I hope I am not beating a dead horse here, but I couldn't find what I was looking for doing a community search.
Is PLEDGE FUTURE still held in high regard as a glosscoat before decalling? Is it even still available? I was unable to find it on the Pledge web site.
I did a lot of airbrushing back in the 80's, but none since then. I am slowly getting back into it and have many questions, mainly about the best thinners to use for various paints.
I was able to salvage a large number of old bottles of Floquil (lacquer, older than the enamel) by mixing with a small battery operated mixer (Micro Mark) and adding Diosol (I was fortunate enough to have an unopened pint). After "de-clumping" each bottle, I wiped down the bottle neck until it was totally clean, installed a new bottle cap (I had bought a bag of 100 of them back in the day), and stored the bottles upside down. I usually used Diosol to thin paint for shooting, but used lacquer thinner for clean up. Is that still a good idea? Is there a need for Vaseline or baby oil on the bottle top/cap?
Most of my Polly S was a solid glob in the bottle, but I salvaged a few bottles by using ammonia to to thin, then strained it into a clean bottle. I cut 2½" squares out of sandwich bags and inserted them between the cap and bottle. I didn't store them upside down because they seem to "clump" rather quickly. I'm not a fan of Acrylics, so ...
I have a nice stash of Scalecoat I (CNR colors - I model CNR, duh) that is in good shape. I can get thinner from Minute Man Models, so that's all good.
I have a few containers of Model Masters, Humbrol, and ancient AccuPaint (used a lot of that back in the day too). SO I'm open to ideas about which paint to use today. Any suggestions? I like the idea of NOT using lacquers (xylene, acetone, nahptha and all the other dangerous stuff) but I am not a fan of acrylics. Are enamels the "in" thing now?
Thanx for any ideas. I am a member of MRVP, TMTV and MMA, but find the real details of airbrushing (air pressure, thinning, distance, etc.) are often skipped over in videos. Since each type of paint has different charactaristics, that stuff is important.
Mike
These Forums would be very empty and quiet if dead horses were not flogged on a nearly daily basis.
You might might this thread from 2015 useful. "Future" is now a name from the past, as you can see. Pledge Floor Care Multi Surface Finish is evidently exactly the same stuff. Yet I have read some online statements that it is not the same or not as good.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/253187/2829452.aspx#2829452
Dave Nelson
Hi Mike!
Many modelers still use Pledge Floor Finish (they changed the name from Future) as a gloss coat before and after decaling. Using this product is not limited to model railroading, as it is used in the model car/truck/plane building as well as war gaming.
I recently used it on a tank car that I stripped, repainted and decaled (go look in the current weekend photo fun thread). I know some are applying it with a brush, but it is thin enough and passed through my airbrush with ease. I bought my bottle at Lowes for $6, and the 27 ounce bottle will last a while.
At christmas, my wife bought me a mini air compressor from TCP Global. It runs at 15-25 psi, and I was impressed at it's capability with thinned acrylics and the Pledge.
Thanks, Terry
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Just a related question, as I bought a bottle back when it was what it was, not whatever it is now.
When using this as gloss coat, can it be used under decals as well as a finish (top) coat?
Thank you,
Richard
cowman Just a related question, as I bought a bottle back when it was what it was, not whatever it is now. When using this as gloss coat, can it be used under decals as well as a finish (top) coat? Thank you, Richard
Reread PennCentral's first sentence...........
Take Care!
Frank
After airbrushing with PledgeFuture, what product/solvent is used to clean out the airbrush?
maxman After airbrushing with PledgeFuture, what product/solvent is used to clean out the airbrush?
As soon as I was done applying the Pledge, I put a little windex in the bowl and sprayed it through the airbrush to clean out anything on the needle and the tip. Immediately afterward, I used plain soap and water to clean the airbrush. You want to flush and clean your equipement BEFORE the pledge begins to set/dry.
Mike,
You asked about "other" paints. I use alot of acrylics, and the "words" for thinning is "like milk". Well, just what is "thin like milk"? Whole, 2%, 1%?? I use 3 ounces of distilled water to 5 ml of acrylic paint. It works for me, but that doesn't mean it works for everybody.
Another paint that lots of others seem to like is Vallejo, check them out.
Here is a chart I found on the internet for thinning and cleaning different types of paint....
And, on that theme, you may want to also check out the thread "The Future of Model Railroading"...
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/261566.aspx
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Oops! Sorry, missed that.
Thanks,
tstage And, on that theme, you may want to also check out the thread "The Future of Model Railroading"... http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/261566.aspx