I purchased one of the new run Tru Line Trains C Liners and the running is jerky and cannot be run with any of my other HO locomotives. I run DC, but this locomotive runs in spurts, jerks side to side and runs like it only picks up electricity "off and on". Has anyone else experienced this condition and are there any fixes that I can do to the locomotive? I have emailed Tru Line Trains about this condition, but they haven't replied. Thank you.
Can you return it to or exchange it from the place that you bought it?
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I painted the wheel sides rust color, so it can't be returned or exchanged (the electrical pick-up is on the inside of the wheels, not where I painted rust color on the outside of the wheel). Can the DCC/DC plug be replaced with something else? Can the wiring be changed to skip the circuit board, since I run D.C.?
True Line has parts sheets on their web site. I just looked at the "exploded" view of the C Liner, the five axle arangement. The electrical pick-ups are on the outside of the wheels, just inside the side frames, on the rear 3 axle truck. Kato and Genesis are very simular.
There is a good chance you got just the slightest amount of paint on the axle, outside of the wheel, where the axle makes contact to the electrical pick-up.
The front truck axles make contact just behind the wheels, and are very simular to the older Athearn Blue Box locos.
If you don't have an "exploded" view, go to their web site, and go to the "About us / Contact us" page. There is a list a little more than half way down the page.
I hope that helps you out.
Mike
My You Tube
BOBDDS I purchased one of the new run Tru Line Trains C Liners and the running is jerky and cannot be run with any of my other HO locomotives. I run DC, but this locomotive runs in spurts, jerks side to side and runs like it only picks up electricity "off and on". Has anyone else experienced this condition and are there any fixes that I can do to the locomotive? I have emailed Tru Line Trains about this condition, but they haven't replied. Thank you.
What kind of DC throttle are you using? Not all DC throttles are compatible with dual mode DCC decoders.
Example, I use Aristo Craft Train Engineer wireless DC throttles, Just last weekend a friend brought a new Broadway loco over, it would not do anytihng on the Aristo throttle, we had to hook up and old MRC power pack.........and even then it would not run very fast because of the sound and smoke features.
Sheldon
The problem here is the wheel blackening where the contacts rub. You have two choices .... tear it down and manually clean the back of the wheels where the contacts rub, or .... do what we did .... put it on a loop of track at full speed for about fifteen minutes !
You need it set at full speed initially because the contact is so poor, it needs the momentum to keep going ! The longer it runs, the more you will notice the sputtering diminish. For the first couple minutes you might have to keep nudging it in order to keep it moving. After a good run in period allowing the contacts to wear through the blackening, the engine actually runs very smooth and slow.
As for the side to side jerking, that is caused by too much tolerance between the worm gear cover and the two pins protruding from it on top of the chassis. What I found to be an easy fix was to apply layers of masking tape on the chassis under the two pins until it just touches the bottom of the pins - this will stabilize the lateral movement of the truck. Only do one truck - front or back, doesn't matter which. Leave the other to move freely as it will become the equalizing truck.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Thank you to the above suggestions. The contacts for both trucks are on the axles, inside of the wheels where I didn't paint. I use an MRC Tech II throttle and it works with the few DC/DCC locomotives that I have (Broadway Limited, MTH, and Athearn Genesis UP "trinity of steam"). Also, I have tried to run it at full speed (while nudging it by hand), but it just goes about 3 inches, stops, goes another 3 inches, stops, and so on. I wish it was easier to contact Tru Line Trains, but I know that they are a small operation.
BOBDDS Thank you to the above suggestions. The contacts for both trucks are on the axles, inside of the wheels where I didn't paint. I use an MRC Tech II throttle and it works with the few DC/DCC locomotives that I have (Broadway Limited, MTH, and Athearn Genesis UP "trinity of steam"). Also, I have tried to run it at full speed (while nudging it by hand), but it just goes about 3 inches, stops, goes another 3 inches, stops, and so on. I wish it was easier to contact Tru Line Trains, but I know that they are a small operation.
Yup - that's exactly what it will do to start with. Be persistent in keeping it running .... it will take a lot of nudging for the first few minutes.
Trust me on this one. I did this to at least ten of them on our store's display layout after a customer complained of the same problem. After doing this myself before selling them, no more customer complaints.
As for waiting for a response from TLT .... well .... IF you get a response, don't expect them to acknowledge the problem. Again, trust me on this one ....
Thank you Mark! I just ran the C-Liner around forward and backward at full speed for several minutes each way and then with another locomotive for probably 10 minutes. Your fix was right on! After being in the hobby since the late 70's, I have not had a locomotive that was this difficult to get going. They have always ran when placed on the track (although back in the 70's, most of the locomotives weren't on par with the running qualities that we have come to expect today). Keep on training!
Hi, there -
We've had the issue with a number of the locomotives. The first thing I recommend is to bend the contacts toward the wheels a bit more. That's resolved the issue on most of the locomotives with this issue. If that doesn't resolve it, then let us know. I'm way, way behind on emails and such due to some family medical issues, but a friend pointed out this post to me. We'll be at the Springfield show next weekend, so if you're going to be there, you're welcome to bring it with you and we'll take a look.
Oh, and Mark - we screw everything up!
Seriously, we try to make sure the models work like they are supposed to, and Darren installed the decoders in every one of the C-Liners (and the couplers), and did put them on a test track but just to make sure they ran. Once we heard that there were still some issues, he started testing them more extensively, but it's a lot of work for one person amidst other jobs that pay the bills, etc. So some problems still get through. We really appreciate everybody's patience, and there's no doubt we fall short (very short). It might take a while but we really want to make it right. It's just the two of us, and it's been a really challenging few years...
Randy Hammill - True Line Trains
So, Randy. Please read my post, and clarify for me, according the exploded view of the C liner, it shows the rear truck power pick-up on the outside of the wheels, (much like Kato) and the front truck pick-ups on the inside, like an Athearn.
Am I seeing this right? or does the exploded view you have on your web site different than the OP's loco?
Mike.
I checked, and the exploded view online is the 5-axle version. The rear truck on that was manufactured by Life-Like for the DL-109 and PA. The 4-axle version has two of the same truck, which is the one on the front with the contacts inside the wheels. We just use a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend the contacts closer to the wheels. We don't disassemble it or anything.
We've seen Mark's suggestion work in the past on other projects. If he's had luck with that then it's another option if you're uncomfortable with trying to bend the contacts.
Randy