Tenax 7R seems to have gone the way of the dodo. However, the Micro mark Same Stuff is, pretty literally, the same stuff. Procey? It's cheaper than Tenax was. There's also Plastruct Bondene which I've used and works pretty much the same. Plastruct has 2 different adhesives that, other than the color of the bottle, look identical. They are not. One is for their plastic that they use in their structural shapes, the Bondene is for styrene plastic.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Procey? It's cheaper than Tenax was.
When I first looked at the Micro-Mark site I saw a 2 oz. bottle and $17. price.
Now I see that is for TWO 2 oz. bottles. OR they have a 2 oz. "Refill" for $6. plus whatever their shipping is.
That is a little more reasonable than my first impression.
Regards, Ed
I have a habit of keeping things, so after I read this post, I looked in the box that I would put the Tenax-7r's lid when the bottle became empty one way or another. (IIRC my first bottles had lids with a brush attached). Wow I wonder what I can use all those lids for? Cheapest one has $2.69 on it up to $4.49. I'm still using out of my 2-3-11 stock at $4.49. I looked at my last in stock date of 3-2-12 still at a cost of $4.49. I do have and use a number of the above mentioned glues. I guess I need to see which ones I should over stock up on. Thanks for the infomation guys. Even bringing up an old post is still informative.
jrbernier 2-3 years ago there was a rumor going around that Tenax-7r was going off the market, as the couple who owned it was getting a divorce. This led to folks making a run on LHS's and eBay sellers listing bottles for sky-high prices. What came out of all this is unknown to me, and I have no idea of what is fact or 'Internet' myth. A few years before, Micro-Mark had someone 'reverse engineer' the product and they came out with 'Same Stuff'. They are still selling it in packs of two bottles for the price of one bottle of Tenax-7r. Micro-Mark has done similar things over the years when they cannot get the 'discount' from a manufacturer that they want. NWSL tools used to be sold through Micro-Mark, and now Micro-Mark has copies of these tools branded under their own label. I suspect the original Tenax-7r wound up in the same boat. For what it's worth, I have both Tenax-7r and Same Stuff on my workbench - and they appear similar... Jim
2-3 years ago there was a rumor going around that Tenax-7r was going off the market, as the couple who owned it was getting a divorce. This led to folks making a run on LHS's and eBay sellers listing bottles for sky-high prices. What came out of all this is unknown to me, and I have no idea of what is fact or 'Internet' myth.
A few years before, Micro-Mark had someone 'reverse engineer' the product and they came out with 'Same Stuff'. They are still selling it in packs of two bottles for the price of one bottle of Tenax-7r.
Micro-Mark has done similar things over the years when they cannot get the 'discount' from a manufacturer that they want. NWSL tools used to be sold through Micro-Mark, and now Micro-Mark has copies of these tools branded under their own label.
I suspect the original Tenax-7r wound up in the same boat. For what it's worth, I have both Tenax-7r and Same Stuff on my workbench - and they appear similar...
Jim
I see I got takin in by an old thread
rrebell I see I got takin in by an old thread
Happens to me too. Some forums have a policy against necroing but not here apparently.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
And I think those policies are mostly BAD
The information is the same. Why have 50 threads talking about the same thing get repeated over and over instead of simply adding to the existing thread? How many threads are there here on installing aa DCC decoder in a blue box loco? What does starting a new one have over adding somethign new to one of the existng ones where all the things have been explained already - if you have a new technique, add it to the existing one, so someone searchign for BB DCC installs will find allt he info in one place, not spread across dozens of threads.
"Me too" posting to old threads - that's somethign compeltely different. In the case of this thread, information on another possibel alternative cement was added Also some updated information on availability of some other alternatives previously mentioned int he old thread. I don;t think that's a bad thing.
Heck, 99% of this hobby is the same thing over and over, with new and updated techniques to accomplish certain goals If the question's already ben asked and answered, just use some common sense, not likely someone will care to see a new solution 10 years after the original post, by now the OP has either applied one of the already suggested solutions, or given up. But this thread is not particularly old, and finding adhesives is still a pretty important part of constructing models.
