks-
Wow Ed!
I am on it!
Ed:
You are a very generous man!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I agree...very nice gesture, Ed.
Thank you, Fellas'! Glad to help out in any way I can That tender has been collecting dust for a while. It's a miracle I could remember where it was located!
Great all around: A tender for Graymatter; Leads on parts for future reference; and more room on the shelf for Ed to put more stuff he could get along without!
Tom
dieselsmoke Check pages 171 and 172 of Precision Scale Co. online catalog. They show both trucks in brass and plastic and the floor as well. Might be worth replacing the whole thing. Good luck. Jim
Precision Scale catalogue is amazing!
I had no idea steam detail was still being made.
Sooo much to learn.
Thanks
The catalog is indeed a wonderful thing to behold. But some of the parts may not be available.
I have found that the best way to deal with Precision is direct, over the phone. THEY know what they have. And THEY know whether a part will be restocked or not. I believe there's a minimum and a shipping charge, neither of which has kept me from ordering parts.
Investment-cast parts are small-run items. When they run out, they have to decide whether it makes business sense to make more. And when to do that. The good news is that the master is "always" available for rethinking a negative decision.
But if they only sell 1 copy of a part a year, they may well ask themselves if/when they wish to cast another batch.
That said, Precision not having a part does not preclude a shop somewhere from having it.
Oh, yeah. Speaking of steam engine parts, don't forget Cal-Scale. Bowser still produces a bunch of their parts.
Northwest Short Line also makes blunt axle wheelsets in various sizes.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!