Maybe it's the way I read forums liek this - in date order of latest post, with any thread with unread posts filtered to the top. I read all the ones of interest to me, so when I am caught up, there generally aren;t any unread posts showign on the first page. I'm here frequently enough that it's unlikely that new posts are on the second page - I'll check if the very last thread on the first page has unread posts, AND it's below the last one that I've compeltely read. That's my indicator for particularly high volume. I don;t read every post, I only read threads that have titles of interest AND contain unread posts - the forum does a good job of differnetiating those. WHen I get to threads that no longer have unread posts, I know I've read them all. Mondays are about the onyl day I ever find a new thread with unread posts below all me read ones - and that's because new users are moderated and anything they post over the weekend doesn't get released until Monday. Always done it that way - which is why any forum software that DOESN'T differentiate threads with unread posts is one I abandon rather quickly.
rrinker And I think those policies are mostly BAD
OK. Sure. *shrugs*
riogrande5761 Jumijo I have lacquer thinner and MEK. Both are a whole lot cheaper than "model glue". Those solvents may not necessarily be substituted for all "model glues". There are also cyanoacrylates, canopy cements, Gap filling cements.
Jumijo I have lacquer thinner and MEK. Both are a whole lot cheaper than "model glue".
I have lacquer thinner and MEK. Both are a whole lot cheaper than "model glue".
When bonding styrene to styrene, they do the job more than adequately.
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Jumijo When bonding styrene to styrene, they do the job more than adequately.
riogrande5761 Jumijo When bonding styrene to styrene, they do the job more than adequately. I've found it bonds adquately as well, but mainly in situations where I can apply it from the inside with a small brush, but on the outside, it's too easy, due to the lack of viscosity to get it on surfaces and marr the paint or lettering on the model. Thats why I use different adhesives in different applications.
I agree with most of your postings on this subject thread. And I am glad it continues as it brings new light to substitute ahesives.
I was a Tenax user and I liked the way it flowed into the smallest gaps, and its speed of setiing up.I believe it would have served me well in my recent attemps to bond styrene strips int the guide rail gaps / flangeways on Peco turnouts. The stuff I used took too long to set up, allowing the styrene strip to soften ever so little with the resulting no-bonding of a portion of the strip due to its wedged toothpics losing their grip.
I liked the old Tenax 7 and have NOT discovered a replacement,...but then I have been away from that portion of the hobby since it went out of business,....and my case of the stuff all evaporated without the bottles even being opened!
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
railandsailI believe it would have served me well in my recent attemps to bond styrene strips int the guide rail gaps / flangeways on Peco turnouts. The stuff I used took too long to set up, allowing the styrene strip to soften ever so little with the resulting no-bonding of a portion of the strip due to its wedged toothpics losing their grip.
I don't know what type of plastic the flangeways are, but wouldn't a quick setting CA work better?
How did the guy in the video fasten the brass strips? or does the loop on each end hold them in place?
Mike.
My You Tube
I think he utilized both the loops on the end of the metal strips and some CA. I received some good advice on application of CA on that other tread, and now feel more confident with CA use. It might also be nice to not have to have the loops on some of those metal shims in cases where the guard rails are a bit short,...extend the wing of the shim.
Ethyl AcetateThis stuff came highly recommended on another forum, but I found it did not act as quickly as the old Tenax. Neither did the Plastruck Weld when I tried it a number of years ago.
There were those times that I liked the really quick action of the Tenax. If I recall properly I had (still have in my storage somewhere) a long capillary tube for application.
zstripe Yes it is gone....has been around 2013/14. There was a thread on it about that time on the forums. You could actually find the thread faster by using Google. A lot of distributors had quite a few cases of it until it ran out. Like a lot of other things that are no longer made. Take Care! Frank EDIT: Dave Nelson posted this on Jan 22, 2013: From the other thread I was referring to: TENAX 7R Posted by dknelson on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:51 PM For those of you who liked using Tenax as a bonding agent for styrene and have noticed it is not readily found at the LHS, I received the following email the other day from JMD Plastics of Green Bay WI Dave Nelson: As many of you may know, it has been impossible to get the highly popular TENAX 7R plastic welder for use in gluing together styrene models, sheets, etc....Ironically, this product was distributed by Hebco, just down the road from us near LaCrosse, Wisconsin. At one point, they even asked us for 10,000 pieces of styrene so they could demonstrate their product at shows they attended. Well, their e-mail, phone, etc....is no longer in service. And good luck finding a back stock of TENAX at any hobby shop or even on E-Bay! (I know--we tried---and bought up as many bottles as we could find!) That being said, we have been working with the same folks who helped us to bring our Instant Track-Tack-It and Grass-Tack-It products to you to design a replacement product. In mid December, we finalized the product after much testing and then made our initial marketing test at a recent train show in Kansas City with RESOUNDING SUCCESS, with hundreds of individual jars and cases sold! The new product, STYRENE TACK-IT, works exactly the same as Tenax, in the fact that it dries quickly (5-10 seconds), will evaporate if you forget and leave the cap off for a few days, and in truth, acts as a bonder should---"activating" or "melting" the styrene to achieve a solid bond instead of "gluing." If you mess up a joint, simply apply an additional bead of the STYRENE TACK-IT, pull the bond apart, sand it lightly, and rebond the joint properly! The retail price on individual jars (1 ounce---same as Tenax jars) is $4.75---less cost than Tenax. The retail price on a case of 12 is $57.00---also less than a case of Tenax. Hobby shops wishing to stock the product get will get their standard dealer discount on cases of 12. Call us (920-865-1219) or e-mail us for details. Individual hobbiests may purchase by the jar or case. You are receiving this information even before it goes up on our website next week! Thanks! JMD Plastics 4492 Annabell Circle Green Bay, WI 54313 www.jmdplastics.yolasite.com
Yes it is gone....has been around 2013/14. There was a thread on it about that time on the forums. You could actually find the thread faster by using Google. A lot of distributors had quite a few cases of it until it ran out. Like a lot of other things that are no longer made.
Take Care!
Frank
EDIT:
Dave Nelson posted this on Jan 22, 2013: From the other thread I was referring to:
For those of you who liked using Tenax as a bonding agent for styrene and have noticed it is not readily found at the LHS, I received the following email the other day from JMD Plastics of Green Bay WI
Dave Nelson:
As many of you may know, it has been impossible to get the highly popular TENAX 7R plastic welder for use in gluing together styrene models, sheets, etc....Ironically, this product was distributed by Hebco, just down the road from us near LaCrosse, Wisconsin. At one point, they even asked us for 10,000 pieces of styrene so they could demonstrate their product at shows they attended. Well, their e-mail, phone, etc....is no longer in service. And good luck finding a back stock of TENAX at any hobby shop or even on E-Bay! (I know--we tried---and bought up as many bottles as we could find!)
That being said, we have been working with the same folks who helped us to bring our Instant Track-Tack-It and Grass-Tack-It products to you to design a replacement product. In mid December, we finalized the product after much testing and then made our initial marketing test at a recent train show in Kansas City with RESOUNDING SUCCESS, with hundreds of individual jars and cases sold!
The new product, STYRENE TACK-IT, works exactly the same as Tenax, in the fact that it dries quickly (5-10 seconds), will evaporate if you forget and leave the cap off for a few days, and in truth, acts as a bonder should---"activating" or "melting" the styrene to achieve a solid bond instead of "gluing."
If you mess up a joint, simply apply an additional bead of the STYRENE TACK-IT, pull the bond apart, sand it lightly, and rebond the joint properly!
The retail price on individual jars (1 ounce---same as Tenax jars) is $4.75---less cost than Tenax.
The retail price on a case of 12 is $57.00---also less than a case of Tenax.
Hobby shops wishing to stock the product get will get their standard dealer discount on cases of 12. Call us (920-865-1219) or e-mail us for details.
Individual hobbiests may purchase by the jar or case.
You are receiving this information even before it goes up on our website next week!
Thanks!
JMD Plastics
4492 Annabell Circle
Green Bay, WI 54313
www.jmdplastics.yolasite.com
Found this video presentation for the Styrene Tack-it
https://youtu.be/UKut1TZxoR4
NOTE: I also found their suggested method of storage of interest,...upside down on the cap to 'presurize the cap' area to help prevent evaporation.